Volvo 2030 water pump problem

[Sid at SailAway]

Some background. We're headed south and are now in Daytona Beach. Earlier today I noticed the temp start to rise on my port engine followed by a change in sound. I knew I had lost water flow and shut her down. I pulled the hose off the thru hull from the saildrive and got no flow. I have a 70 psi washdown pump onboard so I used that to backflush and blow out whatever was causing the clog. That worked. Started engine and no flow. Shut down and figured the impellor was shot because of the previous lack of flow. It was shot. Replaced it. I noticed when I replaced it that the cover had a circular groove in it. Not very deep, but a groove none the less. Fired the engine up and no flow.

At this point started tracking down any other blockage. Found none. The last thing I did was take out the discharge hose from the water pump and fire up the engine. Nothing was coming out the discharge port. So, I think I need a new pump. If the grooved cover plate is the cause of non flow that would be nice to know for future reference. I did notice a small leak at the seal too. So, new pump is in order.

Here's my question, I cannot locate the Johnson part number for their pump that fits the 2030. A Volvo pump is 460 bucks. I know the Johnson is cheaper if I had the number. Does anyone have the correct part number? Any help would be appreciated as I really don't want to leave Daytona on one engine..

[DougR]

Couple of things to consider:
- perhaps your back flush didn't really clean the water passages, but just moved things around a bit....does water flow freely at the inlet side of the pump with the hose removed from the pump? Maybe an impellor blade moved backward in the hose and is blocking the hose......I've seen it many times...

- will water flow from the pump with the valve open and the cover plate removed? Or is the pump above the outside water level?

- you can buy just a new cover plate and gasket for the pump from VP, no need to buy the complete pump..

- you can make a new cover plate from just about any other brand of cover plate that's close in size...use the original cover as a template to drill the old hole pattern in the new plate.

DougR

[downunder]

Have heard of Volvo installations using larger size direct feed from sea cock direct to motor and not using saildrive water feed.

Feedback is that water pump lasts much, much longer.

[Sid at SailAway]

When held below water level all hoses flow freely. Here's the routing for hose the hose. It leaves the saildrive thru hull and travels up to the raw water strainer inlet port. From there a hose comes from the outlet port of the strainer and runs to the intake of the raw water pump. No blockage at all. With the intake hose attached to the pump and the outlet hose removed from the pump, no water flow when engine is running. I give it 30 seconds to get from the thru hull to the pump (more then enough time) and then shut down to save the impellor. Could that small groove really keep the pump from pumping? I did find the two impellor vanes but made no difference to pump operation of course.

I'll check on the replacing the cover for now, but would really like a new pump, if only for a spare. That Johnson part number would be nice!

[Sid at SailAway]

I also turned the plate around and installed it. Still no water, but that side of the cover plate had numbers and Volvo logo stamped on it. Maybe that affected the suction?

[DougR]

Could there be an air leak in the strainer? Try bypassing the strainer and go directly from the valve to the pump.......

DougR

[Sid at SailAway]

I'll try that in the morning..

[DavidLGCrawford]

I doubt the groove in the cover plate is affecting you. Mine had similar and worked fine. Of course I don't know how big that groove is...
1. If you remove the inlet side of the pump and open the seacock, does water come out? If not, I suspect something is still plugged before the pump.
2. Take pump cover off, can you rotate the impellor? If you can then your pump shaft or gears on back of it are broken. If you can't turn it, start engine and see that it rotates.
3a. Take the hose off at the strainer outlet and put into bucket of water. Take pump outlet off at the heat exchanger and stick into bucket. When you start engine does water get pumped through? If so you pump works. ( Is it going in and out the correct hoses?)
3b. If 3a worked: reattach strainer outlet and take hose from saildrive outlet and stick in bucket. If you get pumping then the pump and strainer are good, problem likely in saildrive. If no, likely strainer issue.

[kellymj]

I have a cat with the same engines. I have rebuilt these before. If you try to turn the engine with impeller cover off, does the pump shaft/impeller turn? There is nut on the back of the gear that holds shaft to the gear that could have loosened.

If you have a leak at the seal, you need to rebuild the pump. Start by taking it off, 4 bolts and just pull, dont worry about oil level, none will come out. There is a seal on the back plate of the pump, watch out for it. You can buy the Rebuild kits from Depco pumps. It's much less expensive than new. Check shaft for scoring, light scoring can be cleaned with Emory cloth, new shaft is not expensive (also Depco) or you could try a speedy sleeve. If you take the pump to a machine shop it should be about 30 minute job. You can find info online to Rebuild yourself.

[Ivansgarage]

MD 2030 A, 18-3080, 9-45702 ..... Water Pump Kit for Volvo Penta, Johnson Pump 09-45825 - Sierra.

Here is a Amazon link for Johnson Pumps
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...words=09-45825

[Ivansgarage]

Here another link

https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...l_58iofvd9sz_b

[Sid at SailAway]

Problem solved! Thanks to everyone for the quick responses. Here's what I did this morning. Removed pump cover and bumped engine to verify impeller rotation. All good there. Bypassed the strainer and run hose directly from thru hull to pump. Now it's flowing like new. That points right at the strainer as the source of the problem. Broke out a mirror to inspect the strainer as it's hard to see the bottom and sides. I was looking for a crack. What I found was the hose clamps on the inlet side were tight on the hose but were below the port. This caused the air leak and thus no suction.

When I was removing all the hoses to check for blockages this hose I had to remove and replace by feel. I thought I had the hose clamps slid all the up into proper position on the inlet port, but I was short. So, now I'm back in business headed south for the Nasa Causeway Bridge to hide out from the front coming through.

I ordered two impellers and a repair kit to have on hand for the next time. I'm just glad it was something simple. Thanks again!

[Sid at SailAway]

I'd like to put "solved" in the title, but not sure how. Moderator?

[jamhass]

1. Do you know for sure t
the pump is turning? My last failure was the plastic drive gear.

2. Is the cam properly secured? I have had the securing screw fail.

[Kerry1]

Originally Posted by Sid at SailAway

When held below water level all hoses flow freely. Here's the routing for hose the hose. It leaves the saildrive thru hull and travels up to the raw water strainer inlet port. From there a hose comes from the outlet port of the strainer and runs to the intake of the raw water pump. No blockage at all. With the intake hose attached to the pump and the outlet hose removed from the pump, no water flow when engine is running. I give it 30 seconds to get from the thru hull to the pump (more then enough time) and then shut down to save the impellor. Could that small groove really keep the pump from pumping? I did find the two impellor vanes but made no difference to pump operation of course.

I'll check on the replacing the cover for now, but would really like a new pump, if only for a spare. That Johnson part number would be nice!

I have a Volvo D2-55 and the raw water setup sounds similar. One thing that might warrant a check is a seal gone at the strainer or loose cap leaking air into system at the raw water strainer. On ours the strainer is at the highest point of the system so the lid of the strainer can have a hole in it and it wont leak seawater but will allow air into the system. The water pump has to draw water up from the sail drive inlet right up to the strainer which is above tappet cover height and then down to the raw water pump so any air entering the system may prevent the pump from priming which may be exacerbated by your groove in the faceplate of the pump which will also make the pump harder to prime. Once a system has drained the effects of little problems are magnified.

Oh ok I see you got to it and I feel great that my diagnosis wasn't half bad! Happy sailing...