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Old 06-04-2008, 09:46   #16
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If your going the scraper route, take it from an old pro. Get one with replaceable and re-sharpen-able blades.

Hope you have strong shoulders or are of the age they'll recover easily.

It's much like the torture board.

Enjoy! Labor of love! :kissy:
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Old 06-04-2008, 10:43   #17
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We'll be looking at a low pressure water blast using soda rock next week. If it works as well as I have been told it works we'll have it done next haulout.
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Old 06-04-2008, 19:22   #18
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bottom paint

Well, this is sort of related. We have had the boat out of the water for refit a couple of years. We had a fuel tank leak, fill the bildge and run out the stuffing box. It got on a lot of the bottom paint on the keel and was there for at least several weeks. We cleaned it all off, but the bottom paint starting flaking off about a year later where the diesel (and our cleaning) had been. We lost two layers in that area, but hey, there are plenty left.
My experiences with bottom paint removal have not been fun. I am now thinking that re-calibrating my opinion of old bottom paint could save me a lot of grief. Kind of like the "Antique Road Show" on PBS. "Ah yes, it has a nice patina".
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Old 06-04-2008, 19:42   #19
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Possible idea... needs to be tested.

This idea could be a lifesaver or may not work at all...

For the home remodeling I do, I use the "Silent Paint Remover" and it is AMAZING how easy it makes the paint come off.

Now, this is always used on wood. The paint just bubbles and lifts right off the wood.

So I am not sure this would work on fiberglass. But hey, maybe wood boat owners can use it.

It is safe to use with lead paints because you don't sand and put particles in the air. So I would think it would be safe with bottom paint for the same reasons.

Anyway, read the information on the website and google it. I can tell you it works awesome on old thick multi layered paint from a house.

The Silent Paint Remover™*: An environmentally safe method for removing paint & varnish with infrared heat technology.
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Old 06-04-2008, 20:00   #20
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For what it is worth, an old friend and boatyard owner once told me that "if I can't knock it off with 2000 psi water you can paint over it".
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Old 06-04-2008, 22:14   #21
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Originally Posted by ozskip View Post
Hi i have hire shop and the pro fishing boats here use our high pressure water cleaner on cold but if they want to go back to the bare hull they use it on heat 95c and it seams to do the trick.Greg
Just thinking aloud: not sure if GRP can handle 95 C - I know that I would not be happy to subject epoxy coating to 95 C. Anyone know more.........
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Old 06-04-2008, 22:16   #22
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For what it is worth, an old friend and boatyard owner once told me that "if I can't knock it off with 2000 psi water you can paint over it".
Mechanically maybe but not always chemically (sp?).
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Old 06-04-2008, 22:57   #23
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No I wouldn't use the silent paint remover. Two reasons. Firstly would be fumes. The Biocide would smoke and would be deadly toxic. The second is, you need a controled removal of just the Anti-foul and only the anti-foul. The heat is liable to remove barrier coatings and mabe even damage the Gelcoat. I have seen those heaters work. They toast the paint pretty quick.
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Old 06-04-2008, 23:30   #24
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Very good points Alan. I agree, it would definitely remove everything, all layers and probably all at once. I didn't think about fumes. It does bubble the paint and smoke. Not a problem with normal paint and a good mask. But fuming biocides don't sound good.

If I could retract my post, I would. . It was an idea that just popped in my head.
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Old 06-04-2008, 23:49   #25
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There has been a lot of great suggestions here and although it will not be until next year when I do this, I will experiment with all the suggestions give. Thank you so very much for the help. I think the key idea here is to hire a couple of younger eager labor.
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Old 07-04-2008, 00:22   #26
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It was an idea that just popped in my head.
If it wasn't for those, the Human Race wouldn't be where it is today. hmmmm, that gives food for thought doesn't it.
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Old 11-10-2013, 13:13   #27
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For what it is worth after 5 years from the last post: I'm about to remove several layers of anti fouling from my Comet 41S. A friend of mine and experienced sailor suggested to use a mixture of soda kaustic and wall-paper glue; use a roller to apply, wait 40 mins then use the high preassure washer. Wait and let dry thereafter sandpaper, first 60 then 80. I will try this tomorrow...
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Old 11-10-2013, 13:30   #28
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Re: Bottom Paint Removal

You say you are "on the move", depending where,you might want to head south of our borders and hire someone to do the stripping. This is not a real fun job, it is one of the few that I would hire out!
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Old 11-10-2013, 13:40   #29
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Re: Bottom Paint Removal

I use a makita 5" disc sander. It only weighs 2.5 lbs so its easy on the shoulders and it makes quick work of bottom paint or old barrier coat!
Makita-5-in-Disc-Sander
Play around with different grit discs (24 and 36 are super fast but 50 is a little more controllable)
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Old 21-12-2013, 16:52   #30
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Re: Bottom Paint Removal

Dear friends, I must say that cleaning the hill was much more difficult than expected. I started beginning of October and worked hard every week end until beginning of December. After a couple (maybe 3) of week ends where I used soda caustic mixed with paper glue to soften the paint, I realized that the only way was to sand it. So I bought an orbital machine and started with sand paper number 40. It took me almost 2 months (= 8 week ends), but at last my hill is now clean and ready for painting (next spring). My conclusion is that there are no short cuts and when the hill has so many layers of paint as mine, then there is no other way than sanding it with a good machine and a lot of patience! Good news is that this operation is not so hard if you keep the hull clean every year .
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