Transmission full of seawater

[Peregrine1983]

Hi all,

We just came down to the boat after a few rough weeks hoping for a leisurely sail on our Pearson 424. Something told me to test the transmission before we cast off our mooring.

Sure enough, the boat would go in reverse but wouldn’t go into forward. This is after about an 20 minute engine warm up. I had checked engine oil, but not trans fluid this time.

After the boat wouldn’t go forward, I checked the trans fluid and the velvet drive transmission seems to be full of seawater. No milkshake, mostly just oily water… which makes me think it ran like this for a while… The engine is a Westerbeke 58 with about 4600 hours on it.

I’m suspecting internal failure of the transmission cooler (heat exchanger) leading to seawater intrusion towards the end of my last cruise from Cape Cod to NYC. I was checking trans fluid regularly during that cruise, but might not have done it the last day or two.

My plan - for today - is to shut the intake seacock and suck the water out of the trans and refill it with trans fluid. Maybe I can also remove the cooler lines from the trans and see if it will run well without the cooler.

I’m really bummed out. Wondering if it’s time to drop the cash on a repower.

Any thoughts - short term or long term are much appreciated.

[rslifkin]

I'd flush it out and see what you've got. If you test it without the cooler, keep an eye on temps. Don't let it get above 190.

Worst case if the trans has lingering issues it can likely be rebuilt or repaired.

[Peregrine1983]

Thanks, rslifkin. Sounds like a game plan for now

[Bellinghamster]

Classic oil cooler symptom - bummer! I wish there was a practical way to monitor for this occurrence other than noticing overfull or milky oil.

If it sat for awhile with water in it (more than a week or so) then corrosion could be a problem in the clutch piston bores and bearings. Not going into forward may indicate a stuck piston. If it sat significantly longer then I'd pull it, tear it apart to clean and inspect. They're pretty simple and service manuals are available free online. Clean the outside meticulously before starting. Pay attention to snap ring orientation (some are side-specific) and keep everything clean clean clean.

If you don't open it up to clean out, you'll have to change oil a couple times (more is better!) to get all the moisture and salt out as each change leave some in the sump, pump and cooler lines.

[skipperpete]

Hi Peregrine1983 does that gear oil cooler have anodes in it? It looks like you have the slimmed down version of the BW velvetdrive, having no reduction gear makes it much cheaper to overhaul. If that’s a Perkins 4-154, keep it for as long as you can, they’re a very good engine, way better than the 4-108 in every way.

[GordMay]

Evidently, it’s a Westerbeke ‘W-58'.
Specifications ➥ https://www.westerbeke.com/advanced%20specs/w58.pdf
Technical Manual ➥ https://www.westerbeke.com/technical...ech_manual.pdf

[Peregrine1983]

Thanks all for the replies.

According to other forums, this Westerbeke 58 is the same as a Perkins 4154, but I can’t confirm that.

So, yesterday I sucked the oily water out, filled it with new ATF, quickly ran the engine with the seacock closed to not allow new water in - shoved it into forward (it shifted!!) then reverse then forward and revved briefly, then neutral and shut it down. Then I changed the fluid. I did this 5 times, completely sucking out all the ATF every time. With each flush, it got slightly less milky and more pink.

I was shopping for a new trans oil cooler online when I remembered that I had a spare trans oil cooler in my spares bin, so I installed the new trans oil cooler.

I ran the engine with the seacock open - this time for a few minutes to ensure I had good seawater flow through the new cooler. Revved it in forward and reverse.

Then I did one last ATF change.

Fingers crossed… the transmission is operating totally normally.

As bellinghamster pointed out, my concern is corrosion inside the transmission.

I’m wondering if sticking an endoscope into the fluid filler cap will give me a decent sense of the level of corrosion inside. I really don’t want to remove this thing if I can avoid it. I’m hoping for one more year or so before it’s time to repower the boat.

[Peregrine1983]

To answer Skipperpete’s question about whether the cooler has an anode - yes… it does… and now I will remember to check it and change it!

[kmacdonald]

You say you "sucked" the oil out. There should be a drain plug in the bottom that will remove more of the fluid. There is usually a magnet on the drain plug that needs to be cleaned also. I use a zip lock bag to catch the fluid from my trans. Easy to get in tight places.

[Peregrine1983]

Originally Posted by kmacdonald

You say you "sucked" the oil out. There should be a drain plug in the bottom that will remove more of the fluid. There is usually a magnet on the drain plug that needs to be cleaned also. I use a zip lock bag to catch the fluid from my trans. Easy to get in tight places.

Good point. Thank you. Unlike on my engine, I can easily access the drain plug on the bottom of the trans case. I will do another fluid change and drain it from the bottom this time. I have been using a suction pump and hose to pull it out the fill cap.

[Katapult Mike]

Originally Posted by Peregrine1983

I was shopping for a new trans oil cooler online when I remembered that I had a spare trans oil cooler in my spares bin, so I installed the new trans oil cooler.

I hope someday I have a boat so well found that I have a spare trans oil cooler and it can slip my mind. That must be some spares bin you've got there!

[Peregrine1983]

Originally Posted by Katapult Mike

I hope someday I have a boat so well found that I have a spare trans oil cooler and it can slip my mind. That must be some spares bin you've got there!

Previous owners cruised her from Venezuela to Greenland and so they bought a spare of nearly every engine part small enough to fit under the starboard settee. I count my lucky stars that they were my PO's often. They did a lot of smart things.

[Peregrine1983]

Update regarding whether this oil cooler has a zinc/anode - I spoke with Sen Dure today (manufacturer) and it actually does not. The screw I removed from the side of it is a drain plug, not a spent zinc.

I'm no engineer, but I do imagine that having a zinc would extend the life of this product. Though it's small, so there may not be room for one in the housing.