Bending Wood Rails

[blackjacobin]

Hi Crew,
Im looking for advice on replacing the rails on my SouthernCross 28'. There was some local bumper boat action in the mooring field last week. The issue is that the turn from the bow is pretty tight and I want to know if there is an easier way to shape the teak.
All advice is welcome.

[Rightbrainer]

I have read in some woodworking magazine (or maybe Wooden Boat, which is about the same thing) that you can soak wood in hot water and fabric softener to make it more limber. I guess I'd slip it into a length of ABS plastic pipe and fill with Downey and let it soak a while. I haven't done it myself, so I can't attest to it.

[MikeHoncho]

Google search steam bending and make sure to find topics including teak. Getting it to bend is only the half of it. Keeping it bent while it cools without cracking is the second half. Acorn to Arabella (YouTube) does a bunch of steam bending with oak which is fairly common. Another technique is to fabricate the railing in strips. Make a form and glue up the strips while clamping them to the form then mill to the shape you are looking for. This technique is used for tighter radius were steam bending can't handle. Teak is a lot less common. This is defiantly a insurance claim if able and not equipped to repair.

[AndyEss]

Back in the pre-diluvian ages, I re-built a full keel, plank on frame, wood-hulled sloop. I needed to sister up some cracked ribs with white oak.
Instead of steaming the oak (about 1” thick by 1-1/2” wide) I boiled them in a boiler I constructed out of a length of galvanized downspout, one end sealed by a coffee can filled with some wet concrete mix.
I set up the galvanized downspout on an angle, and built a small wood fire under it.
Once the water was steaming hot, I put in my oak sister ribs and boiled them for a while. They were very pliable when they came out, but re-stiffened as they cooled.
From memory, I added salt to the water (read that somewhere) but water softener sounds promising also.
Just remember to bend the wood on its weak axis, and work fast.

[Bill O]

Originally Posted by blackjacobin

Hi Crew,
Im looking for advice on replacing the rails on my SouthernCross 28'. There was some local bumper boat action in the mooring field last week. The issue is that the turn from the bow is pretty tight and I want to know if there is an easier way to shape the teak.
All advice is welcome.

Assume you are talking about a toe rail that runs around the bow? Can you show use pics of the bow area?

[TrentePieds]

What has been said about steam bending is very true, but teak is not particularly amenable to it.

Are you going to return the existing rub rail to its position, or are you going to fit a new rail?

What is the existing means of attaching the rail to the boat?

Are you going to make the repair while the boat is afloat, or when she's on the hard?

Alignment is going to be the critical issue, I would think. But if you'll be kind enuff to answer the questions above I might be able to make some workable suggestions

TrentePieds

[boatman61]

Dunno if I would recommend boiling teak, you'd take a lot of the oil out of which is its beneficial moisture resistance property.

https://ourpastimes.com/how-to-bend-teak-12566788.html

[blackjacobin]

Originally Posted by TrentePieds

What has been said about steam bending is very true, but teak is not particularly amenable to it.

Are you going to return the existing rub rail to its position, or are you going to fit a new rail?

What is the existing means of attaching the rail to the boat?

Are you going to make the repair while the boat is afloat, or when she's on the hard?

Alignment is going to be the critical issue, I would think. But if you'll be kind enuff to answer the questions above I might be able to make some workable suggestions

TrentePieds

Sadly it will have to be a new rail.
The old rail was attached with 15/8" screws at the notoriously leaky SouthernCross hull deck joint.
I am going to have to do it while the boat is on the hard.
In a way there is a positive to this in that I can address some of the hull/deck issues. My plan is to re-tighten the deck to hull bolts 5200 screw and cap the new rail.

[Cheechako]

I have not successfully steam bent Teak. At the same time I successfully bent oak. It can often be cold bent into shape to a certain extent, hull toe rail shape can often be done if not too large. You often see teak decking bent in a curve well.

[blackjacobin]

I think that may be the way to go.
Oak could look really beautiful on the rail,

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by blackjacobin

I think that may be the way to go.
Oak could look really beautiful on the rail,

Nah, oak not good outside. water stains terribly and will rot also. White oak is a bit better but not often used except inside wooden boats for frames etc.

I'm not entirely sure what all you are doing, but if this is a cap rail over the joint there may be other options than wood...

[boatman61]

You'd be better off going for Philippine mahogany.


Can you use Philippine mahogany on a boat?
Philippine Mahogany is synonymous with boat building, thanks to the iconic Chris Craft boats from the 1930-60s. So when asked if the species will be good for exterior projects, we answer with a strong yes.

[Nicholson58]

Originally Posted by Rightbrainer

I have read in some woodworking magazine (or maybe Wooden Boat, which is about the same thing) that you can soak wood in hot water and fabric softener to make it more limber. I guess I'd slip it into a length of ABS plastic pipe and fill with Downey and let it soak a while. I haven't done it myself, so I can't attest to it.

It is possible to hot steam bend green teak. You might have some success with small sections of new teak

The problem is that all imported wood must arrive in the US kiln dried. After kiln drying it cannot be softened for bending. This was the authoritative decree from several pros. We faced this issue and bought wide planks and used a template to cut them to the boat contour. I also tried plastic wood but our section was too deep.

[Manateeman]

Teak just does not steam bend well. You can cold bend 2”x2” rub rail but not all the way to the bow or stern in your hull shape. One can epoxy laminate cold bent pieces about 1/4 to 3/8” thick if the flat side is 2” or so...if you want to do a bulwark of 4 to 6” on the vertical, you might be able to go as thick as 1/2”.
A lot depends on how the teak was cut off the log and how tight the bend.

If I remember correctly, your boat had a two part rail and that the cap was sawn to shape. It’s a lot of work and you need to think about how many board feet of teak you will require. If you could post some photos, it would be easier to recommend repair options.
The manatee crew.

[blackjacobin]

Originally Posted by Manateeman

Teak just does not steam bend well. You can cold bend 2”x2” rub rail but not all the way to the bow or stern in your hull shape. One can epoxy laminate cold bent pieces about 1/4 to 3/8” thick if the flat side is 2” or so...if you want to do a bulwark of 4 to 6” on the vertical, you might be able to go as thick as 1/2”.
A lot depends on how the teak was cut off the log and how tight the bend.

If I remember correctly, your boat had a two part rail and that the cap was sawn to shape. It’s a lot of work and you need to think about how many board feet of teak you will require. If you could post some photos, it would be easier to recommend repair options.
The manatee crew.

Thank you for that!
Laminating is a good idea.
Unfortunately I am not near Katrinka right now.