Barrier Coat - Interlux vs. Pettit

[Cthoops]

We'll be putting on a barrier coat this spring (four more hours of sanding and we'll be ready to go - just need the snow to melt first).

Pettit Protect Epoxy Primer 4700/4701 requires fewer coats than than Interlux Interprotect 2000E, and while I know it's the prep that takes most of the time (vs. the painting itself), fewer coats = fewer gallons = fewer $$$.

Has anyone on here actually used the Pettit, and have you been happy with it? Any pros/cons between the two (besides the cost) would be welcome. This is not a job that we want to do again.

Thanks.

[neilpride]

I don't have experience with the pettit primer, but a lot with the 2000E from interlux and lately with Tuff Stuff from Sea Hawk, those 2 work really well , I found the sea hawk primer a bit thicker than the 2000E, rule of the tumb for me, aply enough coats to reach the minimum thicknes advice from the paint manufacturer...just my opinion.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by neilpride

I don't have experience with the pettit primer, but a lot with the 2000E from interlux and lately with Tuff Stuff from Sea Hawk, those 2 work really well , I found the sea hawk primer a bit thicker than the 2000E, rule of the tumb for me, aply enough coats to reach the minimum thicknes advice from the paint manufacturer...just my opinion.

I hate Tuff Stuff, seen a lot of problems with it. Sea Hawk sucks.

[neilpride]

Originally Posted by minaret

I hate Tuff Stuff, seen a lot of problems with it. Sea Hawk sucks.

Ouch!! what kind of problems? smell the same, same colors, is thicker, don't flow really well with the roller , but overall the coverage is similar....I use it a couple of times, mainly because 2000E is out of stock in our place, one time to seal a Multihull epoxy job in the bottoms and the other in a Bavaria with a fairly dry hull. No complaints for the moment but you know better than me about this stuff as I see....Cheers.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by neilpride

Ouch!! what kind of problems? smell the same, same colors, is thicker, don't flow really well with the roller , but overall the coverage is similar....I use it a couple of times, mainly because 2000E is out of stock in our place, one time to seal a Multihull epoxy job in the bottoms and the other in a Bavaria with a fairly dry hull. No complaints for the moment but you know better than me about this stuff as I see....Cheers.

Most common problem is fisheyes when spraying. Rep has spent a great deal of time talking about it and trying to work it out. Basically the stated bond windows are BS. Seen several full failures, Sea Hawk paid to fix. Had to show them the employee's time cards to prove bond windows were carefully adhered to-unlike their product!! Their rep hates me now...


Long time boatyard employees hate it so much that I have seen them use white 2000e instead of Tuff Stuff, even when the work order states Tuff Stuff. Then the inventory guy gets confused and the rep comes to see me, the manager, about why his product isn't moving off our shelves.



I didn't think any coating could be more toxic and smelly than 2000, which actually eats oxygen out of the air and will therefore kill you dead in an enclosed space, but Tuff Stuff blows it out of the water. A real eye burner. Spraying it is a nightmare, even by airless as it is supposed to be done. Forced air only for sure.

[Scrimshaw4]

Sherwin Williams makes 2 part epoxy barrier coating that was originally developed for the Navy. Product name is Formula 150, Type III, N10V00350. It's MIL-DTL-24441D/20A & ... /20B Paint, Epoxy-Polyamide, Type III. It's available in 1 gallon cans. This stuff is outstanding. I previously had 2000E applied at the factory and it failed miserably within 7 years. 8 years after the Sherwin Williams and I'm as dry as the day it was applied!

[S/V Alchemy]

Originally Posted by Scrimshaw4

Sherwin Williams makes 2 part epoxy barrier coating that was originally developed for the Navy. Product name is Formula 150, Type III, N10V00350. It's MIL-DTL-24441D/20A & ... /20B Paint, Epoxy-Polyamide, Type III. It's available in 1 gallon cans. This stuff is outstanding. I previously had 2000E applied at the factory and it failed miserably within 7 years. 8 years after the Sherwin Williams and I'm as dry as the day it was applied!

