Westerbeke 10TWO injector pump removal

[deKlerk]

I am trying to remove the injector pump, but it only comes out about 3/4 inch and something is holding. I tried different positions and throttle positions. Manual talks about a side plate removal and tie end rod, but there is no side plate, unless they mean the whole timing cover! I bolted it back, but now I am not getting any fuel injected from the pump. I must have dislodged something. So annoyed at myself. lol

[Lepke]

Wherever you are, talk to an pump rebuild shop. Some have handouts for removing and installing the pump in various engines. Pump should have a brand name and number on a label. Look it up online. Sometimes manuals are available.

[skipperpete]

Originally Posted by deKlerk

I am trying to remove the injector pump, but it only comes out about 3/4 inch and something is holding. I tried different positions and throttle positions. Manual talks about a side plate removal and tie end rod, but there is no side plate, unless they mean the whole timing cover! I bolted it back, but now I am not getting any fuel injected from the pump. I must have dislodged something. So annoyed at myself. lol

Hi deKlerk
Here’s the parts diagram of your governor. On the injector pump there’s a pin (rack pin) that drops into the yoke in the parts diagram.
The pump won’t lift out until that pin lines up with a little cutout section on the engine block/timing cover. That’s the easy part. Putting it back in is a bit trickier because you have to line up the yoke with the pin and if you miss there are 2 possibilities.
1. The rack pin is on the stop side of the yoke..... no fuel.
2. The rack pin is on the full fuel side of the yoke, no fuel control or shutdown possible.
So when you refit the pump it’s critical to leave off the injector pipes, purge air from the system and then turn over the engine with the starter until you can see fuel spurts from the delivery valve holder pipe connection point...... THEN .... repeat this procedure with the stop pulled or activated. If the yoke/pin connection is correct there will now be NO fuel spurts at the pump threads.
Turn off the raw water intake while you carry out this procedure.
And keep the shims that are between the pump and base, they are the timing shims and must be kept for reassembly.

[deKlerk]

Thank you both for the response. Skipperpete, for some reason, I thought the notch was on the starboard side until I found a picture of the same pump online earlier and realized that I had it all the wrong way around. The diagram even shows it, but my mistake. Very happy I joined this site. Thanks

[deKlerk]

Skipperpete, I followed your instructions and removed the pump and reinstalled the correct way. Discovered that the one injector had a really bad spray pattern and the other was stuck open with a constant stream of diesel. Will have them rebuild. Thanks again!

[skipperpete]

Well done deKlerk and thanks for the update.
Pete.