Visit our Popular Forums

Kerry1 · 20-11-2019, 12:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by SV Windrush II

Hello all,

I am trying to restore a faded out blue hull on my 2007 Tayana 58. I just purchased the boat a few months ago and the previous owner said that the last buff job only lasted 6 months and now is oxidized again.
Is there anything out there that will protect the finish from oxidizing?

Thanks

RobAttachment 203459

I haven't read all the posts but just to point out or query the oxidation issue with darker colours. I know with some intense colours in paint there is a greater problem with oxidation, just not sure if the same applies to pigments in gelcoat? Our topsides are white but has a navy blue line running right through which always appears to oxidize more than the white gelcoat. Not sure if this is true, or just that it shows up worse on navy blue- ie.is more apparent with darker colours but equally as bad as white in reality. Just my penny's worth. All the best with it.

Tillerjockey · 20-11-2019, 14:26

I second the polyglo reccomendation. The first time is rubbing and polishing to get rid of the oxidation. Then apply the polyglo. After that it's just a once a year reapplication of polyglo. Your boat will shine like new.

**David M** · 20-11-2019, 15:34

Agreed, an LPU. It does not have to be Awlgrip per se although Awlgrip is an excellent paint.

David B · 20-11-2019, 16:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by SV Windrush II

Hello all,

I am trying to restore a faded out blue hull on my 2007 Tayana 58. I just purchased the boat a few months ago and the previous owner said that the last buff job only lasted 6 months and now is oxidized again.
Is there anything out there that will protect the finish from oxidizing?

Thanks

RobAttachment 203459

We have tried many - including professional waxing (which as you found, only lasts a few months), and two-part polymerisation products that are expensive, and applied over two days.

The product we use now to great effect is Lion Protect Gelcoat Sealer.
GELCOAT SEALING PRO – LION PROTECT
On a test I did with faded and oxidised gelcoat and two-pack polyurethane, it transformed the finish AND lasted over two years fully exposed to sun, rain and salt spray.

It is a nano-particle product. If the finish is degraded, the nano-particles slough off the dead material then seal. If the finish is in good condition, the particles just seal the pores of the surface. On our 50' mono, we use around 400-500ml for the entire boat, making it also very economical.

Quite remarkable in it's restorative properties, but especially in the long service life of a single application.

Stu Jackson · 20-11-2019, 18:40

https://forums.sailboatowners.com/th...ff-wax.117266/

CarlF · 20-11-2019, 19:22

Given the likely age of the boat and because the PO didn't say it had been painted, I bet it's original gelcoat.

If it is, then the buffing wasn't good enough to get down to undamaged gelcoat. As MaineSail in Stu's post above said, that starts with 600 grit sandpaper. No yard will do this unless the owner insists on a very expensive job. A basic compounding and wax on old navy gelcoat will last 3-6 months. The full job will last several years with annual light compounding and wax.

I once had a navy hull. I painted with awl grip at the 6 year point. It was cheaper in the long run. My current boat has a white hull and the gelcoat is easy to maintain.

If you are going to keep up the wax route, consider RejeX. I know at least a half dozen cruisers who have switched from Collinite wax to Rejex. Two coats goes on much faster than wax and appears to last about 50% longer. No buffer is needed. Unlike some coatings, it is easily removable. You still have to sand/compound first if the hull is faded. On good gelcoat, I start with a cleaning with Collinite fiberglass cleaner then two coats of RejeX which just wipes on and wipes off. Read the instructions. Each coat has to sit 8 hours to harden without rain or direct hot sun.

Sos · 21-11-2019, 03:00

Has anyone tried Nyalic ?

