Volvo D2 75F Waste-gate stuck

[Downeaster]

Originally Posted by pbmurray7

I bought mine but it came from China and was $895.00. Where did you get yours?

dwdiesel.com They even seem to keep them stocked.

[pbmurray7]

Thanks!!

[northcaptain]

I found out this thread while waking up with a D2-75 not capable of going over 2100 rpm this morning. No vibration, no fuel clogging but while en route, i dismantle the air filter and found the rotor stuck

I am guilty of having run the engine at 2000 rpm for so long...

Not sure if i can repair it myself but with the cue many have provided, i see there are sources for turbo at industrial price (not stellar Volvo prices). If people having purchased turbo could pm the exact part and source it would be appreciated since i'm far from home.

Also i would like to replace the elbow if i need to remove the turbo, all sources are out of stock

[pbmurray7]

You can get a stainless steel elbow at HDI Marine Elbows for about $400.00. Highly recommend replacing the cast iron one with stainless.

You can get a new turbo from EHE Parts Inc., www.ehep
Price is $900.00 for the entire turbo.

That being said, you should be able to take your existing turbo off and get it cleaned at any good machine shop and it will work fine. I bought a new turbo and the guys at Hinckley Yacht Services in Southwest Harbor said there was nothing wrong with the original. After running at 2000 rpm for several years, I now run mainly at 2400 rpm. When I do run at 2000 rpm, burning 1.3 gph, every hour I run the engine full throttle for a minute to burn any excess build up. 2400 rpm burn goes to 1.8 gph. Keep in mind, the waste gate will only open when going to full throttle and the engine does not develop full 75 hp until getting above 2800 rpm. That being said, if the waste gate is stuck closed, according to Hinckley, even at full throttle you cannot damage the engine. Hope this helps!

[skipperpete]

You can PROBABLY get your existing turbo up and running again provided it only has a stuck turbine. If there is oil leaking on the compressor side the job gets a lot harder and is best done by a turbo repair tech.
The centre section of the turbo is called the cartridge and the “stuck rotor shaft” problem usually occurs when the turbine wheel in the cartridge gets stuck due to reduced tip clearance in the turbine scroll housing, usually from corrosion on the cast iron housing but sometimes from carbon buildup. All you need to do is take off the turbo and unbolt the turbine scroll housing then clean out the carbon buildup or corrosion very carefully.
If the turbine wheel or the compressor is damaged then the turbo needs a new cartridge or a rebuild.
I’m sure there will be YouTube videos that will make the scroll removal process much clearer.
Loosen up the wastegate and put hi temp antiseize on the shaft and on the scroll flange face.

[northcaptain]

thank you so much guys (pbmurray and skipperpete) for the helpful informations. Indeed IHI has the part but backorder or no stock. I already wrote them.

I will wait till my passage is over and when i can have the boat for several day docked to dismantle the turbo and check.

fair winds

[Downeaster]

Originally Posted by pbmurray7

After running at 2000 rpm for several years, I now run mainly at 2400 rpm. When I do run at 2000 rpm, burning 1.3 gph, every hour I run the engine full throttle for a minute to burn any excess build up. 2400 rpm burn goes to 1.8 gph. Keep in mind, the waste gate will only open when going to full throttle and the engine does not develop full 75 hp until getting above 2800 rpm. That being said, if the waste gate is stuck closed, according to Hinckley, even at full throttle you cannot damage the engine. Hope this helps!

Great info on this topic. Thank you, pbmurray.

As I noted in threads above, I replaced the turbo and elbow this year. I've tried running at 2400 but burns so much more fuel. I suppose the alternative is to run at 2000 - do the full throttle for a minute but also remove the elbow to clean out the area around the waste gate. As long as the elbow bolts are kept anti-seized (very important) its a quick job. I'm thinking maybe once every 100 hours.

[southseasailor2]

Hi. Happens all the time. This will be connected to your hose issue. With the wastegate stuck closed the turbo over pressures and can cause the hose to blow off. Worse though, if you continually run the engine with it stuck you can do major harm to the engine as it over boosts.
To free the waste gate. Remove the exhaust elbow. detach the actuator rod from the wastegate. Spray a product called carbo clean onto the waste gate shaft. Work the waste gate back and forth until it it totally free moving. Spray corrosion x onto the shaft. reassemble

[Alexmass]

We need to find a good mechanic. I had a similar case, about the same problem with fuel. An acquaintance who works in a yacht and boat rental company fixed everything. I don’t know what he did, I don’t know much about the fuel system.

thank you so much guys (pbmurray and skipperpete) for the helpful informations. Indeed IHI has the part but backorder or no stock. I already wrote them

It was in Croatia last summer, I'm a Croat myself, I don't write very well in english

[Aurora Dufour]

I have Engine Volvo D2 75 with 400 hours and waste gate stuck ! Volvo service says to buy new turbine set ! The part is not available here in Sardinia and I must return the boat to my mooring port which is 40 hours of motoring away
My question is : can I use the engine with no risks of further damage ?
Can I use engine below 2000 rpm ?

