Volvo Penta MDI (Black Box) failures

[frajolex]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

Nope not that complex as long as you don’t want physical gauges as well. I’m using one of these

NEW NMEA 2000 Multifunction Converter /N2K Converter Single/Dual Up to 13-18 sensors Signal For Boat Yacht Marine Converter
https://star.aliexpress.com/share/sh...%3DsocialShare

Interesting... I have a Yatch Device coverter for the MDI that displays my engine data on Axiom.. but this looks nice... is it reliable? how long have you been using it? Is it able to read the original installed volvo penta's sensors? Did you have to buy any other equipment? I guess I would also need something to convert NMEA2000 to Seatalk? I wonder if you can setup Alarms directly on Axiom...

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by frajolex

Interesting... I have a Yatch Device coverter for the MDI that displays my engine data on Axiom.. but this looks nice... is it reliable? how long have you been using it? Is it able to read the original installed volvo penta's sensors? Did you have to buy any other equipment? I guess I would also need something to convert NMEA2000 to Seatalk? I wonder if you can setup Alarms directly on Axiom...

I have it working about a year , seems fine , my original Volvo just had oil and temp alarms trips , so these were upgraded to dual senders , I’m currently looking at integrating a raw water flow meter , annoying NMEA2000 doesn’t have a PGN for that. Funnily I’m reinstalling oil and temp gauges in the engine compartment. ( this requires electrically buffering the sender )

My system is completely seatalkng, so all you need is the seatalkng to nmea2000 converter cable as it’s only the connector is different.

[CarinaPDX]

I just did a deep dive on this. First, the latest Axioms have a cable (linked to the power cable/connector) that is terminated in a micro-c DeviceNet plug, so no adapter is necessary. Older units will need the seatalkng to DeviceNet pigtail.

The unit Dave recommended is very basic: it converts sensor data to N2K. It does not have a way to transmit the status of an oil pressure switch so a proper pressure sensor would need to be added. The same if there is a coolant overheat switch. While this would provide even more data to display the alarm function would be lost. With both the Furuno and Raymarine MFDs there is no way to set an alarm threshold. The MFDs expect the alarm trigger to come from the engine controller via N2k, PGN 127488 to be exact. The more expensive controllers that I linked to a while back do have the ability to sense switches and forward the alarms via N2K. IIRC some can have programmed alarms that start with sensor data and add the alarm function with programmable thresholds. There is a reason they cost many times more than Dave's cheap and cheerful solution. Of course there is nothing stopping just wiring up the switches on the engine to lights and buzzers for an alarm. Personally I would want the alarms because I don't continuously watch the gauges under way. But as long as you are religious about monitoring the gauges this isn't necessary I suppose.

Greg

[frajolex]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

I have it working about a year , seems fine , my original Volvo just had oil and temp alarms trips , so these were upgraded to dual senders , I’m currently looking at integrating a raw water flow meter , annoying NMEA2000 doesn’t have a PGN for that. Funnily I’m reinstalling oil and temp gauges in the engine compartment. ( this requires electrically buffering the sender )

My system is completely seatalkng, so all you need is the seatalkng to nmea2000 converter cable as it’s only the connector is different.

ok, so the solution needs to fit custom Oil pressure sensor AND custom coolant temp Sensor that would send the signal to the converter. There's no way to actually use the current sensors. A few extra questions.... what do you mean by dual-senders? is it a kind of splitter that allows you to connect 2 sensors on the engine, so you can keep both original AND the spare? Also, I've read that when you turn on the engine, you have to "enable" the alternator to charge your battery... and maybe "disable it" when you shutdown the engine. I am no electrician, so if anyone can also provide a bit more details here, I super appreciate!

[frajolex]

Originally Posted by CarinaPDX

I just did a deep dive on this. First, the latest Axioms have a cable (linked to the power cable/connector) that is terminated in a micro-c DeviceNet plug, so no adapter is necessary. Older units will need the seatalkng to DeviceNet pigtail.

The unit Dave recommended is very basic: it converts sensor data to N2K. It does not have a way to transmit the status of an oil pressure switch so a proper pressure sensor would need to be added. The same if there is a coolant overheat switch. While this would provide even more data to display the alarm function would be lost. With both the Furuno and Raymarine MFDs there is no way to set an alarm threshold. The MFDs expect the alarm trigger to come from the engine controller via N2k, PGN 127488 to be exact. The more expensive controllers that I linked to a while back do have the ability to sense switches and forward the alarms via N2K. IIRC some can have programmed alarms that start with sensor data and add the alarm function with programmable thresholds. There is a reason they cost many times more than Dave's cheap and cheerful solution. Of course there is nothing stopping just wiring up the switches on the engine to lights and buzzers for an alarm. Personally I would want the alarms because I don't continuously watch the gauges under way. But as long as you are religious about monitoring the gauges this isn't necessary I suppose.

