Volvo 2003NT series circulation pump question

[jamhass]

Yes, IMHO the housing is shot. Even small increases in clearances significantly decreases flow, leading to potential overheating. A very good machine shop might be able to weld and remachine the housing. If so, watch for any potential signs of overheat on reinstallation under all load conditions. But my guess is a new pump is in order. Regards a used pump, its hard to evaluate a used pump without disassembly, but worth a try, again watching carefully.

[baltic sailor]

About 2 month ago I got the circulation pump repaired on my VP 2003T. The price for a new one is redicules....order the spare kit from parts4engines.com, has all the necessary bits in the kit. In order to repair you need a small hydrolic press.
For all the wrong comments....the fresh water pump and the circulation pump are totaly different pumps....
The mechanic told me it was the second VP circulation pump on the day....They charge in Europe $1200 for a new pump....the mechanic in Poland charged $50 for for putting the bits into the pump.

[Russian007]

Originally Posted by jamhass

Yes, IMHO the housing is shot. Even small increases in clearances significantly decreases flow, leading to potential overheating. A very good machine shop might be able to weld and remachine the housing. If so, watch for any potential signs of overheat on reinstallation under all load conditions. But my guess is a new pump is in order. Regards a used pump, its hard to evaluate a used pump without disassembly, but worth a try, again watching carefully.

I bought a rebuilt used pump from a dealer in Nederlands called Shipoutletstore. Hope it works.

[abarrow]

Originally Posted by Russian007

The entire unit is $1800 the rebuild kit, consisting of impeller, shaft, seals and gasket is $600-- still a gouge. This company, sells a 3rd party kit (lacking the impeller) for $55. That's almost too cheap. https://www.parts4engines.com/volvo-...mp-repair-kit/

I rebuilt my 2003T circulation pump a couple of months ago using the rebuild kit from Parts4Engines. It went fine, but, don't attempt this unless you have access to a good hydraulic press. The bearings are pressed out and pressed in to the housing. In my case, one of the plastic bearings internally had shredded, maybe due to overheating.

After previously paying $1200 for an entire new pump about 6 years ago (the one that failed), I'm absolutely good with using this 3rd party kit.

I like Parts4Engines, they are reasonably priced for their 3rd party stuff, and they ship fast. Even here in Mexico the kit came in a week from the UK.

EDIT: I noticed the discussion on the pipe seals on the engine. All I can tell you is that they are a PITA to get right when you put the pump back. There's really nothing other than the pipe itself to keep them in place, so it needs to go together like a jigsaw puzzle. You just have to keep moving things around until it stops leaking.

Also, while you are at it, there is a pressure relief nipple near the top of the engine that connects to a hose that goes back to the coolant overflow. In my case, that was clogged (it only has a tiny hole in it). I suspect that was a huge part of my problem, because without that, coolant water was getting pushed out around seals and everything else. Check it.

[nofacey]

Next move - gather all required parts and head to a machine shop - they’ll have press & knowledge to disassemble, clean up & put together best it can be.

[nmccubbin]

Our 2003T overheated badly when this tiny nipple was clogged. Push a drill through it by hand. Ous was clogged with rust after engine had been unused for some time

[Russian007]

Originally Posted by abarrow

EDIT: I noticed the discussion on the pipe seals on the engine. All I can tell you is that they are a PITA to get right when you put the pump back. There's really nothing other than the pipe itself to keep them in place, so it needs to go together like a jigsaw puzzle. You just have to keep moving things around until it stops leaking.

I am not having fun with those pipes. So you checked for leaks and massaged the pipes into place with engine running? Did you use new rubber seals? Hooking back up coolant hoses is supposed to be the easy part! Jesus!

[kapnd]

Originally Posted by Russian007

I am not having fun with those pipes. So you checked for leaks and massaged the pipes into place with engine running? Did you use new rubber seals? Hooking back up coolant hoses is supposed to be the easy part! Jesus!

You’ll need to replace all the seals that were disturbed during removal, and possibly some that weren’t!
Good you got a whole pump, that part is too critical to mess around with questionable repairs.
Volvo parts are ludicrously expensive, I just bought a brand new OEM circ pump for my Cummins with gasket $220.

