Advice removing bolts/screws

[wholybee]

Advice removing the screws shown. First question, where can I find a bit that fits? The slot is 3/4" long by 3/32" wide.

Once I have the correct bit, I believe these are set in 5200 from Morgan. Hopefully not. I can just barely reach the nuts on the other side. I can't see them. I expect I can get a short breaker bar on them, but no chance of turning the nut, or getting any other tools there.

How to address the 5200? I know there is debonder, but how does that work if you can't get to the 5200 that it needs applied to? I have been told heat will work.

Reason for removing, I can tell from feeling the nuts from the reverse side there is significant rust, at least the nuts, not sure of the bolts.

[markxengineerin]

I use this set for things like that
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/115143704626
way overpriced even for snap-on, but maybe you can find an individual bit of the size you need

For 5200, I have found that hardware comes apart pretty easily despite being coated in it. Possibly it doesn't stick to polished stainless steel very well.

[MarkSF]

I would have thought you'd have more luck turning the nuts, than the screws.


Why can't you get a socket on them, and socket wrench? How about a ratchet wrench?

[wholybee]

Thanks. I learned from that link that what I need is a "Drag Link Socket", and they are easy to find once searching for that, including individually from Snap-On at not to expensive for just the one socket.

I hope you are right on the 5200. I'm worried because on the Morgan Forum several have given up and left them.

[wholybee]

Originally Posted by MarkSF

I would have thought you'd have more luck turning the nuts, than the screws.


Why can't you get a socket on them, and socket wrench? How about a ratchet wrench?

I can get a socket on them. But there isn't room to turn the ratchet handle. Being in the "V" of the bow, it is quite narrow. And not able to fit an extension either(maybe I could with a pair of universal joints, but I doubt I could apply much torque then). So I put the socket on, with a breaker bar because that is more stable than a ratchet, and will need to turn the screws.

[markxengineerin]

Great, glad you found something. If you have an impact screwdriver such as the one in the set, it also helps tremendously. The combination of hammering and torquing at the same instant puts a lot of torque on the screw at the same time as the bit is forced "down" so that there is minimal chance of rounding off the screw, and much better grip than you could get with any other type of tool. I would also spray consistently with some penetrating oil from both sides and just keep whacking. Sometimes it can take 10/15 minutes but I've yet to have a boat rigging screw not eventually come unstuck this way. It would be better if you could hold the nut more rigidly, but still will be beneficial tool

[Spot]

Wondering if a stainless bar tapped with 4 threaded holes for the new hardware and flat head machine screws with a socket cap (Allen wrench) would be an alternative for re-assembly.

I have been told here that 5200 lets go of metal with a little heat.

[wholybee]

Originally Posted by markxengineerin

Great, glad you found something. If you have an impact screwdriver such as the one in the set, it also helps tremendously. The combination of hammering and torquing at the same instant puts a lot of torque on the screw at the same time as the bit is forced "down" so that there is minimal chance of rounding off the screw, and much better grip than you could get with any other type of tool. I would also spray consistently with some penetrating oil from both sides and just keep whacking. Sometimes it can take 10/15 minutes but I've yet to have a boat rigging screw not eventually come unstuck this way. It would be better if you could hold the nut more rigidly, but still will be beneficial tool

Good advice. I do have an impact but a cheap 3/8" drive. If a breaker bar on the bit i ordered doesn't cut it, the Snap On kit might be worth it.

[wholybee]

Originally Posted by Spot

Wondering if a stainless bar tapped with 4 threaded holes for the new hardware and flat head machine screws with a socket cap (Allen wrench) would be an alternative for re-assembly.

I have been told here that 5200 lets go of metal with a little heat.

Ill probably replace the bolts with torx. They grip well and don't slip.

A threaded bar is an interesting idea, but not needed. A can reach the nuts and hold them from turning. I just can't turn them.

[JPA Cate]

Do try some "weasel piss" (equal parts automatic transmission fluid and acetone) on the nuts and it will wick down the threads, some.

When it comes time to reassemble, use some good anti-seize on the threads, and use your favourite caulking to keep water from coming in. If that is where your anchor locker is, then you will always have salt in there. I hope you don't have any crevice corrosion there.

Ann

[wholybee]

Originally Posted by JPA Cate

I hope you don't have any crevice corrosion there.

Ann

I hope so too. But checking for it is why I am taking it apart.