Best (non permanent) way of attaching fiddle to shelf.

[Midday Gun]

This winter I've had to completely rebuild the main saloon back rests and shelf due to a chain-plate relocation project.

I've taken the opportunity to fit some cupboards outboard of the backrest shelf where previously it was just a big open shelf with lots of wasted space.

I've put in the base and I'm just building the cupboard front & sides, the shelf I'll glass in and the cupboards probably screw from under the shelf.

My question is about the best way of attaching the fiddle to the front of the shelf, don't want visible fasteners, its only 10mm thick so would like to avoid plugging it, any ideas on the best approach?

Thinking maybe some brass furniture tacks that would hopefully be almost invisible to hold it while some epoxy sets?
Is there a 'right' way to do this?


Pic of fiddle in question, ignore the front face of the cupboard that's just roughed out of scrap wood.

[pilott]

I like using 1/2" or 3/4" aluminum angle as a bracket behind the fiddle. It makes for a very strong joint, especially if you use epoxy as well

[Reefmagnet]

Route a groove in the fiddle to slip over the edge of the shelf and glue with a slightly thickened epoxy. You can clamp it while it sets (which isn't too difficult) or use a pin nailer to hold it together while the glue cures.

[Midday Gun]

Cheers, for the replies.

Erring towards the aluminium option simply because the fiddle is only 10mm thick so not a huge amount of material to work with when routing.

[Matt Johnson]

Hot glue gun or even superglue to hold it while the epoxy sets. Glob on the epoxy except in a few areas and use those dry spots for whichever type of fast setting glue you pick.

Matt

[belizesailor]

(deleted)

[slowpoker]

Try adding some support legs behind the cupholders or fiddle and screw on to the horizontal shelf surface. Wood or bent aluminum legs will not be seen and will be easily put on, or removed. Aluminum will flex a bit or bend, so make it thick metal. Paint those legs and fasteners to match shelf face.

[fatherchronica]

If you are able to put c-clamps over it and tighten them to the shelf you can drive shims between the fiddle and the c-clamp right about mid-C and take them off when the adhesive is dried.

[joelhemington]

Not clear as to why it needs to be removable, but if that's the case, I'd try some high end carpet tape and trim off any excess. 10mm does not allow much meat for screwing to anything.

[deblen]

Hidden nails & Titebond III glue(sets in 10min. / Len

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TBrmWJ8m-OI

[SkipMark]

SMART! Thanks for the tip, Len!

[Midday Gun]

That is a great idea actually, I'll try on a scrap piece first to see how it works.

Joel, I'm not sure why I put removable in the title, I think my mind was on something else.

[jimbunyard]

If you go with brads, whether manually, electrically or pneumatically driven, use at least galvanized brads, preferably stainless, as in the marine environment there is nothing that you can do that will prevent regular steel brads from eventually rusting and potentially splitting whatever they're driven into.

[gamayun]

Originally Posted by Midday Gun

I'm not sure why I put removable in the title, I think my mind was on something else.

For what it's worth, I changed my laminate countertops to acrylic solid surface and put the teak fiddles back on. The result looks great and I was super happy not to have had to source new ones. You may not ever do that, but it would be one reason to not use epoxy or an adhesive that's too strong.

[Disailor]

If the Wood strip fiddle is epoxied to a strip of alum angle, then the alum can be screwd to the shelf.