Water pump bearings, $30 ones or $4 ones?

[tstano]

Originally Posted by sailah

I buy a lot of bearings. Yes all bearings have a size code on the races. They will be a number like 6208. Just look up that number and buy what you feel comfortable spending. There are sometimes a couple numbers and letters after the bearing number.

2RS- raised seals on both sides
2ZZ- shields on both sides

For a pump I'd think you'd want sealed bearings but check what you removed.

Often when I'm looking for a bearing I'll shop the number on EBay and if I find a quality manufacturer like SKF, Fafnir, Timken, FAG I'll buy those New Old Stock bearings first. Chinese bearings are decent quality mostly but it's hard to know which ones are good.

I've bought from these guys before. I have used quite a few Nachi bearings and they are good quality. I think they used to all be Japanese but I've gotten some that were marked China.

VXB Bearings Online Store The Ball Bearing Supplier & Distributor

McMaster has a pretty good selection of bearings and seals.

Your local bearing supply store is usually a good option but you'll probably be paying close to list not being an industrial customer.

Yep I matched mine with sealed ones from Korea. Less than $10.

All U Get

[Qayaq]

Bearings from bearing supplier are OK, but be careful on the seal. The spring on the lip seal needs to be seawater resistant as does the metal insert. If you use a standard automotive lip seal the spring will corrode off in a matter of days /weeks and you are back to leaking shortly afterwards, if you check the marine seal the spring appears to be either bronze or stainless, you can get away....sort of by using an Oring to replace the spring if you are cautious not puncture the rubber of the seal case as the insert is also plain steel. Perhaps bearing suppliers can get salt water resistant seals but I've never had any luck there

[buzzstar]

Any particular qualities noted? If not, they are different, for sure, but probably only in price. Just in case buy two sets, that way if the first fails quickly you will have replacements on hand while waiting on your order for the real thing, and not be too far out of pocket. If there is no quick failure you will have a spare set for next time and still be ahead of the game.

[Isabella Jane]

A good trick I have learned with "sealed" bearings is that when they get dry and rumbly you just pick out the plastic cover and repack them. So simple. Naturally if they are loose and worn replacement is the only option.

[Bulty]

Why I love this site. You all are awesome!

[model 10]

Originally Posted by Isabella Jane

A good trick I have learned with "sealed" bearings is that when they get dry and rumbly you just pick out the plastic cover and repack them. So simple. Naturally if they are loose and worn replacement is the only option.

That would have to be a very low speed bearing, like on a combine or something.. If a roller bearing make a "rumbly" noise, it's toast.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Qayaq

Bearings from bearing supplier are OK, but be careful on the seal. The spring on the lip seal needs to be seawater resistant as does the metal insert. If you use a standard automotive lip seal the spring will corrode off in a matter of days /weeks and you are back to leaking shortly afterwards, if you check the marine seal the spring appears to be either bronze or stainless, you can get away....sort of by using an Oring to replace the spring if you are cautious not puncture the rubber of the seal case as the insert is also plain steel. Perhaps bearing suppliers can get salt water resistant seals but I've never had any luck there

^^

I concur.

Take a small magnet with you when shopping for seals. I also have replaced standard carbon steel springs with an O ring and found it satisfactory.

And yes, bearing suppliers can usually get the salt water resistant seals but it can take time depending on your location

[Wotname]

Another small caution about Yanmar raw water pumps being as this is an international forum.

The actual pump used often depends on which country sold the engine or even which decade the engine was sold.

In Australia for instance, the engine is shipped from whichever country assembled it without a pump. The pump is added to the engine in Australia before delivery to the purchaser. Presumably this is to do with trade import laws, rules, regulations or some such.

The upshot is that the (say 2GM20) water pump">raw water pump might or might be different to another 2GM20 and so some caution is required when using parts numbers given by different posters.

Even the local Yanmar dealers get caught out. I have had to return raw water pump hoses in the past because they would not fit and a closer examination of their parts book along with full engine model number and serial number gets the "right" part.

[Mr B]

Put your bearings and seals on the counter at a bearing wholesaler,
They will give you the same bearings and seals, But maybe from another manufacturer,
Same bearings and seals, Different numbers,
Tell them its marine and they will give you salt water resistant parts,
If its a high speed bearing as in Motor cycle wheels, Get the high speed bearings, They have looser tolerances for high speed,

I have 6208 in my bike wheels, They are a standard size bearing, Mine have an S I think after the number as mine are high speed bearings,
Low speed bearings, Same number, With out the S chew out very quickly on a bike,
I think they were $8-00 each, fully sealed,
Same bearing from a bike shop, $30-00 each, Marine shop, $50-00 Hahaha

I made the stainless steel conveyor to make Universal joints for cars,
Today its Ford, $160-00 It comes in a Ford box,
Tomorrow its Holden, $130-00 It comes in a Holden box,
Day after, Its in a plastic bag for the industry, Mechanics Etc, $30-00,
Only difference is the box or bag it comes in,

[bobnlesley]

Originally Posted by Wotname

Another small caution about Yanmar raw water pumps...The actual pump used often depends on which country sold the engine or even which decade the engine was sold...

This is also another Yanmar scam you can get around depending upon where you're located: Later versions of the 2GM & 3GM engines sold in Europe were fitted with a slightly different water-pump, the E-models' chamber is fractionally smaller (covers aren't interchangeable) and more noticeably they use different impellers; this being secured; with the 'E' motor's pump by a grubscrew which penetrates through the pump shaft, as opposed to having a slot and woodruff key to secure the impeller as on early European and all models supplied elsewhere.

For whatever unfathomable reason a complete E-model water pump is about 40% cheaper than the other and they are directly interchangeable; I've done it, bolts, belt, hoses are identical. This same price anomally applies if you buy the Johnson equivalent of either pump too - The Johnson pumps being about half the price of the Yanmar ones (I'm assuming that Yanmar need the extra for putting on the very nice coat of grey paint which the Johnson Pumps lack?) The bad news - for Europeans - is that I've heard that the Johnson E-model pumps are unavailable there, they ONLY supply them to Yanmar.

[rickmcdonald]

I know this is a boating site, and I read it every day it's great I've learned so much from you guys, I just have to put this out there to the guy with the BSA, I have a 65' 650 lighting had since 73' still runs great, my only worry is were to find points, some day ! Also have a 75' 19 ft. Glassply with GM 250 inline 6, trying to sell, runs great new tire's on trailer new battery last year, want to sell so I can a sailboat, thinking a Catalina 30 would be nice.