A good inexpensive varnish

[Poche]

Originally Posted by SVTatia

I don't understand why you want to paint after your repair rather than use a stain.

I'm removing the delaminated and discolored areas of the veneer and fairing with West Systems. Those areas get primed and painted because they don't take a stain. The rest I am removing the original varnish, lightly sanding, stain and then plan to varnish the entire area. The only areas of delamination are under the ports and on the top edges of the bulkheads.
This is more of a renovation or improvement not a restoration to original. As long as it is somewhat presentable, I'll be happy and go sailing.

[SVTatia]

Originally Posted by Poche

I'm removing the delaminated and discolored areas of the veneer and fairing with West Systems. Those areas get primed and painted because they don't take a stain. The rest I am removing the original varnish, lightly sanding, stain and then plan to varnish the entire area. The only areas of delamination are under the ports and on the top edges of the bulkheads.
This is more of a renovation or improvement not a restoration to original. As long as it is somewhat presentable, I'll be happy and go sailing.

One other option to fix the delaminated areas is to re-veneer. I know they will be different from the adjacent wood, but it can still work if it is consistent around all ports. You could even change the grain direction to make it distinguishable. The challenge will be to make it consistent around all ports. But if you are careful when removing the affected areas you could apply the new ones with contact cement without any problems.

https://www.veneersupplies.com/categ..._Wood__Veneer/

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Poche

That presents a quandary, then.
A lot of this boat's interior was constructed with teak veneer on plywood. Over the years water leaks have damaged smaller areas. I would like to repair those areas rather than replace the entire veneer sections. After the repair I would like to paint those areas and match the color with the teak as closely as I can. And then varnish.
Where can I get oil base paint formulated to match the teak? The stores have hundreds of shades they can formulate for latex but only a few basic shades of oil based paint in stock these days. Maybe only a dark brown is available.
I thought about just painting over everything with white but I really would like to save as much of the wood look as possible.

Here's a thought. I don't know how big those water damaged areas are, or how your expertise is, but I have repaired cracked/broken guitars to match perfectly. It takes patience. I'm no expert, but here's what I do:
After filling those bad areas with Epoxy.
(BTW, after filling, sanding the epoxy flush can cause damage as you sand through the veneer in the process! I use a flat board and wax paper over the fill until hard to attempt to get the epoxy to fill flat with little sanding.)

Finish matching on guitars:
-I try to match the color by buying a few of those small cans of various types of hardware store stain. I have even used a water based stain let it dry completely before varnishing though.
-I just wipe it on thin with a rag or with a 3/4" brush lightly a thin layer at a time. Stand back and look at the effect. Add more if necessary, wipe off if it's not coming out right! change colors. Try a layer etc.
-Work at it to match in a few subsequent coats.
-On one I used dark walnut followed by red mahoghany, wiped on and then wiped mostly off while still wet... and it matched perfect red/brown after I was done.
-This is the key, layer different stain colors to get a match. Layer on, layer off.
-For teak, I would try a teak stain, then depending on how that match is maybe something darker over. Wipe the dark on then wipe most of it off just leaving a thin opaque layer. Or reverse that, teak last.
-If there are wood swirls or grain lines, get an Artist Brush kit with tiny brushes. Brush on those lines/swirls to look right with an appropriate color. (Often dark brown stain)
- then coat the effected are with whatever varnish finish you intend.

If I can do it on a guitar so it can't be seen , you can do it adequate for a bulkhead!

The other option is consider painting those bulkheads etc a nice creamy white satin finish. That looks very nice on boats anyway. Is forgiving, and filling the damaged areas is easier if overcoating opaque. Some people prefer it.

[Poche]

Originally Posted by SVTatia

One other option to fix the delaminated areas is to re-veneer. I know they will be different from the adjacent wood, but it can still work if it is consistent around all ports. You could even change the grain direction to make it distinguishable. The challenge will be to make it consistent around all ports. But if you are careful when removing the affected areas you could apply the new ones with contact cement without any problems.

https://www.veneersupplies.com/categ..._Wood__Veneer/

As I said, replacing the veneer is not on the table.

[Poche]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Here's a thought. I don't know how big those water damaged areas are, or how your expertise is, but I have repaired cracked/broken guitars to match perfectly. It takes patience. I'm no expert, but here's what I do:
After filling those bad areas with Epoxy.
(BTW, after filling, sanding the epoxy flush can cause damage as you sand through the veneer in the process! I use a flat board and wax paper over the fill until hard to attempt to get the epoxy to fill flat with little sanding.)

