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cruizn · 22-05-2023, 18:56

I spoke to SkipperPete yesterday via phone

He walked me through the process. He also mentioned that the timing marking hole on the side of the flywheel housing might have a rubber cap covering the hole. This is probably why I could not find the hole.

He mentioned I need to have the engine rotated to bTDC (10 degrees ) and can find bTDC by either removign the rocker cover to view the tappets.. or remove cylinder #1 injector and use a blunt object to such as a phillips head screw driver into the cylinder and then rotate the engine till BTDC. I should see a spurt of diesel come from the injector that signals I have the correct piston position.
The I can reinstall the Injection Pump. and kick her over. If still out of timing rotate the pump body slightly, retighten and test again.

Hope this helps others in the future reading this post.

I'll take photos as I move through the process.

Wish me luck

cruizn · 24-05-2023, 02:32

SkipperPete mentioned that the peep hole located on the flywheel housing often has a rubber cap over it. Maybe this is why I could not find it.

Think I might remove cylinder #1's injector and then place a blunt screwdriver into the hole to find 10 degrees BtDC

ScottRhodes13 · 24-05-2023, 18:01

I went to my boat and was able to hold a piece of emery cloth against the flywheel while running to clean it up a bit. Now, what do you know, the timing marks show up. I've attached photos so you can see what to expect if you need to do it this way. Note - I had to use a mirror to see into the peep hole, so numbers are reversed. The timing mark is similar to the TDC mark, but without the numbers.

I've also included a photo of the front pully at TDC. Note that when at TDC, two of the holes on the circumference of the pully are at 45 degrees from vertical.

ScottRhodes13 · 24-05-2023, 18:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruizn

Think I might remove cylinder #1's injector and then place a blunt screwdriver into the hole to find 10 degrees BtDC

Once you find TDC using the screwdriver, how will you know how far to back off to get 10 degrees BTDC.

**skipperpete** · 24-05-2023, 18:47

Actually the timing mark is 17° before TDC. So when you find TDC And the timing hole marks you go back 1/4 of a turn then very slowly turn the crank with a breaker bar until the 17° mark is in the window.
No mark....simply mark TDC on the front pulley and a matching mark on the timing cover. and either use a timing protractor or math calc to mark the pulley at 17° from the TDC mark. Its a bit rough but works well to just establish how close or far you are from injection.

cruizn · 24-05-2023, 20:20

Thanks for valuable input here guys
17 degrees Before TDC ..got it
I also have to align the injection pump markings yes.

Slightly off topic
While I'm at it, I might as well adjust the tappets
Clean out the heat exchanger & check the impeller.
What's a good method / tool to clean each heat exchanger tube ?

ScottRhodes13 · 24-05-2023, 22:36

Here's a screen shot from Yanmar's Operation Manual. It seems to indicate that the timing angle changed for the JH2 series engine compared to the JH series, and is now 10 deg for the 4JH2-DTE. I know the service manual seems to indicate 17 deg, but this seems more specific to me. Might be best to find the mark on the flywheel to be sure.

**skipperpete** · 24-05-2023, 23:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruizn

Thanks for valuable input here guys
17 degrees Before TDC ..got it
I also have to align the injection pump markings yes.

Slightly off topic
While I'm at it, I might as well adjust the tappets
Clean out the heat exchanger & check the impeller.
What's a good method / tool to clean each heat exchanger tube ?

Yes if there’s a notch and a scribed mark on the pump flange to align ....unless you marked the initial position on the pump flange and the engine housing before removing the pump. I usually focus on getting the timing to within a few degrees and running the engine. In the past, the next step would be to verify the point of injection relative to the flywheel marking by “spill timing” the pump with the 17° mark lined up... but now I often use a timing light if I can get a clear shot at the engine marks, I bought it to check auto advance but it’s turned out to be a lazy way to set pump timing, not as accurate as spill timing but close enough.
Yes on the tappets. But buy the new OEM Orings for the heat exchanger end caps first. The tube stack has to be in the correct position to line up with the end caps and the flow divider web.... take photos as you open er up.

**skipperpete** · 24-05-2023, 23:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScottRhodes13

Here's a screen shot from Yanmar's Operation Manual. It seems to indicate that the timing angle changed for the JH2 series engine compared to the JH series, and is now 10 deg for the 4JH2-DTE. I know the service manual seems to indicate 17 deg, but this seems more specific to me. Might be best to find the mark on the flywheel to be sure.

Yes indeed , 10 or 12° sounds much more civilized, 17 is a bit rattle’y he’ll know for sure when he finds the flywheel markings.

cruizn · 27-05-2023, 17:55

Hi everyone, An update regarding yesterday's injection pump re-installation.

A few friends and I had a fun time aboard taking on Skipper Pete's advice and other advice posted here.
I really appreciate all the input that this forum has offered over the past weeks, without it I'd probably have given in and handed it over to a Marine Mechanic whom would have cost and arm and leg.

