A good inexpensive varnish

[DeValency]

Originally Posted by paul2884

On simular lines we have light oak wood below decks and generaly its pritty tidy but just starting to show scratches in places, i dont realy want to re-varnish the whole thing.

What i really need is somthing i can put on like french polish with a cloth so i can just do the areas that need a bit of attension, i cant do this with a brush as they will show up. i could use one of the wax type furnature "repair" systems but then should i decide to varnish in a few years time the varnish won't stick.

I’m using Bona cleaner/refresher with a soft microfiber cloth for such areas. It is mild, no residue and it keep surfaces bright and clean. Available at any store and online.

[Karel Deppe]

Originally Posted by Hardhead

That's good to know. I've been using TotalBoat varnish, and it's not a cheap, but it's reasonable, and pretty good as well.

To anyone using varnish a lot - how have you been keeping the varnish from skinning over in the can, from a partial use? I've been using a product called "Bloxygen" - which works well, but it's somewhat pricey. Are there any good alternative methods anyone knows of?

This summer I had to do quite some varnishing in Greece where it can be hot. After one coat and two days curing I wanted to do the second coat and found quite some skinning.
After the second coat I kept the tin in the freezer, which is at about minus 4 Celsius. The effect is great. No skin and I applied the cold varnish. The varnish was flowing slower and I could apply a lot more on the second and third coat. From now on I keep my varnish in the freezer.

[Flextron]

You stop paint and varnish skimming over by storming the tin on its lid

[Calif.Ted]

Originally Posted by paul2884

On simular lines we have light oak wood below decks and generaly its pritty tidy but just starting to show scratches in places, i dont realy want to re-varnish the whole thing.

What i really need is somthing i can put on like french polish with a cloth so i can just do the areas that need a bit of attension, i cant do this with a brush as they will show up. i could use one of the wax type furnature "repair" systems but then should i decide to varnish in a few years time the varnish won't stick.

There is a wipe-on polyurethane I've used to touch up louvered interior cabinet doors. Incredibly easy to use, like a wipe on oil finish.
https://www.minwax.com/wood-products...x-wipe-on-poly
I'm a big fan of disposable foam brushes, and instead of sanding use synthetic steel wool between coats.

[thlamers]

Have spent a lot of time varnishing and have decided to cut down on this by switching to Perfection Yacht Varnish, a two part polyurethane. It is a lot of effort to purchase, mix and apply but it seems to hold up for about five years in direct sun so I put up with the application effort. In the longer run it may be less expensive.

Biggest issue is the "drying window" which is a bit longer than conventional varnishes but this varies with the temperature. You definitely want to get it on as soon as the dew is gone and perhaps cover it for the first night to avoid the possibility of blushing. Three coats from bare wood recommended


Tom LaMers

[Poche]

Originally Posted by thlamers

Have spent a lot of time varnishing and have decided to cut down on this by switching to Perfection Yacht Varnish, a two part polyurethane. It is a lot of effort to purchase, mix and apply but it seems to hold up for about five years in direct sun so I put up with the application effort. In the longer run it may be less expensive.

Biggest issue is the "drying window" which is a bit longer than conventional varnishes but this varies with the temperature. You definitely want to get it on as soon as the dew is gone and perhaps cover it for the first night to avoid the possibility of blushing. Three coats from bare wood recommended


Tom LaMers

That would be incredible if three coats of anything lasted more than two years. Especially on teak.
Are you talking about up north four month seasons of direct sun or southern all year around?
How does it compare by appearance to a decent varnish job? Can you see the wood at all?

[thlamers]

Perfection Yacht Varnish is water clear without the typical orange colorants. It is a full gloss like LPU paints and it holds this gloss for many years in year-round sun. I live at 40 degrees north. It is somewhat rubbery compared to the automotive clearcoats which are brittle.



When it is new the native wood color is perfect. I have noticed over many years the natural wood color may appear to fade so apparently is does not filter out the wavelengths which can cause bleaching. It can be applied over stained woods but only with great care to assure the stain does not leave a residue which interferes with bonding. Might look for dyes rather than oil based stains.


I have applied it over teak with perfect results and did wipe the teak with acetone prior to the first coat.


Tom

[David M]

Teak colored paint will last you many times over than what the best varnish will last because U/V light will not penetrate paint. Most people will never notice....honestly.

I did and never regretted it.

Isn't it better to be out on the water than sanding and varnishing almost constantly? Being a slave to who? If someone does notice they won't care. Who are we trying to impress then? So in the end, aren't we varnishing just to impress ourselves? Hell, go sailing instead.

[nhschneider]

Originally Posted by thlamers

Have spent a lot of time varnishing and have decided to cut down on this by switching to Perfection Yacht Varnish, a two part polyurethane. It is a lot of effort to purchase, mix and apply but it seems to hold up for about five years in direct sun so I put up with the application effort. In the longer run it may be less expensive.

