Barrier Coat Above Jack Stands

[colemj]

What is all this moving stands stuff to barrier coat and paint???

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by colemj

What is all this moving stands stuff to barrier coat and paint???

Yah, you better strap it to the ground or she'll fly away haha.
(typical Panama Shelter Bay humor)

cheers and cu tonight Mark,
Nick.

[bene505]

I know of only one marina where I got permission to move stands, with the advice "just don't move them all at once". I do a lot of boat work so the manager felt comfortable. However, I went and found an expert and got a lesson on how to move them. (There are many steps/nuances, involving chain tensioning and which way to point the longer leg, for instance.) Then I moved them with the expert by my side, while he corrected me.

So even if you have permission, it's not something to be taken lightly. (And I'm an engineer and could diagram each and every force involved.) Best to spend the money and have the marina move them.

As for the barrier coat, you don't have to recoat the entire hull. Just sand the spots where the stands were, so the next layer sticks. The instructions to apply the next coat within XX days are for if you aren't sanding. (And I always clean the area with Xylene too. Not sure you have to, the instructions might say something different too.)

Note this last time, I took a dried/hardened block of barrier coat, viced it into a workmate vice, and sanded it. I caught the sandings/powder in a paper bag. (The spinning sanding wheel doesn't affect the paper bag that much when it contacts it.)

I added the powder to a batch of barrier coat and it made a great filler with the consistency of peanut butter. This helped to fill the very bottom of our iron keel. I think that normally barrier coat flows such that a void in the underside will get worse as the wet barrier coat flows down away from where you really want it, making the ridges around the void proportionately higher. Using this filler solved the problem.

Finally, watch your temperatures. If you have to launch early (or if you are launcing next week), you might want to invest in a cheap tarp to put around the areas you are coating. With some space heaters and masking tape (to hold the tarp up), you'll be able to heat-up the enclosure and get work done during colder weather. Barrier coat needs warm temperatures to cure, and you'll be putting on several coats. The difference between waiting an hour (in an 80 degree enclosure) and waiting a day (in a 60 degree enclosure) is dramatic. Or just wait until some dry days in spring.

Regards,
Brad

[colemj]

If you MUST use jack stands why not get an extra pair and just put them in place next to the ones you need to move? Once barrier coat or bottom paint kicks, a pad covered in plastic won't effect it (just don't crank them tight - they are only there to keep your boat from tipping, not hold it off the ground). Once one set is replaced, use the replaced set to replace the next set, etc...

This way all of the pad spots get exposed at once and you can do all of them at the same time.

Mark

[Blue Stocking]

Originally Posted by colemj

If you MUST use jack stands why not get an extra pair and just put them in place next to the ones you need to move? Once barrier coat or bottom paint kicks, a pad covered in plastic won't effect it (just don't crank them tight - they are only there to keep your boat from tipping, not hold it off the ground). Once one set is replaced, use the replaced set to replace the next set, etc...

This way all of the pad spots get exposed at once and you can do all of them at the same time.

Mark

Exactly--standard practice in my yard.

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by Ziggy

So I had my bottom sodablasted to remove multiple layers of antifouling paint. Under the antifouling was a layer of barrier coat that apparently did a pretty good job of keeping the dreaded blisters away. Except that there are four patches, where the jackstands were located, that did not get barrier coat and got blistered .

So I'm going to repair the blisters and cover the bottom with Interprotect 2000 or 3000 (haven't decided which), but how do I ensure that the entire bottom gets covered? International Paint recommends that each new coat of paint be applied while the last coat is still tacky (4-5 coats are recommended plus antifouling). If I just move the pads to a new location, I'm affraid they will get stuck to the bottom . I suppose I could try covering them with a sheet of release fabric? Someone else must have figured this out.

Any suggestions?

It is not uncommon to slap-dash under the pads for a bottom paint job; you'll be back agin next year and at most there will be a few weeds. Soda blast and barrier coat is altogether different.

I would drag the contractor owner out there and ask him what he thinks about the situation. Does he think he did a good job? In my mind, HE needs to sand and patch those spots, since it is solely his fault that the stands were not moved on the first go.

While I've moved stands on catamarans (they just about can't tip on the hard) I wouldn't on a mono of any size; should a monster wind come up and something fails (a bad stand, another boat falls on yours, soft ground) you're in a tough liability spot. I've seen one boat take out a whole row.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by thinwater

I've seen one boat take out a whole row.

That's why you need to put multihulls in between the monohulls

ciao!
Nick.

[Seahunter]

What NV5L says.

[Nicholson58]

I have had boats in yards around the Great Lakes. Nobody ever cared if you moved your jacks. Present yard set the jacks after fall layup and told me to level it myself. (Torresens in Muskegon)

If your hull shape can permit it, I found a way to remove all below water line jacks. I borrowed four tall jacks from the same yard (no charge & they helped me load them on my truck to my remote work site) for about a week. I used two heavy chains and binders used on over the road trucks for securing loads. I made temporary tops for the jacks that I could wedge under the splash rail or coming detail. Chain from port to stbd stand under the keel. Chains and binders secure the jacks into the boat. Remove all short jacks and start throwing paint. Three days, 6 coats of Interprotect and 3 of VIVID.

Following summer we transported to Torresens and had them AWL GRIP the hull above water.

M-GO BLUE!

[Ziggy]

Thank you all for the replies. I think I'm going to put my 5 coats of Interprotect and the antifouling, but leave a ~2" stripe of exposed interprotect around the jackstands. Then move the jackstands to already painted areas and finish the interprotect, overlapping the 2" that were left exposed, and then apply the rest of the antifouling. I'll discuss moving the stands with the boatyard manager--I suspect they'll want to do it themselves. This still leaves the question of what to do about the bottom of the keel where it's sitting on the blocking. I suppose I could use the same procedure when it's hanging in the Travelift slings if they'd leave it that way over a weekend, otherwise I just won't worry about it.


Any thoughts on Interprotect 2000 vs 3000?