Volvo D1-20f raw water pump

[ben373]

I am looking at rebuilding my water pump">raw water pump. Engine hours are 730, 5 years old and there is a small drip of salt watet just started from the pump Seal.

My question is I have found 2 kits. The difference is, one contains a new shaft with seals and bearing etc. And one no shaft.

Is it likely I will need a new shaft?

I am in the water with limited tools.

I know the answer is to pull it apart and inspect but the time waiting for the parts would be an issue.

Anyone with experience have an idea.
Dougr

Another point I still have the original exhaust manifold. All seems fine but at what hours would this normally need replacing?

Thanks in advance

[Compass790]

DougR is yr man, If he doesn't chime in you could PM him.
I doubt Volvo makes the raw water pumps but I dont know.
Suspect they will be Johnsons in which case you can buy seals, bearings to fit frm a mechanical seal outfit or a bearing supply place.
I have rebuilt them but only on Yanmar & Lister but when they quote me parts prices I say you should be wearing a mask, cowboy hat & have a belt with 2 revolvers on.
Ok update that with hoodie, mask & Glock.
Anyway all seals & bearings have dimensions so measure them & try & source elsewhere if $$ are an issue.
Good questions you ask, try & source a wkshop manual as well.
I made my own ss exhaust elbow as the Yanmar one is a bad design & very expensive as yrs will be. Try exhaust elbow or HDI marine for ss alternatives bearing in mind I don't know yr engine.
Good luck.

[more]

Originally Posted by ben373

I am looking at rebuilding my raw water pump. Engine hours are 730, 5 years old and there is a small drip of salt watet just started from the pump Seal.

My question is I have found 2 kits. The difference is, one contains a new shaft with seals and bearing etc. And one no shaft.


Thanks in advance

https://www.jmpusamarine.com/categor...cooling-pumps/

for volvopenta d2-55 this is producer. and cheaper is bay new from situation when you need shaft.
For volvo penta D2-55 i pay new pump 250€ from Italy with shiping and vat.

From https://www.volvopentashop.com/epc/en-US find your serial number of Pump. and ask by serial number JMP parts or new pump.
and i annually have 600-700 hours

[Newf1]

I have the D1-30F. I changed a seal in my raw water pump due to a small leak at around 1400hr and the shaft was fine. I now have 2360hrs and all OK. This does not mean that "your" shaft will be fine but it's more than likely just the seal. I believe the 20F and the 30F has the same seal.

[Newf1]

The front seal is fairly easy to replace and can be done without removing the pump if you have easy access. I popped the pump off when I did mine as it was quick and easy to come off. I attached a couple of photos for reference. Hope this helps.

[bobgarrett]

As NewF1 says that drip can probably be fixed by simply replacing the front seal. The pump does not need to come off. You can get the seal out by removing the impeller front plate, removing the impellor and then use some circlip pliers (the type that open at the end when you squeeze). Slip the ends between the inner and outer parts of the seal gently open them and pull forward. Get the new seal first so you can see what I mean. The seal will slide along the shaft and drop off. Then carefully slide a new one on. Push it back with something that pushes it all the way round simultaneously.

[chasfgr]

I have no experience of Volvo marine engines, but I would guarantee they buy in the raw water pumps - of which about 80% are manufactured by Johnson.
The Yanmar parts cost x8 the price of generic Johnson parts.
I bought a replacement raw water pump (in a motor factors) for a very similar price to the Yanmar replacement parts - having two pumps means a 2-3' minutes work to change the pump instead of about 80' to rbuild the thing.
Curiously, I've gone 8 years without a leak, that's about 3000 hours.

[Squanderbucks]

Water pump and parts are what consider items that need first priority in spare parts locker. If you are only doing coastal cruising then just parts may be fine. Seals, impellers, gaskets if needed. But if you do any long distance cruising especially to remote places - I like to expand my list of necessary parts in the locker to a complete pump. Shafts can score or shear off sometimes and when you can’t get parts or like you are in a time crunch. Nothing worse than ruining a trip for lack of parts especially on parts known to more regular failure.

When seals fail and detected early there is little chance of bearing damage. But as the pump functions normally if not routinely inspected and the pump will continue to run until the salt water gets in the bearings, they heat up, seize and the shaft fractures.

[Glasshopper]

I've overhauled my d1-30 seawater pp twice. Never replaced the shaft or bearings. Now 2400hrs.
Easiest to remove entire pp from the engine and do it on the bench. As i recall, the shaft needs to come out and, this method allowed me to reuse the seals, because i didnt scratch them in the process. The rusted out spring on mine has been replaced w a rubber o-ring as packing. Works fine. Reassemble on the bench using silicone (non-acetal) instead of the paper gasket. Then a few drops of olive oil in thru an end nozzle to prelube the impeller & rotate prior to reinstalling into the engine.
Theres a YBW thread on most of the above procedure.
Regards, Bert.