Yanmar 3GM30F external oil line

[roverhi]

That pesky external steel oil line that runs around the back of the 3GM30F is awfully rusty so I've ordered a part from Yanmar. Access on my engine on the stbd side of the boat seriously sucks. Don't want to have to pull the engine to replace it so wondering what, if anything needs/can be removed to get at that Banjo fitting?? That's the stbd. side of the boat or the left side of the engine as you are facing the front of the engine.

The picture in the parts catalogue also showed a junction in the at the back of the engine. Don't see anywhere where there'd be a connection back there. Maybe pulling the exhaust would expose it but don't want to unless I have to. The less I have to disturb the exhaust the better as I finally got a good seal at the gasket on the engine. That's what's probably caused the pipe to rust in the first place.

[Roy M]

Okay, here's a start. I took a lot of pics of my engine before installing it, so here are a few of the starboard side. Coincidentally, mine also lacks easy access, hence the photos taken before installation. Click on the individual shots for greater detail.

[Roy M]

roverhi, This is a coincidence because it's the second time I've posted these pics in an hour. Because your engine may make it difficult to access the dip stick, perhaps this idea will help. I added a short length of 1/4" copper pipe to my dipstick hole on the starboard side, then bought a Chevrolet dipstick to fit inside. I inserted it as far as it would go to get a measurement, then trimmed the flat metal to the correct length, using the old dipstick as the guide. It works great, and looks like it belongs there. Also, because the primary fuel filter is inaccessible, I added an external 2 micron filter in the fuel line, prior to the fuel pump, where I could easily service it.

[four winds]

No banjo on the back, just the junction T fitting.

There is a clamp securing the assembly though. Bolted to the back of the head. Bottom left of the four bolts there. Near the lift loop.

A friend replaced his last year without removing anything else. Said it wasn't hard but removing the starter may have made it easier.

[sailorchic34]

I removed the alternator to get access to the starter side banjo bolt and I unbolted the fuel filter from the engine to allow fingers to hold the washer behind the banjo bolt.

ROYM looks to have the new improved oil line and it's routed slightly different then older earily 90s GM's.

I highly recommend buying extra crush washers as you will donate a few to the gods of the bilge. Generally chanting (the four letter type) accompanies dropping the washer.

I should note that I rerouted my oil line over the starter as it is practically impossible for me to access that side or pull the starter without pulling the engine

EDIT: Oops, I stand corrected. ROYM's photo's show the standard oil line routing. I got it confused with what might be a fuel return.

[roverhi]

RoyM, mahalo for the great photos. Unfortunately the damn line disappears behind fuel filter and can't see where it goes after that and what it ends up being connected to. I will probably be pulling the engine just to make it easier to work on. R&R'd the galley but haven't permanently installed the pieces so it's just a matter of pulling a few screws to have a straight shot at the engine to hook up the come along.

Did you just jam the copper tube in the dip stick hole to do the modified dip stick. A really good idea as I have to insert the dipstick by feel as I can't gat my head in to see the puka it goes into.

four winds, mahalo for your photo as I think it shows the 'T' at the aft end of the engine that I saw in the parts manual. What does the vertical part of the 'T' go to.

Sailor Chick, mahalo for the crush washer heads up, will call the dealer on Monday to order a few extra. Amazing how much stuff I send into the bilge to feed the troll that lives down there. I was questioning whether I needed to unbolt the fuel filter to get at the end of the line. Looks like I do.

[sailorchic34]

Originally Posted by roverhi

Sailor Chick, mahalo for the crush washer heads up, will call the dealer on Monday to order a few extra. Amazing how much stuff I send into the bilge to feed the troll that lives down there. I was questioning whether I needed to unbolt the fuel filter to get at the end of the line. Looks like I do.

Yes the oil line goes to the oil galleys for the cam. Unbolting the fuel filter and moving it a few inches was enough to gain access to the bolt. I used crush washers from the autoparts store. I donated 4 or 5 crush washers to the bilge. Lots of chanting that day.

[Roy M]

roverhi, Yes, I simply jammed the copper tube into the dipstick opening. There was plenty of room for the dip stick to travel. When I get back to engine work, I will fabricate a little strap to hold the upper end securely. It is soooooo nice to be able to take an oil reading without sticking my arm down the back side of the heat exchanger.

[four winds]

Originally Posted by roverhi

four winds, mahalo for your photo as I think it shows the 'T' at the aft end of the engine that I saw in the parts manual. What does the vertical part of the 'T' go to.

Had to look again and didn't notice this before. The line extending up from the tee is only a couple inches long, straight up. It is visible in the shadows in the picture. Banjo bolted to the back of the head to pressure feed oil to the rocker arms.

The line going down is as sailorchic described, near and behind the lift pump for the cam bearings.

Edit to add pic...

That clamp on the left edge of the picture and the banjo bolt above the tee is what you are after on the back of the engine.

[DougR]

Looks like you should just remote mount that fuel filter on a bulkhead and be done with it....

DougR

[Roy M]

DougR, that's what I did, along with a pair of 30 micron filters paralleld together with a Racor vacuum gauge.

[boeing1]

I have replaced the oil line on a friends boat, and I did have to remove the starter, other that that it was not a bad job, however his boat had good access on both sides of the engine...

[jessehunt]

I just had mine replaced too (after pumping most of my engine oil in the bilge). The starter had to come off, as well as the air cleaner for easier access. On the starboard side, the fuel filter assembly also had to be removed. The replacement Yanmar line is now copper, so I guess they saw the light!

[jessehunt]

And thanks Roy M for the idea of extending the oil dipstick tube! I have had to reinsert my dipstick by feel since I can't even see the hole. And after the engine has run for awhile, that heat exchanger is uncomfortable on my inner forearm!!

[svJasmine]

I have just replaced mine. Started the engine one day and let it run for a few minutes and the alarm went off. Pumped all the oil out and in to the bilge. What a mess.

The repair took a few hours. Needed to remove the starter to fit it in.
I will keep this one painted!