Yanmar 3qm30 NO START ISSUES

[Chayal]

I’m with you on that deck fill ^

The fuel in the primary tank has been compromised and the tanks are in need of good cleaning. The secondary tank is full of diesel and it smells like varnish.

I’ll definitely keep everyone posted, this motor will be put to good use come end of August.

Here’s a picture of the individual parts of anyone’s ever curious.

[jimbunyard]

Glad you got it running; good to see the 'impossible' to some is 'just another learning experience' to others...

I'd be most interested to know what 'lapping procedure' you used to clean up the p&b (s?).

[Compass790]

It might be my eyes but is the delivery v/v slightly rusty in your parts pic?
Hope you lapped that too if it is. It holds the pressure in the injection lines.
If there is no fuel coming through the return line it's a dead giveaway for a dodgy delivery v/v.
I too am curious about how you lapped P&B & how she runs after some use

[Wotname]

I don't wish to sound like a naysayer and I do champion DIY efforts but....

Consider the following.

One P&B was corroded which means a loss of metal. This P&B was lapped which also means removal of metal. The tolerances of the P&B are super close, they are sold as a matched pair. My limited experience of them is that when new, the plunger won't side in the barrel dry, it will only side when lubricated with diesel. That is a close fit!

This suggests to me that one cylinder will be getting less fuel than the other two but this might not be noticeable with a three cylinder engine.

Also - any fuel that escapes the P&B ends up in the sump so do keep a weather eye on the oil

If the engine doesn't perform to expectations when under load, it is time to consider replacing all three P&Bs and perhaps the delivery valves.

However if it currently runs and performs to your requirements, then nothing more needs to be done!

[jimbunyard]

I'm guessing the 'business' end of the plunger was not corroded, but gummed up. If you look closely at the plunger in the picture, there's a lot of crud on the spring and pinion end, but even that end, the 'exposed' end, doesn't look to have any rust on it. The bit of the pressure end you can see in the picture looks maybe discolored, or it could just be an artefact in the picture.

I'd just run it and keep an eye on everything until it proves itself, or not.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by jimbunyard

I'm guessing the 'business' end of the plunger was not corroded, but gummed up. If you look closely at the plunger in the picture, there's a lot of crud on the spring and pinion end, but even that end, the 'exposed' end, doesn't look to have any rust on it. The bit of the pressure end you can see in the picture looks maybe discolored, or it could just be an artefact in the picture.

I'd just run it and keep an eye on everything until it proves itself, or not.

Good observation JimB.

There is a world of difference between a "gummed up" item and a "corroded" item .

[Compass790]

The worrying part for me is that it was leaking diesel.
If it was only from bad assembly OP might be ok If leak was coming thru the P&B sorry no.
It may still run with tiny leak as they pump more than is needed for injection in good nick but no good letting diesel leak back to sump

Yes I did say in PM that his critical area of P&B doesnt look so bad & his fingers are over the relief groove area so can't see on that how bad it is.
I'd liked to have seen the business end after cleanup/lapping. If it was scored don't hold out much hope but interested in the outcome.

Won't hurt to try

[Chayal]

I think I shouldn’t have used the word lapped “

No abrasive was used in the barrels.

Just a few strokes of wet sand in wd40. Then clean, oil, check fit. On plungers only where they ride in barrel.

Multiple times ^

The inside of the barrels were clean.

Engine needs to be used now to tell. I’ll keep info posted.

[jimbunyard]

Originally Posted by Wotname

There is a world of difference between a "gummed up" item and a "corroded" item .

And, apparently, nowadays there's even a world of difference in levels of 'gummed up'. Not 6 hours ago I fixed my friends wife's G37 that had thrown 17 codes including for both VVT (variable valve timing) solenoids and MAF sensors (about 2-600.00 depending [aftermarket, not infiniti]), and would neither run nor idle, with a few squirts from a can of MAF cleaner and tightening one intake boot hose clamp. The MAF sensors looked new; I cleaned them over some paper towels, whatever was gumming them up was invisible, but it ran like the rocket it always was after they were cleaned.

Surprised the hell out of me.

[Compass790]

Originally Posted by Chayal

I think I shouldn’t have used the word lapped “

No abrasive was used in the barrels.

Just a few strokes of wet sand in wd40. Then clean, oil, check fit. On plungers only where they ride in barrel.

Multiple times ^

The inside of the barrels were clean.

Engine needs to be used now to tell. I’ll keep info posted.

Sounds promising for you if barrels were clean.
I can see lapping delivery v/v as its a taper seal but not P&B if corroded.
Still think it would be a good idea to clean injectors as well. Be a piece of cake after doing inj. pump.
Yes please keep us posted.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Compass790

......
Still think it would be a good idea to clean injectors as well. Be a piece of cake after doing inj. pump.
Yes please keep us posted.

You might have skipped over this

Originally Posted by Chayal

...................
The previous owner had the injectors rebuild, and did provide me with an invoice.
I have a feeling this thing sat for a long time. With no fuel.

.............

[Compass790]

Originally Posted by Wotname

You might have skipped over this

Yep ya got me there cobber,
Sadly the only part of me that does any skipping these days is my brain

Wondered why OP ignored my earlier prompt.

[Chayal]

Going through cooling system now...fitting a temperature gauge and oil pressure gauge.

Took off thermostat housing, found this....

No thermostat(s) even present. Housing has room for 2.

Manual shows 1 on inlet port closest to crank.

[Chayal]

And I found the secondary filter has 2 stripped bolts. Bleeder and banjo for return. No o ring, half ass sealed with rtv.

That won’t be able to go back on.

[Chayal]

Originally Posted by jimbunyard

And, apparently, nowadays there's even a world of difference in levels of 'gummed up'. Not 6 hours ago I fixed my friends wife's G37 that had thrown 17 codes including for both VVT (variable valve timing) solenoids and MAF sensors (about 2-600.00 depending [aftermarket, not infiniti]), and would neither run nor idle, with a few squirts from a can of MAF cleaner and tightening one intake boot hose clamp. The MAF sensors looked new; I cleaned them over some paper towels, whatever was gumming them up was invisible, but it ran like the rocket it always was after they were cleaned.

Surprised the hell out of me.

More than likely the vacuum leak causing those issues ^

Can’t remember how many I’ve smoke tested.

If I remember correctly there was a software tsb depending on what year that G is.

I worked on the bench at Nissan infinity for ~3 years.