Biggest issue is the "drying window" which is a bit longer than conventional varnishes but this varies with the temperature. You definitely want to get it on as soon as the dew is gone and perhaps cover it for the first night to avoid the possibility of blushing. Three coats from bare wood recommended


Tom LaMers

We started using Perfection Plus when we were in Trinidad as we found that it would dry quickly enough that the frequent squalls wouldn’t ruin the finish. We also found it tricky to work with but after several attempts we got it right. However, three years later we stripped it back down to bare wood and applied five coats of the same stuff. The finish is beautiful and perfectly clear.

Fair winds and calm seas.

[Poche]

Originally Posted by David M

Teak colored paint will last you many times over than what the best varnish will last because U/V light will not penetrate paint. Most people will never notice....honestly.

I did and never regretted it.

Isn't it better to be out on the water than sanding and varnishing almost constantly? Being a slave to who? If someone does notice they won't care. Who are we trying to impress then? So in the end, aren't we varnishing just to impress ourselves? Hell, go sailing instead.

This is the way I am going. The teak toe rails have worn down over the last fifty years so that a few screw heads are showing and/or will not hold plugs. Still solid. I don't want to spend the money to replace the rails with new teak to impress anyone and would rather go sailing.

[DeValency]

Originally Posted by Poche

This is the way I am going. The teak toe rails have worn down over the last fifty years so that a few screw heads are showing and/or will not hold plugs. Still solid. I don't want to spend the money to replace the rails with new teak to impress anyone and would rather go sailing.

Not sure why would anyone PAINT over teak. It is a beautiful wood when well maintained and paint may not hold well anyway, due to the high level of natural oil in the teak.

Some of us, like me also enjoy sailing a beautiful unique boat over the common gelcoat anti skewed and hence trying to find the optimal varnish that will last longer, keep the original look and feel of the wood (teak deck in my case),by eliminating salt, dust etc. penetration and simplify washing.
Just a matter of a personal taste and pride in your precious boat....

[Giro]

I’m a bit surprised that no one commented on my question that I politely asked a few days ago. Is it too nieve to ask if varnish is mandatory to apply to new teak or can I simply create a schedule of applying hand rubbed oil every 2, 4, 6 months or so? Is my question too stupid for anyone to respond to?

[DeValency]

Originally Posted by Giro

I’m a bit surprised that no one commented on my question that I politely asked a few days ago. Is it too nieve to ask if varnish is mandatory to apply to new teak or can I simply create a schedule of applying hand rubbed oil every 2, 4, 6 months or so? Is my question too stupid for anyone to respond to?

Teak basically need no varnish or coating. It is a naturally oily wood that can last for many years - my decks are 28 years old - if treated well:
• most important - keep it clean with soft pad
• I wouldn’t recommend “teak oil” but suggest teak sealer. Easy to apply. My best results so far were with Senco golden tone.
- on a very old and somewhat damaged teak I would recommend 20% water diluted water based varnish (never never a mineral based) over the sealer. I have been testing Total Boat water based varnish recently and so far the results are great. But need to be reviewed over 3-6-12 months intervals under the sun and elements.

If you can cover the boat (I do, when away from the boat over a month) it is a great way to maintain the teak deck finish for longer periods.

And again - good cleaning with mild detergents is the most important.

Best of luck

[Giro]

DeValency’s comments are appreciated. The only question that I would ask is if the Senco sealer should be applied every few months in order to maintain the protection it provides. The boat is berthed in an uncovered slip at a marina in Monterey Bay California which maintains a mild air temperature of 57 to 69 degrees year round (day and night). Thanks again.

[DeValency]

Originally Posted by Giro

DeValency’s comments are appreciated. The only question that I would ask is if the Senco sealer should be applied every few months in order to maintain the protection it provides. The boat is berthed in an uncovered slip at a marina in Monterey Bay California which maintains a mild air temperature of 57 to 69 degrees year round (day and night). Thanks again.

The sealer I used is called SEMCO. Well known in the community.

Intervals... it depends in quite few factors. How dry is your teak to start with and the level of solar radiation, humidity, rains etc. In St. Lucia where my cruising boat is right now the sealer maintains the teak good look for 4-6 months at exposed uncovered areas. The conditions there are really bad - very high radiation and temps, dusty rain (containing sand arriving all the way from the Sahara...) etc. Can’t wait to bring the boat to her home in Boston.

You need to start with two coats of a sealer and watch the results and over time.

As my teak is 28 years old and has not been well treated by the original owners I plan on adding a water based varnish for enhanced protection. You may not need that.

Nitzan (DeValency)