Volvo 2030 Overheating

[mrm]

Pardon my ignorant question, but, given that impeller disintegration is a very frequent occurence, why are there no coarse strainers istalled after the pump? Preferably ones with a transparent housing, similar to those protecting shower drain pumps?

Is it just saving on production costs, or is there a technical reason for not installing them?

[crzhors]

Howdy from Panama!,Your idea of a downstream loose filter is good, but the impellor should not come apart unless there is another issue...ideally. And on the subject of marketing, I work on a lot of Caribbean Cruisers boats,and it's a kick telling some of the proud stuffy owners that not only is their Beloved Volvo Penta a, -Perkins, But it's Japanese.......also a good tip on the 2010/2030/2040 Keep an out for Saltwater intrusion in the freshwater side, It'll eat the Rad Cap neck before you know it! Lot's of Epoxied Heat exchangers show up here.....Cheers

[Cotemar]

Jimbo2010,

This may help you prevent a overheating problem in the future.

I have always wanted an actual engine temp. gage instead of the factory temperature alarm.

Purchased two of these Wireless Remote Temperature Monitors.
Installed the probe on the side of the engine next to the factory alarm probe.
Taped it on with foil heating tape and a zip tie.
The Transmitter is two face taped on the port side of the engine compartment.
The Receivers are two face taped below the helm wheel.
These cost $25 to $30 each and take about 45 minutes to install.

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...tml#post654749

Mark

[Jimbo2010]

Ok guys the sage continues.

I'm still overheating, took it out today under load at 1700 rpm, white smoke started, I had a lazier heat sensor, the exhaust manifold was 190, the exhaust elbow was 165.

I up the engine to 2500 the temps rose to 205/170 respectively, then the alarm started.

I idled down to 1000rpm, after 10 minutes alarm stopped and I babied it back to the mooring.

This is starting to be a real PIA.

I removed the exhaust elbow, didn't look all that bad there was lumps and bumps of corrosion but was clear, I put some probes thru and they went fine.

I put a hose thu it when the raw water enters the the jacket it flowed with no issue.

I'm thinking since it's off to have a radiator shop boil it to clean it up.

Now I'm thinking tomorrow to remove the water pump and thermostat.

The exhaust muffler was clear but evidence of prior over heating.

Another wild idea is the exhaust hose going aft has junk in it but I doubt it.

I'm leaning to a stuck thermostat.

Any thoughts????


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[senormechanico]

It would be a simple test to remove the thermostat and go for a short putt to see if it still overheats.
You could also stick the thermostat in a pan on the stove with a thermometer to see where it opens.

[DeepFrz]

Sometimes the cover plate on the water pump gets grooved and doesn't form a tight fit. This cuts down on the water flow and could be your problem. You might be able to put it on with the outside in. I haven't tried this but have seen it recommended. If the back plate is grooved you will probably have to replace the water pump. Did you notice any change in water flow during your run?

Now, the white smoke, can indicate unburned vaporized fuel. Does the white smoke appear only after the engine gets hot?

When you put your hand in front of the exhaust is it oily?

[Jimbo2010]

Ok, now I figured it 95%.

I measured the water output at 1000rpm it was hardly anything, it is supposed to be 2.5-3 gpm.

I removed the raw water hose from the shutoff valve just above the saildrive.
the water was barely trickling out.

I tried to get several different wires etc down thru the saildrive found a hard plastic rod that worked and all of sudden a piece of muzzle shell popped out and the water shot out about 6" high.

Back to the water output an easy 3 gpm, now the sea test slowly increased rpm's to 2800 my max, went to my trusty infrared gun 185 all around the exhaust and block.

Here's the shocker the exhaust elbow was only 90-95, I had to put my hand on it to be certain.

So now I'm running nice and cool for over 30 minutes under load.

But there is still a very faint white smoke haze in the exhaust?????

Not to be compared to the smoke from before when running hot.

Originally Posted by DeepFrz

Now, the white smoke, can indicate unburned vaporized fuel. Does the white smoke appear only after the engine gets hot?

When you put your hand in front of the exhaust is it oily?

Yes when hot, I try my hand in the exhaust today.


Why would I still see that?


.

[senormechanico]

Betcha it's steam.
I've got a good running MD2020 and I see it too.

[DeepFrz]

It could have been there before and you never noticed it. It could mean you need the injectors tuned up. It could also mean that you are leaking a little engine coolant into a cylinder. Keep a close eye on the engine coolant to see if the level drops.

Maybe one of the engine guru's will comment.

Gee, one already did...

[Jimbo2010]

I did a pressure test on the coolant system so I think I have no internal leaks like a head gasket rtc.

I put my under under the exhaust water no smell of diesel of feel of it.

So I expect steam that as you said didn't notice before.