Here are the steps I took.

1. I removed #1 cylinder's injector and the line running from the injector to the pump.

2. I placed a breaker bar with socket on the pulley at the front of the engine. Before rotating the engine over slowly I also pushed a long plastic rod into the injector hole where it goes down into the cylinder... making sure not that the tip of the rod did not simply rest on an internal lip that sits approx. 2-3 cm below the hole. The rod should drop down and rest on the cylinder head.

3. Rotate the engine clockwise till the rod move upwards and reaches top dead center of the stroke.

4. I marked the pulley with some tape so I knew exactly where TDC was.

5. I then kept rotating the engine with my thumb sealing off the injection nozzle hole.. why ? This way you can feel for the upwards compression stroke. The compression of the air within the cylinder should push your thumb slightly indicating you are on the compression stroke.

6. I repositioned the tape so it indicated where TDC on the pulley for the compression stroke was.

7. Next up I phoned Skipper Pete (from this forum) & asked for some valuable advice. He recommended using a flash light & mirror to check the marking(s) located in the peep hole on the side of the flywheel housing. That hole is really hard to find.. you need to look very low on the stbd. side of the engine. I looked into the hole and saw a very faint line which was the mark. note: It was very hard to see the mark as the flywheel was covered in surface rust. The mark sat in the middle of the peep hole (as per image I supplied from the service manual in a previous post)

8. Next up I had to offset the cylinder 10 degrees before top dead center "bTDC" note: it's 10 degrees for Yanmar 4HTE 2 models.. but if you have a Yanmar 4H3 onwards the cog that connects the injection pump shaft to the engine will have a more complex cog that integrates a timing offset mechanism. I believe it works on a spring/ centrifical force mechanism. My engine does not have such a mechanism so I had to offset 10 degrees. There should be a second marking on the flywheel indicating you are at 10 degrees bTDC. note: I could not find this extra marking so simply rotated the engine slightly anti-clockwise from TDC. only slightly when I saw the plastic rod I placed back in the cylinder hole move downwards ever so slightly.

9. I then rotated the engine by hand again this time looking for a tiny spurt of fuel to come from the injection pump where #1 line is normally connected. It only emits a little bit of fuel so watch it closely. Once you see that you should be good to attach the injection line and install the injector.

10. Next up I had to bleed the system of air. ( there are loads online videos on how to do this step ) A.) make sure the fuel line is open.. crack the bleed screw on your fuel filter and pump the manual lever located on the fuel pump with your fingers. once fuel flows nip up the bleed screw. B.) open the injection pump bleed screw.. it's not a screw (it's a bolt) on the side of the pump ( a banjo fitting with tube) pump that fuel pump with your thumb again till fuel flows freely and no bubbles are see. Tighten it up.
C.) open all injector lines just above each injector. one complete turn each. and then kick over the engine. once you see fuel coming out and no bubble in each line.. tighten each line up. note: this can take time & might even drain your battery. So take your time.. no rush here. if you are lucky the engine will eventually start.

cruizn · 27-05-2023, 18:03

note: I had to take the above steps as I had my injection pump fully serviced which is not cheap.

I recommend if you have simply removed and reinstalled your pump, to simply rotate the actual pump body slightly as you can retard or advance the timing slightly doing this alone. try kicking engine over.. if not starting loosen the three nuts that hold the pump to the engine block and rotate the pump slightly then retighten the nuts and try starting again. Why ? You might have simply offset the pump when you reinstalled it. I recommend not rotating the engine if you remove the injection pump. Mark the cog teeth before you remove it. This way you know the engine has not been turned and your pump should fit back into place perfectly.. but once again check that angle you have installed the pump on. I recommend you mark the pump where it sits against the engine block before ever removing it. Take some photos as well.

I sure hope this helps

cruizn · 27-05-2023, 18:12

My engine now starts.. it started but not for long as my starter motor stopped working. I am going to replace it as I feel it's on it's last legs anyway and I want piece of mind out there and without starter motor kicking over straight away one could get into a dangerous position relatively quickly.

**hpeer** · 27-05-2023, 18:38

I have a 4JH4. I went through a similar process. Not easy.

On MY engine there is a device that keeps the timing in one position until the engine warms up, then the timing changes a few degrees. It uses a wax spring very similar to a thermostat.

So I reinstalled the pump and the engine would run until it warmed up, then shut off. I had to readjust the timing for when the engine was warm.

No clue if your pump arrangement has tuis same “feature”, but if it does there will be a hose with coolant running to the pump area and connecting with a lever.

cruizn · 27-05-2023, 19:28

Regarding 4JH engines. I have the 4JH2 DTE ( T for turbo )

I tried spraying some engine starter accelerant "Start ya Bastard" into the engine inlet but it did nothing.. is this because the turbo is in the way ?

I hear that the Turbo models are not as popular as the standard engine.. Is this correct and what is the value of having a turbo on a sail boat boat engine ??