Velevet Drive 72c rattle

[meridian@]

When I put it into Fwd or Reverse after say, a week of inactivity, there is a rattly noise for a few seconds. Back to Neutral, then Fwd again, and it's OK.

Seems that maybe it is losing oil somewhere, and once the pump has started up, it's OK.

As I am in Japan (Naha) and about to visit many small islands with smaller harbours, I don't want to find myself stuck somewhere with no means of repair.

I changed the oil the other day (red ATF) but it has made no difference.

Or do I just put it in Fwd every morning?

[DeepFrz]

You don't give any information on what engine you have but it could be the damper plate between the engine flywheel and transmission.

[onestepcsy37]

Check the oil level again. After I changed mine I found that, after running it a bit, it took more atf fluid. My first clue there was a problem was that it wouldnt move in reverse.

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[shakey doug]

To find gearbox true oil level run for couple of minutes while moving from fwd to rev at least 4 times, this will alow clutch packs and the cooling plumbing system to fill with oil,stop engine then immediately. Other possible causes could be shaft coupling or the flywheel to gbox drive plate. The transmission oil capacity depends the cooler and pipe work sizes and length. Not as per manual.

[meridian@]

The engine is Detroit 353. I lost drive completely about 10 years ago and had to get a new drive plate. Apart from the initial start, there is nothing to indicate a problem. I just had a mechanic look at it and of course, 'nothing to see here, move along'. He also thought that changing the oil was a bad idea. It was gear oil from the last rebuild.

[meridian@]

That's a good tip, I will check it out. The manual says 2.5 litres, which is what I put in, put there are the hoses to the cooler.

[onestepcsy37]

My manual also came up short. It's probably showing the capacity of the gearcase; they have no idea how long your cooling hoses are or the capacity of the cooler.

I hope thats your problem. Its an easy fix.

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