Greg

True Greg, that's exactly what I've found when I was using the Volvo Penta gateway from Yatch Devices. I can monitor the parameter on my Axiom, but no alarms. Which other converters are able to Alarm?

Cheers

Andre

[CarinaPDX]

Originally Posted by frajolex

True Greg, that's exactly what I've found when I was using the Volvo Penta gateway from Yatch Devices. I can monitor the parameter on my Axiom, but no alarms. Which other converters are able to Alarm?

I listed 4 controllers previously. Instead of me trying to work out which is best for you why don't you check them out for yourself? Also, as I just posted, it is not necessary: just wire the existing switches to 12V and a light, buzzer, or both. Don't get silo'ed into thinking it all has to happen over N2K.

Greg

[barnakiel]

My friends here have been thru at least 2. After the 2nd the Volvo service refused warranty.



b.

[Tetis114]

Fitted a new MDI box today. Moved it from engine to hull part.

[Tetis114]

Moved MDI box

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by frajolex

ok, so the solution needs to fit custom Oil pressure sensor AND custom coolant temp Sensor that would send the signal to the converter. There's no way to actually use the current sensors. A few extra questions.... what do you mean by dual-senders? is it a kind of splitter that allows you to connect 2 sensors on the engine, so you can keep both original AND the spare? Also, I've read that when you turn on the engine, you have to "enable" the alternator to charge your battery... and maybe "disable it" when you shutdown the engine. I am no electrician, so if anyone can also provide a bit more details here, I super appreciate!

Generally with these senders you can’t parallel gauges to multiple readers. So either you buffered gauge inputs into the nmea hardware so as not to effect the existing gauge or dual senders

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by CarinaPDX

I just did a deep dive on this. First, the latest Axioms have a cable (linked to the power cable/connector) that is terminated in a micro-c DeviceNet plug, so no adapter is necessary. Older units will need the seatalkng to DeviceNet pigtail.

The unit Dave recommended is very basic: it converts sensor data to N2K. It does not have a way to transmit the status of an oil pressure switch so a proper pressure sensor would need to be added. The same if there is a coolant overheat switch. While this would provide even more data to display the alarm function would be lost. With both the Furuno and Raymarine MFDs there is no way to set an alarm threshold. The MFDs expect the alarm trigger to come from the engine controller via N2k, PGN 127488 to be exact. The more expensive controllers that I linked to a while back do have the ability to sense switches and forward the alarms via N2K. IIRC some can have programmed alarms that start with sensor data and add the alarm function with programmable thresholds. There is a reason they cost many times more than Dave's cheap and cheerful solution. Of course there is nothing stopping just wiring up the switches on the engine to lights and buzzers for an alarm. Personally I would want the alarms because I don't continuously watch the gauges under way. But as long as you are religious about monitoring the gauges this isn't necessary I suppose.

Greg

Agreed the Chinese nmea2K one doesn’t have both analog sender AND digital inputs.

[Rufduck]

Hello! What part number MDI are you getting? I thought this was sorted pre Covid. Old fat bumb and happy here has had no issues since I had the last MDI installed and thought it was finally fixed. (D1-30B x 2).
Btw, the original D series engine recall appeared to be 2007+ and though my boat was a 2007, old F/P installed 2006 engines. So, I was screwed even though it was the same engine not passing the same EPA certs.
I admire the creativity of you electronic guys per the MDI issues but as a mere moral, I would really need a plug-and-play device. As a thought, why are you resorting to a manual shutdown? The fuel stop solenoid is just an on-off circuit is it not? Can’t you just install 12v power and a switch?
Cheers

[frajolex]

Wow. After all the stress, Volvo replaced the MDI for free. Such a relief! and of course, I did move it away from the engine, and it is now attached to the hull instead of the engine itself.

Now, I'm in Canada (Toronto) and my boat is about to go on hard for 6 months... would you recommend removing the MDI by any chance? I have never removed it in 5 years of ownership, but I'm really starting to handle this like a 1-month old baby to avoid any other issues.

[CarinaPDX]

Originally Posted by frajolex

Now, I'm in Canada (Toronto) and my boat is about to go on hard for 6 months... would you recommend removing the MDI by any chance? I have never removed it in 5 years of ownership, but I'm really starting to handle this like a 1-month old baby to avoid any other issues.

I would leave the MDI alone now - you have done the one thing that should help (moving it to the bulkhead). One other thing to consider is making sure that the box with the start/stop buttons on it is out of the weather. There has been some suspicion that water intrusion into the "button box" is the cause of some MDI failures.

Greg

[frajolex]

Originally Posted by CarinaPDX

I would leave the MDI alone now - you have done the one thing that should help (moving it to the bulkhead). One other thing to consider is making sure that the box with the start/stop buttons on it is out of the weather. There has been some suspicion that water intrusion into the "button box" is the cause of some MDI failures.

Greg

That's actually the next step. Move the Control panel inside.

THX