Boot Stripe and Water Line

[shamrock]

Can anyone share the most effective way to re establish the water line and boot stripe after refinishing the topsides and bottom?

I currently have a perfect boot stripe and water line and would like to repaint both exactly where they are now.

Is are there any way to etch or score the lines now? If so, how?


Many thanks!

[Benz]

Scribe a line with a dremel tool. Be careful not to sand it out. Tedious, but it will work. Otherwise, do each part separately with tape at the waterline.

[harmonysimone]

Is tape out of the question?

[Blue Stocking]

Google How to use a water level.

[shamrock]

Originally Posted by Benz

Scribe a line with a dremel tool. Be careful not to sand it out. Tedious, but it will work. Otherwise, do each part separately with tape at the waterline.

Ok, thank you. But when I roll on primer and fair, won't that fill the line?

[shamrock]

Originally Posted by harmonysimone

Is tape out of the question?

Yes because I want to Awlgrip under the boot stripe to eliminate edges.

[harmonysimone]

Originally Posted by shamrock

Yes because I want to Awlgrip under the boot stripe to eliminate edges.

Ahhh! Got it.

[kjames]

Hi Shamrock, if it is in the prefect positon now, why dont you just measure the existing position. Say at metre intervals back from bow, each side. At each point measure distance down from deck.

[shamrock]

Originally Posted by kjames

Hi Shamrock, if it is in the prefect positon now, why dont you just measure the existing position. Say at metre intervals back from bow, each side. At each point measure distance down from deck.

That makes sense.

I was also just thinking of tracing a pattern into a really long sheet of masking paper. Maybe score the water line, then tape masking paper over the entire water line and boot stripe flush against tge hull, trace the lines onto the paper, then cut the paper so it would match up to the top edge of the boot stripe. Roll up the paper, sand the stripe off, prep and paint the topsides, then bring out the masking paper, tape it back onto the hull using the scored water line as a reference , then tape the top edge of the stripe. Then, cut the paper again along the bottom edgge of the stipe, then tape that against the hull.

Any reason that would not work?

[Reefmagnet]

Mark or measure the waterline at the bow and each side of the transom and midships. Use a cheap rotating laser level (at night!) located midships to join the marks and then run a marker along the laser line to mark the waterline. The "trick" is that the laser needs to be the same height as the midships mark when you do this. That's how I did mine and it turned out great.

[Roy M]

Stop for a moment and consider this: The boat has been carried to its position in the boatyard by a big, lumbering machine. It is then set down on some blocks, and some jackstands are placed to stabilize it. It is no where level. Waterlevels, lasers, et cetera are useless unless you make a MAJOR effort to fastidiously block the boat up and level it. It must be done, OR, you can just pick a spot and say that's level, and tape from there. You get to choose, and live with the decision thereafter.

I did it the first time in the boatyard, with heavy house jacks and lots of long levels. Once it's done, you have a baseline for all future alignments (as the boat fills with heavy stuff, the waterline magically gets lifted at subsequent haulouts. You can use the previous waterline or boot top, or you can scribe (remembering that things might change in the future. You can also put dimples in the hull at intervals to help line up the masking tape. Ultimately, it's your eye that will make the final decision. After that, you will be shifting "ballast" (i.e., chain, dive gear, heavy tools, etc.) to make the boat lay to its lines (or your perception of the concept.

You have to remember that waterlines are a dream and desire of the designer and the builder, who somehow don't get it that a boat that is sailing the bay isn't the same boat that has sailed over the sunset to a distant harbor, carrying spare parts, dinghies and other toys, and the supplies that will be needed for an extended adventure. Or perhaps, the boat wasn't actually intended for this type of adventure and is better off in the bay. It happens too regularly for it to be an accident. You get to make the choice and live with it.

[Reefmagnet]

Originally Posted by Roy M

Stop for a moment and consider this: The boat has been carried to its position in the boatyard by a big, lumbering machine. It is then set down on some blocks, and some jackstands are placed to stabilize it. It is no where level. Waterlevels, lasers, et cetera are useless unless you make a MAJOR effort to fastidiously block the boat up and level it. It must be done, OR, you can just pick a spot and say that's level, and tape from there. You get to choose, and live with the decision thereafter.

I did it the first time in the boatyard, with heavy house jacks and lots of long levels. Once it's done, you have a baseline for all future alignments (as the boat fills with heavy stuff, the waterline magically gets lifted at subsequent haulouts. You can use the previous waterline or boot top, or you can scribe (remembering that things might change in the future. You can also put dimples in the hull at intervals to help line up the masking tape. Ultimately, it's your eye that will make the final decision. After that, you will be shifting "ballast" (i.e., chain, dive gear, heavy tools, etc.) to make the boat lay to its lines (or your perception of the concept.

You have to remember that waterlines are a dream and desire of the designer and the builder, who somehow don't get it that a boat that is sailing the bay isn't the same boat that has sailed over the sunset to a distant harbor, carrying spare parts, dinghies and other toys, and the supplies that will be needed for an extended adventure. Or perhaps, the boat wasn't actually intended for this type of adventure and is better off in the bay. It happens too regularly for it to be an accident. You get to make the choice and live with it.

No quite correct. The laser can work at a tilt, it just needs to be level with the midships mark in the perpendicular plane to the waterline, which even then could be tilted. "Level" in this instance simply means inline with the cross sectional plane of the hull.

[David M]

For a boat that displaces a different amount of water now than originally and/or the weight is distributed differently now than originally, the only way to get an accurate waterline is to do it with the boat in the water. The only way to mark it accurately is to do it on a super calm day by making marks around the hull. I saw a guy doing it with a float that had a Sharpee attached. Simple but super accurate. You make the marks about every foot, haul the boat out and run a tape line at the marks or X amount of inches above or below the Sharpee marks.

This eliminates all doubt that this is where your boat floats and that the line itself is level and perfectly straight.

[daddle]

...and before you mark it in the water do the best leveling you can by moving stores. Most boats are leveled during construction when fitting the interior. I wander around down below with a spirit level on the counters and bulkheads and the like, maybe the cabintop, to get an idea of the builders intent on trim.

[Thumbs Up]

Instead of a regular laser level I used one that can project a line across a surface (got it at SearsCraftsman 4-in-1 Laser Trac Level with Carrying Case and Laser Enhancing Glasses - Amazon.com) I adjusted its height by blocking it up on a step ladder. You do not need to use the leveling feature on this, you just need three reference points (bow,stern, midship) Whatever you do though, do not use a sharpie to mark the line. Sharpie ink bleeds right through awlgrip.... wait a minute...maybe that is the answer, what if you mark it in sharpie before the awlgrip goes on?

In your particular situation though I would do what KJames suggested: Measure down from your toe rail at intervals then make a chart with all of these measurements. When it is time to "connect the dots" you will need to make a batten out of a long flat flexible strip of something and it is good to have some helpers hold it in place while you mark. Check your work by sighting down the line from bow and stern. Nothing looks worse than a wavy waterline.