Transmission cable broke - I had to go analog!

[SV Allie Rose]

When attempting to shift the boat in gear yesterday morning, there was a significant amount of force beyond what was normal required to move the transmission from neutral into forward/reverse.

When finally saying "f*&k it" and "forcing" the lever forward, the resistance completely dissipated and I knew I messed up. Whatever the cable is that attaches to the arm on the transmission that engage forward/reverse had snapped/sheered.

FYI - Engine = Yanmar 4JH5E... not sure if that's enough info to tell what transmission I have...

Questions:
1. What is this cable called? (photo attached)
2. How do I replace it/part number? Is this an easy fix?
3. I went "analog" to get out of the marina, and manually moved the "arm" downward to put the boat into forward gear, and then back to the middle position once clear of the docks. The weather was too perfect to let this hiccup prevent a good time sailing. Docking the boat during slack tide thereafter involved utilizing the same "analog" approach, without issue. (Without issue - although I'd prefer to not have to do this again).

Of note, this "arm" moves freely and without too much resistance, so I'm curious why there was so much resistance to begin with? Could it have been bent, unknown to me? That's all I can think of.

If I can think of anything else I'll let you know. I'm happy to answer any questions and will be sure to post additional photos once fixed.

[skipperpete]

Well, it’s probably a KM 35 with a cone clutch and if the cone briefly locked into the cup and failed to release it might be the cause of you snapping the cable but there are a few other things going on with that gearbox.... like the corrosion on the shift lever and linkage pin. Also the shaft coupling seems to be needing urgent attention. First, check the oil level and condition.

[TrentePieds]

The type of cable is known as a "Bowden" cable (after the inventor). Bowden cables come in many specifications - lengths, gauges and end fittings. Take what you have out of the boat and take it as a sample to an industrial supply place and ask them to replace it.

As your tranny shifted effortlessly, your problem is obviously not with the transmission. It might be with the shift lever in your steering pedestal, so when you take the broken cable out of the boat, do verify that the shift lever works effortlessly.

Generally, Bowden cable failure are the result of failing to lubricate them occasionally. The cable can then seize within the sheath and when it does that, it WILL break if subjected to force and profanity. The only cure for a malfunctioning Bowden is replacement.

All the best :-)!

TrentePieds

[donradcliffe]

I never heard of Bowden cables. Google Morse cables instead.

[LarryDW]

Had this happen a few months ago. The pin at the end of the cable froze up in the shift lever, could rotate. When I applied pressure it broke the threaded part of the cable. Had to remove the shift lever and drive out the pin. The pin was mild steel and had corroded. I found a replacement pin made of brass/bronze at WM. I believe my cables are made by Teleflex.

[skipperpete]

The OP does indeed have a Morse cable and where it broke implies that the gearbox is at fault rather than the cable. I’ve only seen the unwelcome cone lockup on volvo gearboxes, yanmar cones occasionally have the opposite problem... cone slippage.
I had always assumed that “Bowden” cables were just the heavyweight industrial/aviation version of a Morse cable but after a deep dive into Google I stand corrected, they were originally found on bicycles and still are, but usually only as pull cables. Morse cables are a single wire core and push as well as pull, although in a previous boat that I owned with a Lister engine I had a big Bowden cable with a spiral core that operated like a Morse cable to engage and disengage the heavily loaded shift control.

[TrentePieds]

Thank you, Pete :-)

"Morse" cables are the American version of Bowden cables, and they are made by some outfit called "Tele-flex" located in Pennsylvania, I think. Like much other English manufacturing, the making of Bowden Cables was "taken over" by American firms after Hitler's war. Making Morse cables is just a hobby for Tele-flex.

Morse cables are very good, but as I said: Failure to lubricate them at (long) intervals will eventually cause them to seize and break.

TP

[Searles]

Looks like a Morse 33 cable to me ,gearboxes sometimes jam ,even control cables need to be lubed occasionally as be the head control unit and the connection at the gear box end ,it’s all about maintenance ,it’s also safety to keep gear working as designed.⚓️⛵️

[Scubaseas]

Like what everyone else said.

Looks like a KM35 (I have the same engine/gear box on my Tayana) Morse 33 is correct. I always thought Bowden cables were single wire and not necessarily water proof. Morse are usually water resistant and multi strand. The pivot point needs to be lubed every 100 hours according to Kanzaki (by memory only, I have the manual somewhere) with a drop of oil or better some hi cling grease like they use on car door hinges. Wurth HHS 9000 (or maybe HHS-K depending on where you are on the planet) is very good for this. Needle fitting on a grease gun works OK too.