[ohthetrees]

Originally Posted by Aurora Dufour

I have Engine Volvo D2 75 with 400 hours and waste gate stuck ! Volvo service says to buy new turbine set ! The part is not available here in Sardinia and I must return the boat to my mooring port which is 40 hours of motoring away
My question is : can I use the engine with no risks of further damage ?
Can I use engine below 2000 rpm ?

I think it is very unlikely that you will damage anything running at below 2000 RPM has very little boost is developed at that RPM.

You can probably fix the problem for free by carefully cleaning carbon buildup from the turbo.

Good luck.

[DDW]

I know this is an old and long running thread, but I thought I would add my limited knowledge.

The wastegate will stick if the boat is not used frequently. It is not disassembleable from the exhaust housing, both ends of the shaft are welded. Sometimes you can free it by putting a wrench on the lever and working it back and forth. Lurbicant can help free it, but will not prevent subsequent corrosion as the housing runs very hot. The boost the turbo provides is modest, the wastegate only seems to open at fairly high rpm. The turbo rpm is determined by exhaust flow, exhaust flow is dependent on both rpm and load. Prop absorption curves being what they are, you are not going to have very high engine load at 2000 rpm (if properly pitched) so the wast gate is only brought into play at higher loads/rpm.

The D2-55 is the same engine without the turbo. Along with the Volvo distributor, we went through every single part in the engine, to see if injectors, pump, pistons, rods, valves, cam, etc. might be different. They are not - every part except the exhaust (turbo, elbow, etc) are identical part numbers. This was confirmed by a mechanic who is very familiar with the engine used in land based applications such as generators, loaders, ag equipment, etc. He confirmed that the only difference between turbo and non-turbo engines is the setting of the fuel rack stop on the governor. In a non boat application that might have to be adjusted as you can overload the engine and bog it. But in a boat, the prop sets the load and properly pitched, it cannot be overloaded.

The exhaust elbow for the non turbo version bolts right on, including the aftermarket SS versions (but buy the B version even if you have an A engine, the bolt pattern was different in A turbo vs non turbo, the turbo having the B engine pattern). You need to remove the aftercooler and plug the oil feed and return. Also the outlet is 2 1/2" so and adapter for the exhaust hose.

In one of the posts above there was reference to the oil drain hole in the aftercooler leaking oil. This is a feature of the engine, any oil making it past the turbo seals (these are labyrinth seals and so never perfect) will blow out this hole. Volvo service has confirmed this to me.

I investigated all this before getting the turbo rebuilt the last time, I've got a stuck wastegate again and am about to switch it over. I do not want to run the engine faster than 2000 rpm just for the sake of the turbo.

[Downeaster]

Thanks for the great info, DDW. So you are going to convert to a D2-55 if I understand correctly? It makes a lot of sense to me as well unless you really need that extra boost at high RPM.

[DDW]

I intend to, yes. I should have said buy the C-F version of exhaust elbow, not B. A and B use a different pattern and gasket between turbo and non turbo, C non turbo is the same as A and B turbo. I hope that isn't too confusing.

I'm checking again on the prices, a new turbo is about $900. The new SS exhaust elbow from HDI is $430, you'd need two Volvo hoses for the 55 to bypass the aftercooler, the air intake box and filter are the same just rotated, then fabricate blocking plates for the oil feed and return and an exhaust reducer.

Looking again at the torque absorption curves, the 55 engine can power the 75 prop right up to about 2600 or 2700 rpm (provided the 75 prop was pitched for 3000 max). So it might not be necessary to change the prop pitch, if you don't run firewalled much. I can change the pitch with a screw on my Autostream so I can experiment.

[Downeaster]

Originally Posted by DDW

I intend to, yes. I should have said buy the C-F version of exhaust elbow, not B. A and B use a different pattern and gasket between turbo and non turbo, C non turbo is the same as A and B turbo. I hope that isn't too confusing.

I'm checking again on the prices, a new turbo is about $900. The new SS exhaust elbow from HDI is $430, you'd need two Volvo hoses for the 55 to bypass the aftercooler, the air intake box and filter are the same just rotated, then fabricate blocking plates for the oil feed and return and an exhaust reducer.

Looking again at the torque absorption curves, the 55 engine can power the 75 prop right up to about 2600 or 2700 rpm (provided the 75 prop was pitched for 3000 max). So it might not be necessary to change the prop pitch, if you don't run firewalled much. I can change the pitch with a screw on my Autostream so I can experiment.

Very interesting, DDW. Keep us posted!