Volvo Penta 2040 Engine Problems

[Tom and Maje]

Originally Posted by rwidman

He wasn't qualified then, was he?

You know you might get a couple dozen guesses on a web forum but that's all anyone can do - guess. To find the source, one has to be there and examine the engine. Look to see where the oil is coming from.

Well he was certified by Volvo. Quite frankly, the advice we're getting here is better than what we got from the mechanic.

Maje

[model 10]

Those damn oil drain hoses on the bottom of the oil pan are a big cause of engine failures.

[rwidman]

Originally Posted by Tom and Maje

Well he was certified by Volvo. Quite frankly, the advice we're getting here is better than what we got from the mechanic.

Maje

Well then best of luck.

[rwidman]

Originally Posted by DeepFrz

........... I wouldn't think it could be a freeze plug. I think a freeze plug would have drained your coolant, not your oil sump.

Well it has nothing to do with freezing, it's just a plug to fill a hole left by the casting process but you are correct, it (they) are located in the cooling system passages, not where oil would be found.

That's a good example of the advice found on web forums mixed in with the accurate advice.

[Cheechako]

Frankly.... if it's leaking that fast, you need to use your hands and eye's while it is running at anchor or the dock. It's not voodoo or magic. I find having some Toilet paper and fishing around the engine with that, checking it often you can see leaks fast. A leak that fast of fresh oil may not be dark colored but will stain the TP.
First, with engine not running, dab the TP all under the engine, checking visually between each dab. If you find a suspect spot , start dabbing from the bottom up along what looks to be any route that the oil will run down from. When you dab clean, move back down or look visually with a strong light.
Start the engine and repeat. Careful of pulleys!!

[Tom and Maje]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Frankly.... if it's leaking that fast, you need to use your hands and eye's while it is running at anchor or the dock. It's not voodoo or magic. I find having some Toilet paper and fishing around the engine with that, checking it often you can see leaks fast. A leak that fast of fresh oil may not be dark colored but will stain the TP.
First, with engine not running, dab the TP all under the engine, checking visually between each dab. If you find a suspect spot , start dabbing from the bottom up along what looks to be any route that the oil will run down from. When you dab clean, move back down or look visually with a strong light.
Start the engine and repeat. Careful of pulleys!!

Thanks, we'll do that tomorrow early afternoon.

Maje

[model 10]

Originally Posted by rwidman

Well it has nothing to do with freezing, it's just a plug to fill a hole left by the casting process but you are correct, it (they) are located in the cooling system passages, not where oil would be found.

That's a good example of the advice found on web forums mixed in with the accurate advice.

Isn't that so true. Soft plugs can be found in the ends of crankshafts to keep the oil on the inside.

[colemj]

Originally Posted by rwidman

Well it has nothing to do with freezing, it's just a plug to fill a hole left by the casting process but you are correct, it (they) are located in the cooling system passages, not where oil would be found.

That's a good example of the advice found on web forums mixed in with the accurate advice.

Sorry, I used freeze plug as a generic term for any plugged passage from casting/milling.

On that engine, there definitely are plugs on the oil side that have been known to breach and dump oil.

Mark

[atoll]

you might check the oil pan/sump casing below the jabesco salt water pump.
it would not be the first time I have seen pinholes rusted through the steel casing,caused by a small salt water leak from worn o-rings on the pump

[Kijit]

The MD2040 does have "plugs" of a sort in the oil channel in the block. Mine and at least one other that I know of had a similar problem. The way I found mine was to put oil in the engine, start it up, and then take a look to see where the oil was flowing out. In my case, it was flowing out at a very good clip. Mine was coming out of the hole in the picture (next to the blue tape). I ordered a plug from a Volvo shop (actually two because there are two different sizes), pressed (hammered) it in, and no more trouble. Not sure if this is what your problem is, but worth looking at.



Gerhard

[shipleft]

One quart low doesn't represent an immediate danger to the engine. Is it possible it is leaking from a corroded oil pan? Does salt water ever get close to the oil pan? Rear crankshaft seal? I see more and more power units with mixed metal components ie:cast iron blocks or transmission bodies mixed with cast aluminum oil pans,bell-housings, or rear-seal components that just disappear as anodes when faced with salt water. They break all the galvanic rules!

[rwidman]

Originally Posted by shipleft

One quart low doesn't represent an immediate danger to the engine.

No it doesn't but if the engine leaks a quart of oil in a couple hours, the expectation is it will leak another and another, etc. At some point the engine won't get proper lubrication and it will fail, big time.

The entire Internet discussion is pretty useless. Clean up the engine and bilge, run the engine, shut it off and look to see where the oil is. Follow the trail to where it's coming from. All we can do over the Internet is speculate and that's useless to the OP.

Now if he finds the leak and describes where it is leaking from and posts a few photos, maybe the Internet mechanics can suggest a proper fix.