Better way to change oil in 3gm30f?

[pcmm]

Originally Posted by gonesail

i have a westerbeke as well and the oil pan drain hose is very nice. also the glow plugs are a huge improvement in cooler weather. not sure why yanmar overlooked this

Guess it depends on how "cold" your cooler weather is. I've never had a problem getting my Yanmars to start all the way down to 0c just advance the throttle a bit and it fires right up with no glow plugs. Funny though, the Yanmar engine panels have a "glow" position on the key switch.

[SailBobC]

I use a 12v oil pump from Canadian Tire. Easier than a hand pump and smaller than the vacuum system but still a messy job and I am sure some oil remains.

[rbthorson]

I have been using a Pela 650 oil extractor (https://www.pelaproducts.com/description.htm) for more than 20 years. It extracts oil quickly and is very well built.

[reflectionsv37]

I have a 3JH3E Yanmar and I think I tried about every manual oil change pump known to man. They were all too slow and then you had to sotw the pump somewhere and when you went to use it, it would be covered in oil and they all made mess.

About 12 years ago, I purchased a 12v Oil/Diesel Scavenger Transfer pump. You can get the on Amazon for around $75. Not this exact model but looks just like it.

https://www.amazon.com/Impeller-Lubr...0-4513d670b6bc

I mounted it to the wall near the dipstick and wired it to an on-off-momentary toggle switch like those used on bilge pumps.

Rather than using a tiny hose to shove down the dip stick tube, I sized a hose that fit over the rim of the dip stick tube itself. In my case a 1/2" hose worked perfectly and provides an air tight seal without a hose clamp. The pump came with the proper 1/2" hose barbs. I connected another piece of hose to the discharge side, long enough to reach the container for the used oil. It sucks the oil out of the engine in less than 5 minutes. I found tight fitting plugs to cap the hose ends when I'm done. Coil them up around the pump and secure them to the wall and they're ready for the next oil change.

My engine holds 5 liters of oil and just sucking the oil out of the tube gets more than 4.5 liters out of the engine. The same amount I was usually getting with a hand pump. It's fast, easy, no storage space and no mess.

[Jon Hacking]

Yes, this is a monumental pain in the patootie. And any constant maintenance task should be made easier, or there's a natural urge to put it off. Even worse, it leaves a significant amount of oil still in the pan, & that's the heavy, gluggy oil with all the sediment in it. And trying to use the tube the dipstick fits into will be even worse, as it will leave even more oil in the pan.

On an earlier boat, we had an Isuzu engine. The previous owner had removed the engine for something, & while it was out he drilled & tapped a fitting in the lowest part of his oil-pan, & fitted a right-angle hose fitting, one with threads on one end (to go into the pan) & a hose-barb on the other, which went back to a brass hand-pump permanently mounted to the wall at the correct height for an old oil-container to fit under it.

It was extremely easy to use, with no mess, but you had to remember to keep an old oil-container around for your next change. It also got ALL of the oil out, every time.

Our 4JH2 Yanmars don't have enough room for me to extract the pans without removing the engines. But if I ever do get the engines (or just the pans) out, I'm going to put a similar setup on our engines.

[littleships]

Om any engine I jut remove the drain plug and put in a brass insert and a stop cock.... making sure the stop cock lever is oriented DOWN to be closed so there is not potential vibration issue to open the sea cock underway.
Attach a decent piece of hose long enough to be tied off above the engine.
I did this on my 100 turbo yanmar in 2000 and when I sold the boat in 2012 it was still working just fine.
I do it to any engine I have a relationship with and there have been many... haven't been caught short yet.
Another hack is if you have a saildrive ...is to install a header tank for sail drive oil and modify the orange top plug to accept a barb and a pipe.
Advantages are
1) no pressure build up in the sail drive wiht the potential to rupture the seals and
2) if a shaft seal does go it leaks microscopic amounts of oil out so you get a sheen on the water rather than you unknowlingly getting water into the said drive and destroying it.
Third hack to to remove that poxy brass petcock that masquerades as a raw water inlet on the sail drive, blank it off and fit a separate Christian sized through hull and a sea cock. so that when you actually NEED to shut that sea cock you can.

[Bluechart]

I use this to change my oil, transmission fluid, generator oil, and antifreeze. Pump it and walk away, pump it again and walk away….

