Any idea who makes these motor mounts?

[Halifax Sailor]

Hi all,
winter project, long over due before i bought the boat. Motor is Yanmar YSB 8, circa 1980. One pic shows original with replacement Yanmar mount, other shows just mount in place, quite possibly original mount. Any ideas who made the mounts? Would like to just replace mount for mount so alignment is not so big an issue.

[Boatyarddog]

Just use the replacement mounts, and check the alignment.
Because once you remove the mount your alignment will NEVER the same, it's not really that difficult to do.


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[Halifax Sailor]

the new mounts are much lower, in my mind that puts the whole "drivetrain at a much lower angle and will that affect the cutless bearing angle as well?

[Sailmonkey]

That new mount you have is not going to work....it's much too short.

Try mounts from PYI. Just get the basic dimensions before you order them.


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[brantleychuck]

The instructions on my beta 50 install asked that when all was in alignment the motor mounts were nearer the bottom of there adjustment range to reduce vibration.


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[Boatyarddog]

Agreed the studs look short here, there is a visible rise here too,
so it could be an illusion.
If you want to you can shim under these if you really want to use these mounts.


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[Boatyarddog]

If you can, return them and get the proper studs, a lot of Yanmars have much softer mounts and use a different density one on the torquing side.
Probably a mute point on such a small hp. Diesel.
They do vibrate a lot at idle, not so much at running speed.


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[Cadence]

Originally Posted by Halifax Sailor

Hi all,
winter project, long over due before i bought the boat. Motor is Yanmar YSB 8, circa 1980. One pic shows original with replacement Yanmar mount, other shows just mount in place, quite possibly original mount. Any ideas who made the mounts? Would like to just replace mount for mount so alignment is not so big an issue.

I have no factual info.. Have you looked at Lord? They have/had been making mounts for years

[jimbunyard]

Pretty sure that's a Volvo 876597, but Boatyard is right. Check the durometer recommended by Yanmar, get a mount with that (those) ratings, and block it up to the proper height if the stud's not long enough. It's best to have the engine mounted as close to the mount as possible.

[deblen]

Vetus Type K40 Flexible Engine Mount


http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/brow...nts/2,665.html

[Halifax Sailor]

SO..................when you say block it up to the right height, do you mean add a "hardwood" block on each side to bring the motor mount up higher? i see how that would do it BUT if the wood foundation gets taller, does it cause less stability to the engine? and if not then just bolt/screw the addition or once in place reinforce with fiberglass?

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by Halifax Sailor

SO..................when you say block it up to the right height, do you mean add a "hardwood" block on each side to bring the motor mount up higher? i see how that would do it BUT if the wood foundation gets taller, does it cause less stability to the engine? and if not then just bolt/screw the addition or once in place reinforce with fiberglass?

Buy some shim stock bronze. If it is a bunch use oak. Just make sure you are lagged into the stingers.

[Halifax Sailor]

prob only about 1-2 inches needed to make new yanmar mounts work. so full length along the stringers? lag bolts to ensure good hold and then check alignment?

[jimbunyard]

Originally Posted by Halifax Sailor

SO..................when you say block it up to the right height, do you mean add a "hardwood" block on each side to bring the motor mount up higher? i see how that would do it BUT if the wood foundation gets taller, does it cause less stability to the engine? and if not then just bolt/screw the addition or once in place reinforce with fiberglass?

I normally use some kind of engineering plastic, UHMW or the like, cutoffs can be had from Ebay for a few dollars. I through drill the block so the motor mount clamps the block to the stringer, in your case I would use a galvanized or stainless lag screw the length you have now, plus the thickness of the block and 1/2" - 1" extra, if you use the same holes. If you make new holes, screws the same length plus the thickness of the block should be sufficient (unless the existing lag screws are inordinately short). Pilot holes for new screws should be drilled , but that can be difficult or impossible with the engine in place.

Regarding stability, it appears that the existing stringers are about 3 inch thick pine or maybe fir. If you make the blocks the same width as the stringer and make sure they're clamped well with the mounting lags, stability won't be an issue. The stringer under the rusty mount looks oil or fuel saturated; fiberglass probably won't stick unless you do some serious grinding first, the other stringer might be able to be glassed with the proper preparation. In my opinion, unless you want to redo the whole engine bed it would be best not to glass the existing stingers because you'd be making places to trap moisture, which encourages wood to rot. You might consider epoxying the blocks to the top of the stringer (if you used wood blocks), everything has to be clean and dry for it to make any difference, but if the mounts are screwed through the spacing blocks securely into the stringers, it won't make any difference if they're glued or not.

No need to go full length from mount to mount along the top, just a block matching the footprint of the mount is fine, plus it preserves access under the engine.

[Nicholson58]

Originally Posted by Halifax Sailor

Hi all,
winter project, long over due before i bought the boat. Motor is Yanmar YSB 8, circa 1980. One pic shows original with replacement Yanmar mount, other shows just mount in place, quite possibly original mount. Any ideas who made the mounts? Would like to just replace mount for mount so alignment is not so big an issue.

They look like Berry Isolators. Many makers of nearly identical mounts. You can also look in McMaster Carr, Reid Tool (Essentra Components), and Grainger.