You should be also to shift the lever by hand into/out of neutral and gears. Might have to put a wrench on it to help but a force of maybe 30 lbs should be sufficient. Looks like the cable fitting to transmission arm is rusted and fatigued the cable. If you can not shift/move the arm then you may indeed have an internal problem but typically they slip, not lock up.

[nwh10]

Had something very similar happen to me last week. Shifting into forward was difficult/dicey, and the handle wouldn't advance beyond the forward detent. Had to return to the marina at putt-putt speed.

The connection at the transmission was the initial suspect, but it turned out to be loose connections and a fallen out bolt in the helm control. All fixed now. Works perfectly.

Moral of the story: don't overthink it.

[mlydon]

Pull the old one and measure the length….

Amazon has ‘em
https://www.amazon.com/Seastar-Marin...92&sr=8-1&th=1

Matt

[skipperpete]

If the OP is lucky, the length in inches is often stamped on the outer casing not too far from the ends and if he wants to re use the old cable there’s still enough thread to engage if he redrills the saddle adjuster holes on the bracket….. Nah just buy a new cable, thats the “save the planet Pete” talking there.
On the “lube the cable” subject, I have had success with sliding a 2’ length of hose over the bit where the saddle sits, clamping with a little hose clamp, putting 50mls of atf ( or oil of your choice) in the hose and putting 50 psi of air into the open end…. That’ll get the oil through, pronto.
This is usually an act of desperation on catamarans with ultra long ziptied morse cables in tunnels or on flybridge cruisers with those darned 40’ cables to the engine room.

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by TrentePieds

... "Morse" cables are the American version of Bowden cables, and they are made by some outfit called "Tele-flex" ..

Teleflex began, in 1943, with one simple product: a multi-strand helical cable, and a gear, that could convert push-pull motions, into rotary motions.
In 2000, Teleflex Incorporated signed an agreement to acquire Morse Controls, a division of Imo Industries, which is a subsidiary of Colfax Corporation, both privately-held companies.
In March 2011, Teleflex sold its marine division, Teleflex Marine, to H.I.G. Capital.
In February, of 2013, Teleflex Marine announced that it is changing its name to SeaStar Solutions.
DOMETIC MARINE announced, in 2017, that it has integrated SeaStar Solutuions (formerly Teleflex) into the Dometic line of marine products.
In October 2019, SeaStar Solutions was officially rebranded as Dometic Marine, and integrated into the Dometic Group.

Dometic History ➥ https://www.dometicgroup.com/en-us/our-company/history

[donradcliffe]

I had my own shifting issues on the last return from Hawaii this summer. The helm shifter was hard to get into gear when I picked up the boat, and two days out it was beyond hard.

I disconnected the shifter cable at the transmission for a while, and still had to use a wrench on the lever. Things got worse, as the transmission started jumping out of forward. At that point I permanently removed an extension piece from the lever, put a zip tie loop on the lever for manual shifting, and over traveled the forward shifts past the detent. All was good until we approached the coast, but I had to remove the cover off the back of the engine box every time I wanted to shift.

About 4 days out, we picked up something on the prop which caused vibration in forward. The water was getting colder and the boat had crap for a facemask, so I revved the engine in forward and reverse a few times and the vibration shifted to reverse.

The wind died and we motored the last 400 miles in. Before entering the harbor, I designated an "engineer" to shift and the loudest guy on the boat as the voice relay (70 ft boat). We then practiced shifting on command a few times.

The boat has a very high aspect ratio keel and rudder, so I have to come in "hot" or the foils will stall. I got it into the slip and called for reverse, but when I revved it in reverse very little happened. Fortunately I had rigged a rear spring and gave instructions to have it the first line to be attached to the dock. I told the guy on the dock to stop me with the line, and shut down the engine.

Poking around in the very limited access gave me the reason for the hard shifting. Someone had run new battery cables just before the race, and they were interfering with the extension piece on the transmission lever. I did not want to do a major rewiring at sea, so I stayed with the manual shifting. I have also told the owner to get a diver to closely inspect the folding prop, as I expect to see some fishing line on it.

Typical delivery.

[Kruncher]

This is hands down, the best social media platform known to intelligent life, well, us humans if we can consider ourselves such?