Finish matching on guitars:
-I try to match the color by buying a few of those small cans of various types of hardware store stain. I have even used a water based stain let it dry completely before varnishing though.
-I just wipe it on thin with a rag or with a 3/4" brush lightly a thin layer at a time. Stand back and look at the effect. Add more if necessary, wipe off if it's not coming out right! change colors. Try a layer etc.
-Work at it to match in a few subsequent coats.
-On one I used dark walnut followed by red mahoghany, wiped on and then wiped mostly off while still wet... and it matched perfect red/brown after I was done.
-This is the key, layer different stain colors to get a match. Layer on, layer off.
-For teak, I would try a teak stain, then depending on how that match is maybe something darker over. Wipe the dark on then wipe most of it off just leaving a thin opaque layer. Or reverse that, teak last.
-If there are wood swirls or grain lines, get an Artist Brush kit with tiny brushes. Brush on those lines/swirls to look right with an appropriate color. (Often dark brown stain)
- then coat the effected are with whatever varnish finish you intend.

If I can do it on a guitar so it can't be seen , you can do it adequate for a bulkhead!

The other option is consider painting those bulkheads etc a nice creamy white satin finish. That looks very nice on boats anyway. Is forgiving, and filling the damaged areas is easier if overcoating opaque. Some people prefer it.

If I were to be restoring the boat to original I would take that all to heart but I am not. The objective is to get rid of the delaminated and water stained areas, make it look somewhat presentable and move on. I have a lot of work to accomplish dealing with 30 years of neglect (only owned the boat for 6 months now).
Even so, I would never want a boat that looks like a guitar or piano top, no offense intended. I'm just not that careful of a user. My ultimate boat would be a work boat, rough and ready.
I know I can live with generic brown areas in the bulkheads and under ports. I just thought while I'm going to do the work anyway try to match as well as reasonably possible.

[SVTatia]

Originally Posted by Poche

If I were to be restoring the boat to original I would take that all to heart but I am not. The objective is to get rid of the delaminated and water stained areas, make it look somewhat presentable and move on. I have a lot of work to accomplish dealing with 30 years of neglect (only owned the boat for 6 months now).
Even so, I would never want a boat that looks like a guitar or piano top, no offense intended. I'm just not that careful of a user. My ultimate boat would be a work boat, rough and ready.
I know I can live with generic brown areas in the bulkheads and under ports. I just thought while I'm going to do the work anyway try to match as well as reasonably possible.

Well Poche, I think you got more than enough suggestions which were promptly discarded. Now its up to you to do whatever you choose and move on. Good luck.

Now back to main topic perhaps?

[Poche]

Originally Posted by SVTatia

Well Poche, I think you got more than enough suggestions which were promptly discarded.

Nothing is discarded. This forum is a trove of information for everybody to see and choose what best suits them. That's the whole idea.
Nobody has the same project or questions.

[SVTatia]

Originally Posted by Poche

Nothing is discarded. This forum is a trove of information for everybody to see and choose what best suits them. That's the whole idea.
Nobody has the same project or questions.

You bet! Totally agree.

[Poche]

Originally Posted by SVTatia

You bet! Totally agree.

Then, If you really believe that the posts are for everyone's benefit, why do you criticize me for "discarding" the advice?

[Giro]

Everybody take a deep breath and reflect on the great times we’ve experienced on our sailing vessels. And, our future adventures as well.

[Poche]

Originally Posted by Giro

Everybody take a deep breath and reflect on the great times we’ve experienced on our sailing vessels. And, our future adventures as well.

Sure, no problem. It just boggles my mind that someone gets on a public forum to give advice and then gets their feelings hurt and singles out a particular person who doesn't follow it. SMH.

[Poche]

Originally Posted by sailorchic34

Having used epiphanes for a number of years, I have found that the McCluskey varnish is at least as good, if not better.

For what it's worth I tried McCloskeys semi-gloss varnish today. It flattened out decently, no runs on a vertical. Nice stuff. (see...I do heed advice on here).
It was $35 a quart delivered to my door including the 10% sales tax. Epifanes is selling nearby at West Marine for $45 a quart plus tax and a drive to pick it up.
I have never used Epifanes. I have used Captain's and Schooner. McCloskey went on as well if not better.
My county in California restricts sales by VOC. You can't buy varnish around here except West Marine. I think they pay an added penalty to carry it.
Yesterday, I drove three hours round trip just to pick up topside enamel and gloss Topside Spar varnish in Oceanside, CA. from a big box. It saved me $200 after fuel expense instead of buying at WM.
There were other items on the shelf down there that you cannot buy here at the big boxes.