Multiple coats should give years of protection.

tarian · 21-11-2019, 03:30

600 grit. 800 grit 1000 grit wet paper all over hull , then cutting compound , then fine compound , then carnuba wax , using an expensive buffer (variable speeds) correct 3M buffing pads for each compound and Wax , have now had 2 years from this restoring a 1977 white hull on a 42ft boat, this process should only be done on a heave oxidised boat , if not as bad then up your grit starting point , If the Job is done right and I mean right take your time do not miss grits or any parts of the Job , keep a clean buff head , make sure the correct buff head is used, use Carnuba Wax (not a substitute) then I guarantee you a finish that will get you lovely comments , this is hard work and took me 3 full days washing down each grit and starting again , as in life put in the time do it right you will be rewarded in Gelcoat heaven , if your shine is going in 6 months you aint doing it right
Look up Presta products cutting compound and polishing , expensive but this is what the Pros use on their Super Cars and I have used with great results will be pulling my boat out of the water after 2 years in to give it a quick shine and re polish it could get away with another year

SailFastTri · 21-11-2019, 05:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tillerjockey

I second the polyglo reccomendation. The first time is rubbing and polishing to get rid of the oxidation. Then apply the polyglo. After that it's just a once a year reapplication of polyglo. Your boat will shine like new.

Just say NO to polyglo! IMHO Anyone who recommends this stuff hasn’t lived with it long enough. It leaves a poor quality finish and degrades from beneath eventually. It’s very difficult to remove. In the end the best thing is to strip (hard work) and then paint the boat.
Once you paint, you only need to wash followed by wiping on Awlcare twice a year. Very easy and you get your time back.

SV Windrush II · 22-11-2019, 01:12

Thanks for all the great input guys. By the way, my headline says gel coat just Incase some of you missed it. So looks like I will be wet sanding, compounding and waxing. I have done this before but only on new molds to get it ready for laminations

I May test Rejex though on a small spot and see how it works.

**a64pilot** · 22-11-2019, 06:33

I’ve used Rejex on aircraft and it’s not bad, but it’s not great either.
The polyglo once it ages is a mess, it’s what was on my old boat and it had all come off or been removed by the PO except for one about 15 sq ft piece and I polished my self to death on that spot and never did get it all off.

Yes you can wear sand and it’s a whole lot of work, but it will look beautiful for awhile, Gel coat is a lot like old single stage paint, once it’s oxidized you can polish and wax and it will look good, but the smooth exterior finish is gone, the wax fills it in and makes it shine, but that shine will last as long as the way does, in my experience your doing good to get 6 months, maybe a yr at outside and then you need to compound and wax again, if you regularly wax about every 3 months, then you can skip the compound part.
Buy yourself a good polisher, as light weight as you can find, it will get heavy holding it up trust me.
I bought this one, the slow start up is essential in my opinion.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

swordds · 25-11-2019, 06:40

I don’t care what others say or think, this works for me and I have used it for many years on my 1973 Alberg 30, both hull and deck and interior wood, Zep high traffic floor polish. It may take several coats the first time and a repeat coat every 4 to 6 months but it is as easy as wiping with a damp cloth and instead of polishing off the gel coat you are wiping on a protective coat.

GuyO · 25-11-2019, 06:47

I note a few of the conversations/threads above and while I am definitely not an expert in this subject. Owning a 70 steel cutter with a dark blue hull with super yacht finish I totally empathise with the challenge being faced. I have, for the past 5 years been using a product called Ishine. This is a water based silicon free system that has various grades of treatment from what they call Ishine 5 through to 1. The Ishine 5 is what is recommended for really bad surface finishes. To date if have thankfully only had to use Ishine 3 to restore and clean the surface, from there the Ishine 2 is used to restore the colour and from there Ishine 1 which is a UV protector. I have been applying the system once a year and the results have been very satisfactory to the point where I have seriously considered skipping a year. It may be worth you investigating this product or at least having a chat with the Ishine people. Personally I have been pleased with the results and more importantly there is no abrasion. It claims to be using a nano technology to facilitate this but like I said I am not an expert in this field but the results personally have been good. Just recently we have repainted after 15 years with Awlgrip 2000 which is repairable and after consultation with awl grip here they see no reason why this system cannot be used with the paint because it is non abrasive. Have a look and see what you think. there may well be other people with more experience with the product on gel coat so I am sure that they will comment if they feel it is prudent to share.