[Russian007]

Originally Posted by kapnd

You’ll need to replace all the seals that were disturbed during removal, and possibly some that weren’t!
Good you got a whole pump, that part is too critical to mess around with questionable repairs.
Volvo parts are ludicrously expensive, I just bought a brand new OEM circ pump for my Cummins with gasket $220.

My FW pump came with 3 new seals, I suspect the problem will be with the 2 old seals I tried to reuse. The pipes resist going in with the old seals. Local dealer wanted $9 per seal. I have a kit coming from parts4engines with a bunch of the seals for FW, RW and fuel lines. Way cheaper.

[KWISPEL]

I still have a new original pump on the shelf. If you are interested, contact me via a PM.

[Russian007]

UPDATE: Ordered and installed a rebuilt circulation pump from SOS in Netherlands. Miraculously, the Origami inspired copper coolant tubing complex from hell fit back together largely without problems. I thought it was tricking me so I relentlessly leak tested it and sea trialed it. No leaks. I also installed a new thermostat and belt. That's an easy job.
I also changed the oil and primary and secondary fuel filters. Be warned, I spent 26 minutes on that primer lever before it primed. Ridiculous.
Here's the puzzling part. I took the old fresh water pump to an auto machine shop. It had seized and the machinist pressed it out for $25. He's seen his share of pumps. So I asked the million dollar question: Why did it seize? He said "water corroded it-- water got in where it shouldn't have." Hmmmm. I showed him the attached photo, and he said the circled piece wasn't there. He said it's a plastic seal. He had a name for that part, forgot what it was. I said, "Where did it go?" He shrugged. So the remnant of that part must be somewhere in the cooling system yes? Why does it run perfectly?

[jamhass]

The missing seal might be the result of a prior bad rebuild. I wouldn't stress over it.

By the way, if this is the 2003T and it overheated, check the plastic plug (really an orifice) located in the "T" shaped pipe that connects the turbo, thermostat housing and heat exchanger. This plug has a small hole in it that can close up if overheated. It is located in the portion of the pipe leading to the turbo. Very important to check it.

Also, that plug has a tendency to slip out of position and block the pipe to the heat exchanger. Volvo had a service bulletin many years ago suggesting to slightly crimp the location of the plug to keep this from happening.

[Russian007]

Originally Posted by jamhass

The missing seal might be the result of a prior bad rebuild. I wouldn't stress over it.

By the way, if this is the 2003T and it overheated, check the plastic plug (really an orifice) located in the "T" shaped pipe that connects the turbo, thermostat housing and heat exchanger. This plug has a small hole in it that can close up if overheated. It is located in the portion of the pipe leading to the turbo. Very important to check it.

Also, that plug has a tendency to slip out of position and block the pipe to the heat exchanger. Volvo had a service bulletin many years ago suggesting to slightly crimp the location of the plug to keep this from happening.

The machinist suggest that too-- the the plastic seal was never there to begin with-- for whatever reason.
Engine is the NT.

[deblen]

12 years ago,I added a 5/16" outboard motor squeeze bulb between the primary filter and fuel tank. This allows me to refill the complete fuel system very quickly & avoid the fuel lift pump lever (Slo-o-ow) prime.

[Russian007]

The copper coolant lines are a known source of headache. A lot of posts about it. Here's a list of tips. A few from me, a few from Volvo, and a few from other posts.

Volvo 200x cooling tubes for FW circulation pump:

-Put o-ring on pipe first, not in hole if possible

-Use new o-ring any time you open up the system

-Coat o-ring with vaseline

-At a few points, the copper tubes have clips that Bolt into the block, this squeezes the compression fitting into viable connection, dunno if it matters but the bolted end was the last connection I made and it seemed to be key.

-Clean up pipe tip and hole to assure good seal

-The difficulty is these pipes are held in by geometry. So it's important to insert the pipe in the hole at 90 degrees. Some people cannot get it to work end up sawing the copper to create a nipple which is easier to line up. Then they hose clamp a flexible rubber line to the nipple. This works.

-The copper pipes aren't cheap if you ruin them

-Don't buy the o-rings from volvo unless you want to spend$. engines4less and any number of vendors sell the exact same thing for a fraction. Carry extras. They're small and cheap.