What would you do with a (pretty) good running 29 Year old Diesel?

[skipperpete]

Here’s the maintenance schedule from the operation manual.
If it’s never been out before, I’d be either replacing or inspecting the drive plate between the engine and gearbox and since it’s at 3,400 hrs I’d probably do a cylinder leakage test to find out whether it needs a valve grind ..... rebuild the water pump">raw water pump maybe, but otherwise let er be.

[Sailmonkey]

Check valve clearances. It’s pretty non-invasive, and if it’s never been done may help the cold start lumpy.

[Russ]

Keep them but fuel polishing won’t really clean those tanks. If they are that bad they need to be opened
up and scrubbed clean. There must be a ton of junk that gets agitated every time you go to sea.

[boat driver]

decent oil and 100 hr changes, previously mentioned maintenance, and get concerned when parts become scarce. Will need a strong stomach to price a new one out. Volvo, yanmar, detroits- all are older 10000-40000 hr long running engines if not abused and not run at top end all the time.

[ItDepends]

As the owner of a 26 year old engine with 9000 hours that I put 40l to 600 hours on a year I’d encourage you to keep it.

But… do poke around a bit. The trouble with cold start would worry me. Injectors, possible. Other liters have covered that in detail. Low compression is also a possible cause. As others have mentioned, if the valves have not been adjusted, it’s past time. If the compression issue is more than injectors or misadjusted valves, you have some thinking to do.

[sv_isara]

Originally Posted by moseriw

Simple: for heavens sake keep this treasure

Yep no plans to repower. Thank you all, gives me a good perspective on this diesel, will target 10k hours and regular maintenance+.

I am reaching out to diesel shops to clean injectors. Will read up on valve clearances. I expect that the previous owner didn't do anything other than oil changes.

Would improper valve clearance clear up after a few minutes of warming up though?

The engine starts with no glow plugs and half a crank, even after sitting for months. Faster than my newish F150. It's pretty impressive.

[rslifkin]

Originally Posted by sv_sharky

Yep no plans to repower. Thank you all, gives me a good perspective on this diesel, will target 10k hours and regular maintenance+.

I am reaching out to diesel shops to clean injectors. Will read up on valve clearances. I expect that the previous owner didn't do anything other than oil changes.

Would improper valve clearance clear up after a few minutes of warming up though?

The engine starts with no glow plugs and half a crank, even after sitting for months. Faster than my newish F150. It's pretty impressive.

The small Yanmars I've dealt with have all started very quickly even after sitting for a long period.

If the valves are a bit tight and not sealing perfectly it'll leak a little compression. This may be less obvious as the engine warms up and combustion improves due to more heat.

[skipgundlach]

All of the above are good ideas but I LOOOOOVE my fuel polisher.

Total parts around $500, two metal canister-type fuel filters in series 30/10 micron, with suction pump, with vac gauge to indicate if I need to change, tees into both supply and return lines on my engine.

All parts from McMaster-Carr in Atlanta. I'm not at my computer, which has the links to its installation in my photo gallery, but the short story is that I've not changed a Racor, other than once by mistake (loose fuel line = air in supply), in over 3000 hours.

I run it any time I have the engine on, and in any lumpy seas (the better to dislodge grunge); since our wreck (first voyage, ~1/2 full tank, 3-5000 impacts on dry-at-low-water shelf in 3-day storm likely loosened everything), when I changed, and then changed again after lumpy trip back to yard to finish refit, and once in between then and the sale of our boat; the fuel is pristine.

(Buyer was curious about the tank/s. I showed him location of all 4 total. He asked if he could see in the fuel. I told him it was full, but he was welcome to; I pulled the bung and shone my big flashlight down it.

He said, "I've never seen the bottom of a fuel tank reflecting back up at me! I need to find a surveyor!!" I presume that meant he figured I took care of Flying Pig )

My canisters have a drain valve; I take out a bit to allow my canister some security against spill when I change the filters, and take out (and, in this case, catch/retain) a relative-lot of it from the 10-micron one to wash the canisters before inserting the new filters. The dirty fuel I put into my "used" oil (Honda oil changes) empty jug for discard later.

Running the pump fills the canisters (filtered fuel is returned to the tank via the return line from the engine), and I don't usually even have to bleed the engine afterward (my norm is to start it and let it run a bit).

I have never, in my 15 years of ownership, changed the fuel filter on the engine. I presume my filtration works

[bolbliksem]

Nu Yanmar 4jhTE is 31 Gear old, had 9982 hes andere runs flawless perhaps a bit boost.
I replace IT Shen An electic / hybrid drive is affordable, I Thinkpad thuis engine is capabele of running another 10k hrs

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by bolbliksem

Nu Yanmar 4jhTE is 31 Gear old, had 9982 hes andere runs flawless perhaps a bit boost.

I replace IT Shen An electic / hybrid drive is affordable, I Thinkpad thuis engine is capabele of running another 10k hrs

I’m thinking you need to proofread your speech to text dictations.

[HeywoodJ]

Originally Posted by sv_sharky

...I am reaching out to diesel shops to clean injectors. Will read up on valve clearances. I expect that the previous owner didn't do anything other than oil changes.....

Since your OP and profile say SF Bay Area, try Diamond Diesel in Oakland. No relationship, just a satisfied customer. Last time I did this they loaned me an injector puller that made the task of pulling the injectors a task of a few minutes.

https://www.diamonddiesel.com/

[mickand]

Biggest risk to any marine diesel is overheating. Changing the raw water pump impeller regularly is a must, but so is examining the internals of the pump for any wear. Wear can result in a loss of prime while on the move - don't ask how I know this.
While I'm banging on, regular replacement of your transmission oil cooler (if you have one) is also important. They can let go and either blow all your fluid out the exhaust or else fill up your transmission with salt water. Again, don't ask.

[fgd3]

Originally Posted by sv_sharky

Would improper valve clearance clear up after a few minutes of warming up though?

In an engine with solid valve lifters if there is insufficient valve clearance when the engine is cold the valves will not seal properly when the engine is hot, increasing the risk of burning an exhaust valve.

[BlueH2Obound]

Originally Posted by JPA Cate

I support your plan as well. However, when/if parts get scarce, there will come a time to get creative.

Your engine should give you at least 10,000 hrs. of service, perhaps more. We new a guy with a 50 yr. old Gardiner diesel with 24,000 hrs. on it. He wrote to them and asked what service was recommended, and they wrote back, "None. It's just run in."

Obviously, oil changes at the proper interval help, and you do need to sort the fuel problem, but that's nothing to do with the engine, and everything (as you know) to routine maintenance.

Ann

Ours is 40 years old now, and in another 6,000 hours (at 30k hours), our Gardner manual recommends removing the cylinders, and replacing all the o-rings in the cooling system to the heads prior to reassembling.

I need to make on my calendar to schedule that in in another 26,000 hours . . . .

[Celestialsailor]

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

I’m thinking you need to proofread your speech to text dictations.

Not everyone's first language is English.