[B]REPAIRING CRACKS IN BOWSPRIT[/B]

[Sharkbait Steve]

Hello, I replaced my bowsprit about 10 months ago. The wood I used was Sapodilla (which is strong, insect and rot resistant but prone to splitting) and was quite green. I was in Central America and the old spirit was in bad shape so.... I did not finish the bowsprit then as I wanted to give it a chance to dry out first. I wrapped it in towels and kept it wet for several months to slow the drying process. I'm ready to finish it now. I plan to oil it with teak oil. It has developed some cracks or splits that I would like to fill first. My question is: What should I use to fill these cracks? Thickened expoxy? Thickened Titebond glue? Caulk of some kind? I really like an oil finish but whatever I fill the cracks with must be compatible. Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated!!!

[Benz]

You can get epoxy thickeners in colors to match; I use black in cracks when making furniture, since the cream color of cabosil or white of microballoons isn't as elegant. I make my own black by pounding charcoal into powder and mixing it with epoxy.
Since the epoxy isn't structural, eventual UV degradation shouldn't matter much: the oil finish will be fine.

[s/v Jedi]

Is the bowsprit installed?

Epoxy is the right product. It would be best to get it all the way down into the cracks, i.e. on a workbench, not installed.

With a crack facing up, heat it with a heat gun (not so hot that it discolors, but get some heat into the crack), then pour some unthickened epoxy mixed with hardener in the crack. Don’t fill it up all the way, this is to get down and stop the crack from creeping further. Use a small brush to coat the whole inside of the cracks.

Do all the cracks, then let cure for a couple hours so that nothing drips out anymore (wipe drips away with a rag and denatured alcohol).

Now you need to fill the rest of the cracks. Everyone says to mix in sawdust to color it… I find it becomes darker then the wood, but that may be okay. Mix epoxy with hardener, then first add Cabosil (colloidal silica, fumed silica) to thicken it to peanut butter consistency, the. Add some sawdust to color it. Try to fill it without air pockets.

After cure, a scrub with water, sanding and alcohol wipe, finish with oil, varnish etc.

Edit: the heat is to prevent air bubbles. Also, as it cools down, the epoxy is sucked in better.

[tkeithlu]

Excellent explanation, Jedi. I'm tucking that one into my memory bank for future use.

[Sharkbait Steve]

Thank you VERY MUCH for the response and advice. With luck, we're getting hauled tomorrow. Now I can proceed with confidence!!!

[Sharkbait Steve]

Thank you SV Jedi for the detailed instructions. I intend to follow your advice exactly. With luck, we're getting hauled tomorrow. We were considering pulling the sprit anyway as we were rushed during the initial installation and we're not entirely happy with the way the hardware is bedded. We'll remedy that, fill the cracks (per your instructions) and apply the teak oil. Can hardly wait to see the results!!!