Anti seize or loctite on chainplate bolts?

[darc427]

Hi all, I’m replacing the chainplates in my 1977 45’ Fuji. Should I put anything on the chainplate bolts? Thanks, Aaron…pic of original plate and bolt

[garyfdl]

I'm not familiar with your setup, but my chainplates are through bolted, with self-locking (Nylock) nuts.

I would think you would not want to use anti/never seize. The point of that product is to make sure you can disassemble at a later date; you won't/shouldn't be disassembling your chainplates on a regular basis.

If you use Locktite, use the blue not the red! The blue can be broken loose with hand tools (or better yet an impact gun). Red requires heat, lots of it, as in torch. Not a particularly good idea around wood and/fiberglass (IMO).

[darc427]

Yes I was thinking of using the blue kind. It’s a “top hat frame” where the backing plate is behind the fiberglass and threaded for the chainplate bolts. Wasn’t sure if I should put anything on the bolts at all…

[garyfdl]

Originally Posted by darc427

Yes I was thinking of using the blue kind. It’s a “top hat frame” where the backing plate is behind the fiberglass and threaded for the chainplate bolts. Wasn’t sure if I should put anything on the bolts at all…

If there is enough engagement (at least 1 bolt diameter) in the female thread, you could just go with split lock-washers.

I'd suggest cleaning the bolt threads with a wire brush on a drill or bench buffer/grinder. For the female threads use a gun cleaning 'bore brush' in a drill. Get a copper one, not stainless steel. After cleaning, I'd give 'em' a squirt of brake cleaner, contact cleaner, medicinal alcohol - or something that won't leave a residue.