Will my boat fall over

[Jimmyhenry]

I’ve done this a few times.
Use a back of truck crane. They are cheap enough to hire.
Make it safe and easy.
Pete

[arcticmonkey]

I removed my 4108 in pieces..... just cuz I didn't like the idea of lifting all that weight in 1 shot ( and it made working around under the floor a whole lot easier)

[MarAzul]

Originally Posted by jpendoley

Removing my Perkins aka Westerbeke 40 from my P365 sloop. I am on the hard and the crane can't reach. Thinking of using the boom supported by halyards to lift it out of the cabin and drop it over the side, Engine weight 450 pounds. Is this safe? Will jackstaand support the boat or will it fall off the stands?

Since you are hanging the weight on a boom supported by a halyard, I would
run another halyard out the opposite side to a hard point on the ground or something at least as heavy. Maybe your vehicle along side the boat.

[Pat_D]

Run a spare halyard to the opposite side of th he boat, secured to the next boats Jack stands.
Not really.

[jpendoley]

Did the deed today. Easy peasy.. In the end, I used both halyards led to the midsection of the boom-tensioned them both equally and hung the chain fall from the underside of the halyards. I departed from my original plan of running the halyards from the mast head and instead routed them down the mast just past the lower tangs and then down and aft to the boom. My thinking was less leverage on the mast head would reduce the heeling moment.
Only took the motor to the rail with the boom and then lowered it onto a crank up material lift I rented from home depot. After this experience, I'd probably skip the lift for the onboarding once the engine is ready to go back in.
Taped a wire tie perpendicular to the hull to measure movement against a static pole-never budged.
there was no outboard tie off point for the opposite rail-so it was just the jack stands. Engine weighs appprox. 400 pounds when the transmission is off.
apprieciate all the helpful suggestions!

[Adelie]

Changing the lead point didn’t change the overturning moment on the jack stands only the specific load path to the chain plates. Also it increased the load in the halyards.

[RaymondR]

Originally Posted by Adelie

Changing the lead point didn’t change the overturning moment on the jack stands only the specific load path to the chain plates. Also it increased the load in the halyards.

In technical terms the jack stands are the fulcrum.

The over turning moment is the product of horizontal distance between the fulcrum and a vertical up through the centre of gravity of the motor and the weight of the motor.

Resisting the overturning moment is the moment being generated by the weight of the boat multiplied by the horizontal distance between the fulcrum ie. the jack stand, and a vertical line through the centre of gravity of the boat. We'll call this the static moment.

If the static moment exceeds the overturning moment the boat won't tip over. This assumes that the jacks are standing vertical if they are at an angle, which is more usual, it gets a little more complicated.

In technical terms the load on the halyards is a vector problem.

The vertical load of the engine constitutes the y axis. The length of the boom the x axis. The resultant, after applying a little maths or trigonometry, is the halyard or hypotenuse. Since the length of the boom and the weight of the engine are constant, decreasing both the y axis, and consequent to this the hypotenuse, increases both the compressive loading on the boom and the tensile loading on the halyard.

This stuff is all junior high school stuff if one can remember and apply it.



If one assumes the mast vertical and the boom horizontal

[rgleason]

Agteed.

Thanks for the report back.

[Cadence]

Congratulations and thanks for the feedback.

[Mistress Sirena]

Originally Posted by jpendoley

Stormalong, Wouldn't I see blue smoke out the exhaust as well? My exhaust is invisible. Not sure its still the rear seal either-I replaced it with a teflon rope seal, but I am a novice at best and I did it in place in 100 degree heat so it might still be the seal. Given the saddle the engine sits in, its impossible to determine if the rear seal is the leaking point as it leaks form the pan, front seal, valve cover gasket-you name the leak source and it leaks. Even if it needed a rebuild, I would be tempted to do it myself-I'm cheap and I like to understand my systems cold.

Hell I just secured every bolt and nut on the engine and stopped 90% of leaking all the bolts were loose every oil pan bolt all of them.Like magic!

[Mistress Sirena]

Back to the original problem people been swinging engines this way all the time
haven't heard of any disasters use common sense.

[stormalong]

Originally Posted by Mistress Sirena

Hell I just secured every bolt and nut on the engine and stopped 90% of leaking all the bolts were loose every oil pan bolt all of them.Like magic!

My oil leak was definitely coming from the crankshaft seal. I had had that engine for 13 years and 4000 running hours before replacing it and had dealt with plenty of other oil drips before. 4-108s are known for oozing oil and this one was no exception.

[jpendoley]

After removing the diesel and examining in my shop, it appears the recently replaced rear main seal is not leaking. Mucho leaking from the front cover that sits over the front seal.

Next step is a leakdown test. Engine has 4000+ hours, but runs strong, no smoke, starts easily and does not over heat. Aside from the leaking oil, its a great engine. Leak down should give me some indication of cylinder condition, ring condition and valve condition. Hoping for no big surprises. I have the shop manual for a complete rebuild if necessary, but I am betting regasketing is all that will be required-perhaps a valve adjustment, lapping or replacement.
fingers crossed.
Really appreciate all of the suggestions about engine removal-the forum is a great resource for DIY!