Indeed. Having a steel full keeler, we have a lot to paint and different issues. We gravitate away from the "yachtie" stuff (we won't be racing!) to the more "industrial marine" brands. We use Pettit currently, but Endura on the topsides. We are considering Amercoat, but a fellow steel boat owner reports that he's been happy with "International Intersheild 300V ALU Epoxy. Antifoul is ablative, International Interspeed 6200NA.
International is the Big Boy brand paint, as opposed to their yachty Interlux paints."

I'm not saying price should trump performance, but if it's good enough to keep a sea buoy or an oil rig painted, it should be good enough for a boater.

[AD28]

Not surprised re: SeaHawk

Interprotect is good stuff: easy to use, inexpensive for what it is.

If you can get it, speaking of industrial coatings: I'm real pleased with Carboline, I have a line on it I'm not sure if it's generally available. it's a 1:1 proportion, if that helps the search

[dlblandjr]

I have used the Pettit 2 part bottom epoxy. I performed the work myself all by myself. Easily. I have a 50 year old FRP hull, full keel yacht. The keel and the rudder needed repairs so I decided to put the best bottom protection I could find on. I found the Pettit to be easy to mix, easy to apply using a cheap 1/4 nap roller.
The coverage was excellent, the product is available in white and dark grey , so I could tell (alternating colors) as I built up 5 coats to underlay my COPPERCOAT bottom coating. (( Note: be careful to apply the (any ) epoxy in the time frame instructed by the coating manufacturer, eh? )) I feel sure I shan't need to do this job again in my lifetime, eh?
Fair breezes & seas mate !

[lateral]

I would like to see a waterproof test for 2000e owing to the amount of solvent.
Really easy to apply tho. Apart from the fumes.

"In an article on moisture exclusion effectiveness in Epoxyworks (#25, summer 2007), the Gougeons reported that wood treated with 3 coats of West System 105/205 still gained 8% weight in 100% humidity in 8 weeks. Vinyl ester was pretty good, two-part polyurethane worse, and high-solvent epoxy and resorcinol formaldehyde almost useless. Only paraffin wax was a better barrier than epoxy."

IMO should not be used without forced air.

[Debgen]

I've been using and recommending Ceram-Kote 99 for close to 20 years. It's a two part epoxy based barrier coat using ceramic for the barrier. Bullet proof and dries at 4 mils per coat. Cost is very reasonable at $125 gallon. 2 gallons normal does a 34 ft monohull. Best applied using foam roller such as the home depot 6 inch variety. following directions and you can't go wrong. They have sales reps for most of US. ceram-kote.com for info

[Sailing55]

Originally Posted by S/V Alchemy

Indeed. Having a steel full keeler, we have a lot to paint and different issues. We gravitate away from the "yachtie" stuff (we won't be racing!) to the more "industrial marine" brands. We use Pettit currently, but Endura on the topsides. We are considering Amercoat, but a fellow steel boat owner reports that he's been happy with "International Intersheild 300V ALU Epoxy. Antifoul is ablative, International Interspeed 6200NA.
International is the Big Boy brand paint, as opposed to their yachty Interlux paints."

I'm not saying price should trump performance, but if it's good enough to keep a sea buoy or an oil rig painted, it should be good enough for a boater.

For whatever this is worth, I had to build some steel floors for my wood boat 10 years ago, and after researching various products I went with Amercoat two part epoxy. The product that they developed for the inside of tanks on tankers. I blasted to white, followed the directions to the letter, followed up with a topcoat and those steel floors still look as good as the day I built them...in the bilges no less. That is impressive. I went with industrial epoxy coatings rather than galvanizing to eliminate the potential galvanic problems due to dissimilar metals and stray current.

[hriehl1]

I used the Pettit product 4 years ago, 6 coats of alternating gray and white. I have then used Pettit Hydrocoat paint. I have been very pleased with these products, five months per season on a Massachusetts north shore mooring, I have only needed a 30 minute touch-up with a brush each off season.