Best Glue for Toe Rail Teak Plugs?

[Nicholson58]

Originally Posted by Kenomac

I won't be finishing the toe rail with varnish, it will be allowed to go grey and look natural. Seems like if I use the varnish method, I'll see a ring around each plug.

not so, the plugs are tapered and press-fit. There will be no ring. I also use varnish or tightbond.

[Terra Nova]

Originally Posted by Nicholson58

...the plugs are tapered...

Not so. The plugs have straight sides, as do the holes.

[model 10]

Originally Posted by Terra Nova

Not so. The plugs have straight sides, as do the holes.

You hope the hole has straight sides. A good whack with a hammer finishes it off by smashing the plug into shape.

[Terra Nova]

Originally Posted by Guy

You hope the hole has straight sides...

No, you make the hole have straight sides by using good technique and the proper Fuller bit to bore/chase it. The plugs are cut very slightly oversize, usually with a matching plug cutter from the same manufacturer.

[model 10]

Originally Posted by Terra Nova

No, you make the hole have straight sides by using good technique and the proper Fuller bit to bore/chase it. The plugs are cut very slightly oversize, usually with a matching plug cutter from the same manufacturer.

In new construction that might be imagined but after that, you take what you get with hole size.

[Terra Nova]

Guy--sorry, but a skilled craftsman doesn't "take what he gets"; he makes it fit. Because he has the tools and the know-how. Even girls do it.

[Kenomac]

The teak plugs are 1/2 inch, but the hole sizes vary because when I sand down the toe rail, I'm left with some of the screw heads exposed, then I remove the screw, drill the hole 1/4-1/2 inch deeper, reinstall the screw, then install the plug. So the holes will vary slightly even though I'm using a high quality wood drill bit. Not as tidy as dealing with new wood.

[Terra Nova]

A wood drill bit will do a sloppy job. That's why we use Fuller bits.

[Kenomac]

These are the drill bits I have onboard here in Italy. My Fuller bit set is in Massachusetts among my piano rebuilding tools.

Ken

[Ericson38]

Originally Posted by Kenomac

The teak plugs are 1/2 inch, but the hole sizes vary because when I sand down the toe rail, I'm left with some of the screw heads exposed, then I remove the screw, drill the hole 1/4-1/2 inch deeper, reinstall the screw, then install the plug. So the holes will vary slightly even though I'm using a high quality wood drill bit. Not as tidy as dealing with new wood.

Ken, how long are those caprail SS wood screws, and is polysulfide coming out with them ? Thinking you have bolts and nuts under on 4-6 inch centers for hull to deck and then screws only for the cap rail. The example here (figure 1) uses pop rivets for hull to deck and screws for cap rail.

VOL IV, NO. 4

Just good to know about when working around this joint.

[Kenomac]

Originally Posted by Ericson38

Ken, how long are those caprail SS wood screws, and is polysulfide coming out with them ? Thinking you have bolts and nuts under on 4-6 inch centers for hull to deck and then screws only for the cap rail. The example here (figure 1) uses pop rivets for hull to deck and screws for cap rail.

VOL IV, NO. 4

Just good to know about when working around this joint.

1 inch maybe 1 1/4 wood screws. Nothing coming out with them.

[minaret]

Quick point, Ken. Because you are redrilling for fasteners with exposed heads, you will likely not be able to get more than 1/4" of extra depth for new bungs. This means you most certainly need an adhesive. Your new bungs will be barely set, unless you have the meat to drill deeper. On a cap rail, you may or may not. On a deck, almost certainly not.