What's Under Those Engine Mounts??

[Cheechako]

You can make a new bed with steel flat bar to sit atop your existing bed. weld in studs for the mounts in the proper location. Or drill and tap for bolts. Bolt the flat bar to the old bed wherever convenient along it's length. It will only raise the engine 1/4-3/8" and I assume you have that much mount adjustment...?

[Khaos13]

These are great ideas! The flexible coupling may possibly help with vibration issues too. The steel plate is also a great solution. I'm going to try the easy out method first. I can easily reach the broken bolt with my drill. I've got the pistons out now and am addressing the honing and re-ring first. I'll work on the mount when I put it all back together. Thank you!

[kapnd]

Originally Posted by Khaos13

These are great ideas! The flexible coupling may possibly help with vibration issues too. The steel plate is also a great solution. I'm going to try the easy out method first. I can easily reach the broken bolt with my drill. I've got the pistons out now and am addressing the honing and re-ring first. I'll work on the mount when I put it all back together. Thank you!

A flex coupling is not going to help your vibration issues.
Accurate alignment must be accomplished BEFORE inserting any flex spacer.
Good luck drilling out that stainless bolt, use a slow drill motor and plenty of lubricant.

[Khaos13]

Thanks for the tips kapnd! No damper, no spacer. I believe I can get that original mounting hole to work... one way or another. BTW, how about those stuck rings? The other 2 weren't quite that bad. Pretty easy access for honing cylinders in place.

[GordMay]

Congratulations!
Do photos 2 & 3 indicate that the “easy-out” worked?
Can you tell what the “core” of the engine bed is made of?

[gonesail]

wow i can't even recognize that motor as being a westerbeke. it looks like there is a lot of work room above the engine in the CD 30.

[Khaos13]

Gonesail, the reason there seems to be so much room is that I reversed the front mounting brackets on the engine. By putting them upside down I was able to lift the engine high enough to get the pan and end caps off. The I put them in the original position with the mounts themselves removed which allowed the engine to be lowered into the well for honing access. I'll have to reverse the process to get the end caps torqued and the pan back on.

The bolt is still broken off in the front hole of the portside mount. I have room to drill it out or whatever. More to follow...

[southseasailor2]

Hi I had that problem. Using a drill guide I drilled out the remains of the stud, re tapped the hole and fitted a new stud. Best method I think

[Khaos13]

Drill guide... hmmmm. That sounds like a great way to drill out and retap. I'll post here when I try it. Thank you!

[Khaos13]

OK, I have finally reassembled the engine and would like to try to start it. Compression's great (460+) but I have to fix that broken bolt. Brand new drill bit's from HD wouldn't make a dent. Ordered a set of Cobalt bits on Amazon for 16 bucks (15 drill bits). AMAZING!! 3/16 pilot hole then 5/16 for the final 3/8 tap. Went though that ss bolt in minutes. New tap seemed to find the original threads. I'll bolt everything down tomorrow.

It doesn't usually work out this way...
Now, will it run?

[Khaos13]

Well, the engine is secured and running well. Shaft alignment worked out well too. Thanks for all the great ideas!