Airpower America FloTool 5060TSMI Topsider Extractor Multi-Purpose Vacuum Oil Change Pump for 4-Cycle Engine, ATV, Boat, Large Vehicle https://a.co/d/2AxXL5Y

I run the engine a few minutes to warm (not hot), remove the oil fill cap, and slide the long hose down into the pan. When it is sucking air I’ll pull it up a bit, or push it down a bit, and I get most of the oil. I’ve adapted a few hoses, one fits on the engine coolant nipple, I remove the water/antifreeze filling cap, open the nipple and suck all the antifreeze out.

I carry the unit in a milk crate in the lazerette, hoses in baggies marked for use.

I’ve had the unit 15+ years, and changed fluids in many countries!

[capt jgw]

Originally Posted by Jon Hacking

On an earlier boat, we had an Isuzu engine. The previous owner had removed the engine for something, & while it was out he drilled & tapped a fitting in the lowest part of his oil-pan, & fitted a right-angle hose fitting, one with threads on one end (to go into the pan) & a hose-barb on the other, which went back to a brass hand-pump permanently mounted to the wall at the correct height for an old oil-container to fit under it.

That's pretty much how Beta engines are rigged. A drain plumbed to a built in hand pump. But I believe they have a valve before the hose that you have open first. Without a valve, if the hose comes off the barb out otherwise fails you lose all the oil. And the hose would be full of hot oil all the time which could be a problem, you'd have to use a hose compatible with that.

[capt jgw]

One of my previous boats had a drain plug in the oil pan and just barely enough room to get a drain pan under it. But not enough room to get the full pan back out. So I used my vacuum extractor to get most of the oil out through the dipstick tube then opened the drain. When the last of the oil was out I'd use the extractor to suck the oil out of the drain pan. Kind of a two step operation. If I was changing fuel filters too, I'd suck the fuel out of those last. Did a nice job of cleaning the black goo out of the hoses.
One nice thing about the vacuum extractors is they hold the used oil so you can pour it back into the new oil jug when you're done. No need to keep an empty jug onboard.

[jerryf609]

In my Catalina 30 there is no room for a drain pan under my M25. I've been using a hand pump and it wears me out even after warming the engine. Next oil change Im going to use a 12 volt pump. I might try one of the $30 chinese pumps.

[sinnerman]

The engine oil definitely must be hot (warmed up) to flow., Learned this while frustratingly trying to change the oil in winter...

I actually do a "double change". I change out the oil. Run the engine for a bit, then change it again.

I do this since there is always a lot of residual oil that the suction tube cannot get. On the M25 Westerbeke / Universal on the Catalina 30 the engine is tilted downward on the transmission end where the suction tube cannot get to it.

Costs a little more for the extra oil, but I am only changing oil once a year.

Cheers

[capt jgw]

Originally Posted by sinnerman

The engine oil definitely must be hot (warmed up) to flow., Learned this while frustratingly trying to change the oil in winter...

I actually do a "double change". I change out the oil. Run the engine for a bit, then change it again.

I do this since there is always a lot of residual oil that the suction tube cannot get. On the M25 Westerbeke / Universal on the Catalina 30 the engine is tilted downward on the transmission end where the suction tube cannot get to it.

Costs a little more for the extra oil, but I am only changing oil once a year.

Cheers

My dad used to do that on his trucks back in the 60's. Filled them with 10wgt, ran a bit, then changed again with 30wgt. He was in the oil delivery business so the extra oil was almost free. He was really busy so didn't get time to do the changes as often as he should.

[jsanton]

I’ve got an important tip that my mechanic taught me.
#1 dipstick suction works great with warm oil. If it’s a lot of work, something is wrong.
Buy the smaller vacuum pump, easier to stow.
And Don’t add the risk created by adding a hole in the drain pan.
The tip. Add a little more oil than needed. The old oil is less dense than the new oil so it floats on top. Now use the siphon to skim off the top surface of the oil. Up comes the last of the old oil. Siphon until the oil level is top of dipstick.

[Tin Tin]

Last year we bought the rather expensive Jabsco electric oil extractor after years of battling with manual systems. It is clean, and quick and oil goes into the waste container directly. We have a multi-hull so there are 3 engine changes including the generator and even 4 stroke outboard. To clean it all up just suck some Dawn through the system. I think it can also be used to empty a diesel tank, but not gasoline.