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topmast · 15-01-2017, 13:21

Several models of damper plates with rubber cups. imho much superior to spring types that always rattle at low rpm .Tighten with torque wrench Bolts So easy to fall off or fracture when you are far from dock.

Obi Wan · 15-01-2017, 13:35

I wish I knew how many hours were on it. When I got it the hour meter was frozen at 606. I'm pretty sure it's got several thousand. Can't believe the cheapskate owners before me several of them) couldn't spend $10 on a new meter. I didn't notice it slipping when I bought it but shortly after wards, and then it just got steadily worse, and was worse in the winter, until finally it was unusable (in forward). The last time I had to come home in reverse.
I just got my new damper plate in. I checked all over - the best deal was from Federal Marine Transmissions, 708-352-2200. About $250. Probably give you the best deal on a transmission too. Although, as I said, I am considering a PRM-90 from A.S.A.P in UK. About $600 shipped. Not a drop-in replacement for mine.
I just took my motor in to the Kubota dealer yesterday. Compression is low and it needs corrosion control so I told them to go ahead and overhaul it as long as I have it out.
My old damper plate was very worn and had broken springs and others almost worn through. It rattles quite a bit. The new one is tight. Notice also the new one has a better design with canted edges to reduce the chaffing on the springs. I'm hoping with a new damper plate, an overhauled engine and a new transmission my motoring time will be quieter and smoother.

Obi Wan · 15-01-2017, 13:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aloha_float

I have the boat on the hard and am pulling the transmission in the next few weeks.

I recommend you replace the prop-shaft seal and packing while you have the transmission off and it's on the hard.

Aloha_float · 15-01-2017, 15:09

Awesome - many huge thanks. I am heading to the boat tomorrow.

Aloha_float · 15-01-2017, 15:10

I am installing a PSS and a new cutlass bearing as well.

Uncle Bob · 15-01-2017, 15:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by Obi Wan

Got a tip to go to ASAP in England for a replacement...they don't seem to have the ZF or a drop-in replacement, but offer a PRM-90 for $621, plus shipping. From the drawings, it appears to be 1 inch longer and 10mm drop-down (shaft offset). I guess I could raise the engine 10mm and shorten the shaft an inch - that's a huge savings (by one half) over anything else I've found so far.

Like your PRM? Anyone else with this experience?

Hi, I also had to replace the hurth and did so with a prm, yes very happy and an easy fit.

Obi Wan · 15-01-2017, 15:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by Uncle Bob

Hi, I also had to replace the hurth and did so with a prm, yes very happy and an easy fit.

Was it a PRM-90? Which model Hurth did you replace? Any specific advice?

Uncle Bob · 15-01-2017, 16:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by Obi Wan

Was it a PRM-90? Which model Hurth did you replace? Any specific advice?

HI, the hurth was a 150 and I think the PRM was a 90, the only physical differences are the overall length, approx 1 inch longer, and the change linkage is on the other side of the box to the hurth. Both of these differences were to my advantage.

The engine is a Kubota based conversion of 50 HP max at max 2900 RPM.
I will be going to the boat later today and will check the PRM model #
Cheers

Uncle Bob · 15-01-2017, 18:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by Uncle Bob

HI, the hurth was a 150 and I think the PRM was a 90, the only physical differences are the overall length, approx 1 inch longer, and the change linkage is on the other side of the box to the hurth. Both of these differences were to my advantage.

The engine is a Kubota based conversion of 50 HP max at max 2900 RPM.
I will be going to the boat later today and will check the PRM model #
Cheers

Just returned from the boat, turns out the box is a PRM 120D2.
Cheers.