Aluminum bowsprit paint (finish)

[LeeV]

I have a piece of aluminum pipe 6061 T6 to replace my bent bowsprit, but I’m not sure how to finish it. I’d like it to look nice but don’t want to refinish it every year. Any recommendations that have had great results?

Thx!

[Spot]

Is it already on the boat?
Could it be taken off to be anodized?

[Cheechako]

I would leave it bare or have it anodized. Any non aluminum attachments up there on the bow are going to bubble up paint fast.

[LeeV]

Originally Posted by Spot

Is it already on the boat?
Could it be taken off to be anodized?

Hmmm, should have added that. 😀 Brand new from the warehouse custom cut - bare metal.

I’ve read arguments for anodizing vs paint vs labor vs cost.... which is why I wanted to hear of some good real world results from the forum.

[Cheechako]

So, I had a mast rebuilt/new rigging in Annapolis by a highly touted place. The job cost $16k 20 years ago. Complete strip, acid wash, prime and paint. Within a year sailing offshore the paint on lower 6 feet of the mast was bubbling. Anodizing helps a lot, but if it's not a big expensive piece of metal, just bare will last long enough. Then buy another one in 10 years.

[boatman1]

Flame spray/thermal coating is hands down the most durable treatment available. For all intents & purposes the surface after this process is analogous to hot dipped galvanizing on steel.. Whether it’s economically viable in these days and times must be determined. There is (or was, several years ago) a business in Chesapeake Virginia that does this work.

[Orion Jim]

Anodize it and forget it. It’s only boat money......

[captlloyd]

Powdercoat would be a option.

[SteveSadler]

Vinyl wrap? It's cheap, easy to install and very durable.

[Exctyengr]

I have no experience in treating aluminum in a marine environment. I can, however, discuss treating aluminum on aircraft: coat with Alodine, let dry, two coats of zinc chromate and then paint. I did learn that Jamestown Distributors has an epoxy coating that they claim is for aluminum in a marine environment. You might want to look into that. Be careful with fastenings. If you use 316 ss bolts, for example they need to be insulated from the aluminum or you can increase the risk of galvanic corrosion

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by captlloyd

Powdercoat would be a option.

One small flaw or crack in the finish - and there will be one - and it will start to lift off of the aluminum.

6061 aluminum left bare and isolated from other metals will last virtually forever.

There is a good reason that most aluminum boats are left bare.

[LeeV]

Powder: did that years ago on a tiller for my Condor 40 trimaran. Lasted 3months before the nicks and chips got to me.

For the bi-metal issue I’ve found that cutting a footprint out of electrical tape to match the attachment and Tefgel under that works well.

The Flame system sounds similar to anodizing; will look it up.

Thx all.

[Boatyarddog]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

So, I had a mast rebuilt/new rigging in Annapolis by a highly touted place. The job cost $16k 20 years ago. Complete strip, acid wash, prime and paint. Within a year sailing offshore the paint on lower 6 feet of the mast was bubbling. Anodizing helps a lot, but if it's not a big expensive piece of metal, just bare will last long enough. Then buy another one in 10 years.

Could it be the repairs were not coated with Tuf Gel at the fittings when it was reassembled?
Dissimilar metals are usually the culprit.
Boom attachments are often riveted in place, as well other hardware.
If the mast isn't stripped under those attachments, you can bet corrosion is under them, and will continue its relentless attacks to anything coated against them.
Who removes all the fittings from a mast before stripping and
Recoating. Few is my belief.
Mast Tangs, End Caps, pin covers, bails, spinnaker rings, using SS rivets or SS bolts will continue to corrode, and bubble.
Possibly, lack of proper bonding can accelerate this process as well.
SV Cloud Duster

[rickpyne]

Just polish the aluminium . Then you can see any oxidising as the peice ages... it can stay polished of years after light oxidation.

[Manateeman]

Sand wash alodine zinc chromate good quality oil paint. Easy to repair.
Boat stuff two part toxic shiny difficult to apply impossible to repair.
Bare. Too hot to stand. Clear coating + polishing .Can’t see, blind.
Ceramic-Kote turbo, inside 316 seacocks.
Epoxy. Great for bottom, covering ground down welds.
Oil paint deck fine.
Mylar film under stainless. Tef-Gel...more Tef-Gel.
Happy boatbuilding read pro boat.
Mark, exhausted manatee.