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tinho · 08-06-2022, 10:38

That is the diagnosis of the mechanic that came by. This engine has 600 hrs on it, last time it started it was 2 years ago and ran like a dream. This time no start, and after having done the bleeding procedure, and following the instructions of the yanmar mechanic, and finally a visit from the mechanic, his final word is that the rack is stuck and is not moving and not allowing fuel to go to the lines or injectors. Removing the pump is a last ditch resort, and I wonder if there is any way of using carb cleaner or any other product to try to loosen the rack? has anyone done this or have any tricks?
Thanks in advance

**skipperpete** · 08-06-2022, 21:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by tinho

That is the diagnosis of the mechanic that came by. This engine has 600 hrs on it, last time it started it was 2 years ago and ran like a dream. This time no start, and after having done the bleeding procedure, and following the instructions of the yanmar mechanic, and finally a visit from the mechanic, his final word is that the rack is stuck and is not moving and not allowing fuel to go to the lines or injectors. Removing the pump is a last ditch resort, and I wonder if there is any way of using carb cleaner or any other product to try to loosen the rack? has anyone done this or have any tricks?

Thanks in advance

There are really no alternatives, you need to get the injector pump to a fuel injection tech shop but before going into battle with the pump timing gear to get the pump off it’s worth considering whether or not the pump really has a stuck plunger/s. If you had a good mechanic give you the diagnosis, fair enough but there are other things that can cause a “no fuel at the injectors” event so to verify, undo the 5 screws that fasten the sideplate on the injector pump and try to manually operate the fuel rack through the window. If those 4 little geared collars all rotate in unison the plungers are ok, if not, time to read one of the many previous threads on this forum about getting the timing gear off.
If you do lift off the sideplate make sure the area is scrupulously clean and don’t try to force the rack into turning the plungers... no big screwdrivers! Also be wary of trying to start the engine because if a plunger is stuck at full fuel it will also hold the other 3 working plungers at full fuel but without stop lever or governor control and an overspeed will happen.

tinho · 09-06-2022, 19:32

Thank you Skipperpete, I will try that out.

Allied39 · 09-06-2022, 20:05

Be very careful.
Do not try to start the engine without first removing the air filter to give you clear access to block the air intake if the engine runs away, by that I mean starts and redlines.

The engine can be shut down by simply closing off the air intake. I have done it with my hand without any ill effects...folks who have never done it will say you will damage your hand.

Do whatever you like...if you are scared...have a piece of wood handy.

I would question the knowledge, or experience of the mechanic if he did not take this precaution.

Removing the injector pump is no big deal if you know what you are doing.....but you have to maintain the timing. I wont go into it, there are threads on this forum that talk about that in depth.

Have fun!!

tinho · 10-06-2022, 07:31

Allied 39 thank you. I read the other posts (the ones I could find) Do you have to drain the oil before removing the front cover? I assume draining the fuel out of the pump, trying to have as few surprises as possible. Thanks

Allied39 · 10-06-2022, 21:20

By remove the front cover, you mean the cover exposing the high pressure pump drive gear right? You do not need to remove the whole timing cover.
No you dont need to drain the oil, or the fuel either really.
Iam pretty sure we are talking about the same engine. I cant remember if i did it on a 4jh3e or a 4jh4e...it's a while back now. You can remove the gear cover and lock the gear in place with a special tool and remove the pump. The shaft can only engage the gear in one position.
I talked a guy in Gibralter through the process on one of the threads.
I'll have a look tomorrow and see if I can find the other threads.
I built a tool/puller to do this, lent it out a few times. Last time it came back beat up, I have not got around to repairing it, not likely to need it.

Allied39 · 10-06-2022, 21:23

https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...al-209330.html

This has some info. Was a 4jh4E

tinho · 11-06-2022, 06:19

Allied 39,
Thanks for all the info. The reason I asked about draining oil, besides the gear front cover, there is an oil line that is bolted right above the lift pump.
I will attempt removal with my puller, but will get in touch if my set up does not work.
Thanks

Allied39 · 11-06-2022, 06:39

My knowledge of 4jh4E high pressure fuel pump removal is pretty much in (or retrievable from) the link I posted.

tinho · 11-06-2022, 19:53

Today I removed the 4 bolt cover, and was surprised to see the holes are hidden by the housing. I was hoping to secure something to the holes on the gear....
https://www.facebook.com/v40refit/ph...20710497989926

**skipperpete** · 12-06-2022, 17:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by tinho

Today I removed the 4 bolt cover, and was surprised to see the holes are hidden by the housing. I was hoping to secure something to the holes on the gear....
https://www.facebook.com/v40refit/ph...20710497989926

Hey Tinho you have the version with an auto advance attached to the timing gear, called a “Timer” in the service manual. I’m curios to know about what appears to be scratching or scoring on the face of the timer housing, did you remove a screw in plug from the hub or was that threaded hole empty except for the gear retaining bolt?

tinho · 12-06-2022, 17:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by skipperpete

Hey Tinho you have the version with an auto advance attached to the timing gear, called a “Timer” in the service manual. I’m curios to know about what appears to be scratching or scoring on the face of the timer housing, did you remove a screw in plug from the hub or was that threaded hole empty except for the gear retaining bolt?

Skipperpete, I wondered the same about the scratches. The Timer has a large nut that I removed. I used an impact gun and I wonder if that did the scratching, but I doubt it. Today I got to the point that the pump was moved back away from its place, but the timer came attached with it and so I could not pull the pump all the way out. I am stumped. I am trying to move cautiously, and this is not what I read or was told . I suspect I need a special tool that threads onto the threaded hole and then I can put pressure on the inner bolt and separate the timer from the pump . I have no idea...
https://www.facebook.com/v40refit/ph...20710844656558