Volvo Penta propshaft seal

[skipperpete]

The time honoured technique is to undo the 4 bolts that hold the flanges together and slide the shaft and coupling out as far as needed then whack a screwdriver or fine steel wedge into the gap ( gently) and the split coupling should be slightly loose... if not, gently tap on the rear hub of the coupling ( never on the flange) to help it off the key.
You might need to remove the shaft anode and clean up the shaft before attempting the slide back.

[Clean Hull]

Originally Posted by skipperpete

The time honoured technique is to undo the 4 bolts that hold the flanges together and slide the shaft and coupling out as far as needed then whack a screwdriver or fine steel wedge into the gap ( gently) and the split coupling should be slightly loose... if not, gently tap on the rear hub of the coupling ( never on the flange) to help it off the key.
You might need to remove the shaft anode and clean up the shaft before attempting the slide back.

Gap between where please and what is the anode?
All I can see is the coupling with the Six screws fastened as you said with four bolts to a flange.
When you say the coupling comes loose do you mean on the shaft?
I am trying to understand its construction that is how do I clear the shaft to remove the leaking seal and to replace it.

[Clean Hull]

Are there any drawings of the flanges and shaft assembly

[deblen]

Originally Posted by Clean Hull

Are there any drawings of the flanges and shaft assembly

Just remove the 4 bolts holding the split coupling to the transmission output flange. This joint will come right apart.
Hammer a large screwdriver into one of the lengthwise slots of split coupling to help spread it a fraction.Coupler should slide off the shaft.It may need some light taps on the rear of coupler to help it slide. Here is drawing of coupler:
CLAMP COUPLING FLANGE MS2B 827.pdf

[Clean Hull]

Originally Posted by deblen

Just remove the 4 bolts holding the split coupling to the transmission output flange. This joint will come right apart.
Hammer a large screwdriver into one of the lengthwise slots of split coupling to help spread it a fraction.Coupler should slide off the shaft.It may need some light taps on the rear of coupler to help it slide. Here is drawing of coupler:
Attachment 264119

Thank you for the link.

I think I am not making myself very clear in what I am trying to establish, please do bear with me.

How can I remove the coupling from the shaft when the gearbox is stopping at one end and the existing seal at the other?

Unless the shaft slides away from the gearbox to leave a gap to remove it, is that the case?

Thank you for your patience

[deblen]

Originally Posted by Clean Hull

Thank you for the link.

I think I am not making myself very clear in what I am trying to establish, please do bear with me.

How can I remove the coupling from the shaft when the gearbox is stopping at one end and the existing seal at the other?

Unless the shaft slides away from the gearbox to leave a gap to remove it, is that the case?

Thank you for your patience

Yes-the prop shaft must slide back or the engine must be moved ahead.You need space at least the length of the coupling. Be careful that the shaft doesn't slide right out of the boat when coupling is off it.

[Clean Hull]

Originally Posted by deblen

Yes-the prop shaft must slide back or the engine must be moved ahead.You need space at least the length of the coupling. Be careful that the shaft doesn't slide right out of the boat when coupling is off it.

Perfect, all is now clear, I did not understand the shaft slid away from the box, my sincerest thanks to all who took time to contribute, the honours going to you sir.

[deblen]

Originally Posted by Clean Hull

Perfect, all is now clear, I did not understand the shaft slid away from the box, my sincerest thanks to all who took time to contribute, the honours going to you sir.

I suppose it is possible to loosen the 6 clamp screws & leave the coupler bolted to transmission flange. Then slide the shaft back out of the split coupling somehow. This would allow you to replace the rubber coupling in less space?
Do not hammer on the assembly as you can damage the transmission.
Clean the shaft good with fine sand paper & lube it well. The lip seals in the new rubber gland(packning) can be easily damaged by a sharp edge,etc.
Burp the new gland when you launch.
Cheers/Len

[Clean Hull]

Will try that if enough room, thank you once again.

[hasse_A]

I replaced the shaft seal with the boat in the water. Here is description of how I did this replacement.
If the text does not turn up in English you can choose language further down the page.

17/8 Pia’s öronproppar kom till god användning. | TRUD's logg

[MicHughV]

try this...get a plastic straw..fill it with waterproof grease, yes, I know, not easy to do, but use a plastic hypodermic needle case to fill the straw....easy to find these on Amazon...flatten the straw at it's end and squeeze it under the lip of the gland and milk the grease out.
You'll get some water leakage while you are doing this, but once the straw is removed, you should be good.

[MicHughV]

As a footnote. Those glands need water to lubricate the bearing. If you haul the boat out, all the water will run out, and once you splash the boat again, the gland can develop an airlock, which needs to be burped out. As before, squeeze the flattened end of a plastic straw under the lip to allow water to enter the gland.

[Clean Hull]

Originally Posted by MicHughV

As a footnote. Those glands need water to lubricate the bearing. If you haul the boat out, all the water will run out, and once you splash the boat again, the gland can develop an airlock, which needs to be burped out. As before, squeeze the flattened end of a plastic straw under the lip to allow water to enter the gland.

Thank you for your concern I do appreciate it.