Yanmar Distress

[delmarrey]

If that last link doesn't work for ya, try the download from here and save it to your computer.

Technical specifications of previous models - Yanmar Marine

[Bash]

I have a Balmar alternator on my Yanmar rather than the original Hitachi that comes with most Yanmars. The pivot bolt holding on my Balmar sheared while underway, and it took me two days to get a replacement, and that was right here in California. Ever since, I carry two of those bolts just to be sure.

[sailorboy1]

Never sheared the pivot bolt and the engine, but have the threads on the Balmar alternator itself. I just drilled it out and replaced with a bolt which slipped. So I installed and extra bolt/nut on the adjustment arm to also hold it in place.

[DeborahLee]

Here is a good site. They have a great bulletin board that you can read and its divided up to make it easy. A lot of the responses comes from mechanics so you'll be able to see the problems with different Yanmars and the fix. Good Luck on your trip.
Marine Diesel Engines and Engine Parts - Universal, Volvo, Westerbeke, Yanmar, MASE Use never seeze on your bolts and you'll never need a tap and die set.

[Chef Mike]

That first link worked great delmarrey. Thank you very much! It's great to here all of your suggestions.

I am working on an inventory of all the spare parts that we will carry aboard. After inventory is done I will post it to on our blog for your enjoyment. Thanks again keep the suggestions coming.

Chef Mike
PacificSailors

[Bash]

Originally Posted by Chef Mike

That first link worked great delmarrey. Thank you very much! It's great to here all of your suggestions.

I am working on an inventory of all the spare parts that we will carry aboard. After inventory is done I will post it to on our blog for your enjoyment. Thanks again keep the suggestions coming.

Chef Mike
PacificSailors

When I got my first Yanmar, I had the local Yanmar parts dealer put together a spare parts kit for my engine prior to my first cruise with that boat. He was happy to do so.

[Therapy]

Welcome to CF Chef Mike.

My advise is to get the parts a repair technician says are liable to go. routine parts and oil etc are a no brainer.

This place is great and as you have seen above there are helpful experts here.

I ain't no expert but I got a lotta parts and tools and the farthest I have been with this boat is the Keys and the Tortugas.

Don't have a tap or a die though - figgered it would rust up.

Lots forget the antisieze and locktite. Don't do that.

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by Chef Mike

That first link worked great delmarrey. Thank you very much! It's great to here all of your suggestions.

I am working on an inventory of all the spare parts that we will carry aboard. After inventory is done I will post it to on our blog for your enjoyment. Thanks again keep the suggestions coming.

Chef Mike
PacificSailors

Happy to help while the winter passes by. Just installed a 3JH a couple springs ago. So I've educated myself in the JH's and picked up any problems they may have along the way, while surfing the web.

I'm a strong advocate of preventive maintenance and it seems the Yanmars are in need. But if properly run, setup & maintained they seem to last a long time. I have 100 hours on it now and all is well. My blog shows the installs.


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[jewel114]

Originally Posted by Chef Mike

Thanks Guys that is the kinda advice that I am looking for.

How does water drain back into the exhaust? I have a loop in the wet exhaust hose... Are you thinking of a siphoning action with following seas?

The engine has 300 hours on it.

Chef Mike
PacificSailors

Water can enter the engine if you open the compression releases on the cylinders when cranking. PSC put a sign on my Dana to start the engine with the raw water valve closed and open the valve when the engine starts. Explore the term "hydrolock".

[Charlie]

Originally Posted by Chef Mike

As you may have guessed I am no marine diesel mechanic... just a guy that does not like the dull moments interrupted by shear terror when boating.

I am looking at this schematic and was told previously by somebody whom may have heard from somebody else that the part labeled #4 there, which is some sort of breather I believe, was installed from the factory as a Stainless Steel union. Which was replaced with a schedule 80 plastic part.

So because of this SS union that may have corroded away to nothing the engine has corrosion in places that are directly beneath the union (part #4). Or is it because there is water draining back into the exhaust.

With the engine running I do not see any evidence of water leaking any where. So how could I tell if water was actually backing up into the engine?

Chef Mike
PacificSailors

I had a problem like this on my engine. Because my engine is buried I didn't see the water leak and it had resolved itself (yes that is odd) by the time I found it. The leak was on the aft port side and caused a lot of problems with the motor mounts and the electrical connections. I had to end up replacing the mounts well before there time. It also rusted out the the flange on the engine that attaches to the motor mount and the transmission shift lever. I had to take these things apart, de-rust them, and then paint them. PITA. The electrical connections also had to be cleaned and then coated with tef-gel. keep an eye on that section of the engine. BTW I have a 4JH4E.

[NoTies]

Definitely carry a spare exhaust elbow and pay heed to Yanmar's recommendations for cleaning intervals. These elbows have a real habit of coking up in sailboat engines. I've personally repaired a few boats in the Pacific where previous mechanics removed heads, injectors, pumps etc. to resolve a problem yet if they had checked the exhaust they could have saved the owners time, grief and money.

[neilsailingrn]

I was once on the hard in Solomons Island MD. I was working on my boat and a mechanic came over to chat. We often chatted about things pertaining to engines. That day he had raised a boat from the bottom that went down 2 days before at it's slip. He was mentioning that the engine fired right up after he changed the oil, removed all the injectors and blew the water out of the cylinders, changed the filters, got freash fuel going to the engine. "Not a problem" he said, "it's a yanmar. They always start up." It had 2000 hrs on it.

[hellosailor]

Not surprising, if the engine was not running when it sunk (no damage from ingesting water and trying to compress it) and it was tended to promptly when it was raised (no opportunity for a damp engine to rust the rings to the cylinder walls, etc.).

With no ignition system, a big chunk of metal should be able to be "washed" and dried and start up again without incident. I'd expect purging the fuel lines/high pressure pump from the water to be the most important part of it, the rest would cook off once the engine started, as long as it was cleaned & reoiled first.