Uber newb. Freedom 28 yenmar diesel

[four winds]

The red and green lamps on the AC panel? Those are for when connected to shore power. Green is good to go, red indicates a polarity reversal in the AC 110v circuit. Which means don't use it, fix it.

I'm not familiar with your brand of DC 12v panel, so just guessing here. But I don't think it has general illumination. I do think the red plastic circles around each breaker probably do light up when the breaker is switched on. Or should anyway, but a similar setup on my old factory panel is hit or miss at this.

In day hours switch position indicates "on" and in night hours the red bases do the same. The red bases are on in day hours but probably too dim to see. Remember, last two paragraphs are speculation on my part.


BTW, the tach illumination is practically impossible to see in day hours. Maybe double check that at night. Boat instruments are often dimly illuminated to help preserve night vision.

Since you did not get a water temp light test on that same switch you could have an issue with input to the switch. The center connection on the back of the switch should show 12v when the key switch is on.

[GreenMM]

This is great info, thanks so much!
We will muck our way through this.
Boat is scheduled to head to water June 7th.
More teak oil on wood today and general panel inspections.
I closed all the seacocks except the fresh water in - cooling water - to the engine and left that open.
Minor leaks at the pop up sunroof type of things. Have to deal with that too.

[GreenMM]

I'm back to boat all day today.

To do:
-Paint hull navy color.
-complete disassembly of Groco EB toilet (I made other post) and hope to find fault and or fix it
-try to remove zinc pencils and inspect / clean

We swapped in fresh coolant the other day. I could NOT remove the zinc pencils - they were in there like iron (not a good sign).
they are 24mm sized and won't budge with hammer blows on the wrench, shaking the motor sized hammer blows. No go.

Going to WD40 it and let sit for a few hours today while I work on the crapper.
The block zinc pencil looks near impossible to remove with tools - no clearance. Only hope is an offset SAE wrench in just the right spot or a swivel head 24mm socket set up. Any one else have crazy problems with these??

Our VHF radio is DOA. It will not power up for anything. Checked all the wiring I could see everywhere and looks fine / intact. No idea what's going on there.

Have 2 lights that come on with ignition key and the 3rd comes on with that toggle switch - so thank you for guidance there - all looks well as it should there.

There is 'build up' brown orange bacteria looking stuff near every union / joint on the black water 1.5 or 2" discharge hoses. Looks nasty.

My friend is making all the cushions. I made a new one for the berth over the diesel tank the other night and it went easier than I thought. They have a strong old Singer tank of a sewing machine. JoAnn fabric 1, 2, and 5" green foam pieces for internals. Grey vinyl marine grade for 'fabric'. Boat came without any cushions (they probably got stored somewhere).

We are launching boat to water this Tuesday!
Next up (after in water):
-Installing Renogy 200W solar panel kit. We may go cheaper and stick with the PWM controller that comes with it for now and think about the better MPPT controller down the road. Idea here is to hook into both marine batteries and not buy additional golf cart batteries etc...
-Installing replacement LED strip lights and tapping into existing light wiring. Gonna use the super bright efficient SMD35 or SMD50 LED strips. I put those in my motorcycle and they are fantastic.
-Finishing any more cushions that don't get completed before then.
- Converting (??) ice box cooler to fridge or getting a 12 VDC cooler or getting cold plate for Freedom Yacht factory icebox??

[cwyckham]

The VHF will probably have an internal fuse. Have you checked it?

Chris - SailMentor.com

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

Blowing the diodes usually is a result of interrupting the output of the alternator (suddenly removing the load). Turning off the "ignition" key does not do that in any wiring scheme that I have encountered. It will likely remove the source power for the regulator, and hence remove the field voltage from the alternator. This will stop the alternator from producing any power, but will not harm the diodes.

I think Cheech is off base with his warning.

Jim

Sorry guys, I just saw this old post. Yes, Brain Fart on the key thing. Thinking one thing and saying another! It applies to the battery switch.

[GreenMM]

I have not thought to look for and check an internal fuse.
I am a little suspicious as the range finder and other gauge at the helm won't power up either.
I guess the boat got put in the water today while I had to work. Apparently it powered up with the diesel to it's mooring.
I will be back to it tonight or tomorrow and putting back together the Groco toilet I broke.