Bottom sanding job seems to be going sideways on me

[Sailor Doug]

Allow hull to dry out after stripping before painting. Strip in the fall paint in the spring.


Sent from my iPad using Cruisers Sailing Forum

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by Sailor Doug

Allow hull to dry out after stripping before painting. Strip in the fall paint in the spring.


Sent from my iPad using Cruisers Sailing Forum

Nice try, Doug, but in SF, they sail year round, so no winter layup for your plan.

meanwhile. Gama, hang in there! You are sounding lots more positive today, and it will be done soon. And FWIW, our regime here is with ablative paint, pressure wash thoroughly, scrape anything left, and then give it a good scrub with scotchbrite pads on poles (with articulated heads). Hose off again, let dry and ready to paint. The paint is fairly soft, so most of the remaining paint is removed by this method, reducing buildup over the years. Sadly, the paints available here at anything like a reasonable price seem to only last 12-18 months. A yearly program works out for us better than a year and a half, so we're usually doing this every year. Tried to stretch it to w years and it was a total failure. lesson learned!

Anyhow, it has been a bloody long time since we hauled at Berkeley, but I remember it well.

Cheers,

Jim

[Sailor Doug]

Jim my dry out comment was intended for those who are going to apply a barrier coat. If hull is not dry you just wasted time and money.


Sent from my iPad using Cruisers Sailing Forum

[minaret]

Originally Posted by gamayun

OMG, if I had read about your experience yesterday, I would have walked away from my boat! I must say that it's not turning out as horribly as I thought it might. TPI was a great boat builder. I have such a solid boat and I'm truly thankful for that. The bottom has no barrier coat, however; but after 28 years, no blisters. A Valiant that was hauled here a couple of days ago has blisters larger than my fist and after a sanding, has now been painted. The bottom is weeping through the paint. My problem is that I can't get to good paint on my boat. When I try to sand the rough paint, it goes straight to gel coat. After another 5 hours of two of us sanding today, we almost got one complete side stripped clean. I think we have another 10 hours total to get it ready to apply Interprotect, which will require 3 days to get 7 layers down. Then barrier coat. I am thinking of using Tropikote by SeaHawk, but maybe I'll talk to the Innerlux rep on Friday. I'll be sailing over with a friend on her Santana 22 for the Gary Mull celebration. Coincidentally, my F38 is also a Mull design

When I get on my computer later, I'll post a pic of today's work. I'm really impressed at the progress and feeling pretty good about it all. Now, when I haul in the future (3-5 years, I expect) all that'll be needed is a light sanding and painting.

7 coats of 2000 is a bit heavy, unless you are applying with a short nap roller like a candy striper. Use a 3/8" Super Doo-Z, should get to the required DFT of 10 mil in 4 coats, 5 if you feel better that way. It's not a cheap product and some waste is inevitable, don't make it pricier than it needs to be. Keep leftover 2000 in the freezer overnight and then warm it up and add the fresh batch to it next day and mix it in well; this also reduces wastage. Make sure you don't miss the bond window when you apply antifouling to the barrier! It's a big deal. And stay away from SeaHawk. If you want a quality hard paint, use Trinidad. Be sure if you spring for SR that it actually contains Irgarol; the national supply ran out last year and most manufacturers just removed it (the active ingredient) from their SR paint lines and kept selling it at the higher rate! It should be back on the market now, but be sure you are not buying product labeled as SR falsely.




http://www.totalboatshow.com/wordpre...icide-irgarol/

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Sandero

Usually...

After many years of applying bottom paint.... it was clearly too thick and too heavy and needed to be removed. I hired a soda blaster... but unfortunately went through the gelcoat in a few places. So I decided to do an epoxy barrier goat. No blisters in the gel and so barrier coat was mostly double protection against moisture infusion.

The removed paint was over 500#.

Sure that wasn't the removed paint + the blasting media?

[gamayun]

Originally Posted by minaret

7 coats of 2000 is a bit heavy, unless you are applying with a short nap roller like a candy striper. Use a 3/8" Super Doo-Z, should get to the required DFT of 10 mil in 4 coats, 5 if you feel better that way. It's not a cheap product and some waste is inevitable, don't make it pricier than it needs to be. Keep leftover 2000 in the freezer overnight and then warm it up and add the fresh batch to it next day and mix it in well; this also reduces wastage. Make sure you don't miss the bond window when you apply antifouling to the barrier! It's a big deal. And stay away from SeaHawk. If you want a quality hard paint, use Trinidad. Be sure if you spring for SR that it actually contains Irgarol; the national supply ran out last year and most manufacturers just removed it (the active ingredient) from their SR paint lines and kept selling it at the higher rate! It should be back on the market now, but be sure you are not buying product labeled as SR falsely.

Is there anything with more voodoo science than boat bottom paint..?! I thought Irgarol was no longer in Trinidad SR. I will check and give them another call. I made the mistake of calling Pettit on a Friday afternoon and couldn't get three words out of the guy. I need to try them again because someone later told me they had replaced Irgarol with Teflon, which it seems would make it more akin to a racing paint.

What's wrong with SeaHawk?

[gamayun]

Originally Posted by Sailor Doug

Allow hull to dry out after stripping before painting. Strip in the fall paint in the spring.

I really thought this was sent as an April Fool's Joke I think my yard costs are around $60/day so leaving it for more than a couple of weeks is not an option. I am also having withdrawals not being able to sail. Before the haul out a week ago, the mast had been off the boat for four weeks already. From my research on the subject, if there are blisters, then the hull definitely needs to be dried for possibly months before repairing. My boat is dry and doesn't have any blisters. I also recently heard that TPI might have used a vinyl ester resin under the gel coat so it may already have a pretty good barrier coat. This is how the J-boats were built (by TPI, too). Oh, why is everything on a boat so complicated

[Cadence]

If anyone is close to a gov. auction site. I would suggest wandering through it prior to an auction. If paint goes out of date it is auctioned. Two part epoxy and bottom paint. If you don't want to bid on a pallet or three, make note of who did and approach them about buying what you need. I've given away epoxy and came out ahead. And bought from someone that got a bunch of bottom paint. For what it is worth.

[Sailor Doug]

[QUOTE=gamayun;2089239]I really thought this was sent as an April Fool's Joke I think my yard costs are around $60/day so leaving it for more than a couple of weeks is not an option. I am also having withdrawals not being able to sail. Before the haul out a week ago, the mast had been off the boat for four weeks already. From my research on the subject, if there are blisters, then the hull definitely needs to be dried for possibly months before repairing. My boat is dry and doesn't have any blisters. I also recently heard that TPI might have used a vinyl ester resin under the gel coat so it may already have a pretty good barrier coat. This is how the J-boats were built (by TPI, too). Oh, why is everything on a boat so complicated



Put a couple of heaters in your boat and leave them fun 24/7 until you put on your barrier coat.


Sent from my iPad using Cruisers Sailing Forum

[gamayun]

Originally Posted by Sailor Doug

Put a couple of heaters in your boat and leave them fun 24/7 until you put on your barrier coat.

This would be No Problem! It's already so danged cold at night that I can easily throw another heater on and make it even toastier. I like this suggestion

[JPA Cate]

You've made lots of progress, so far, good on you.

Ann

[gamayun]

Originally Posted by Ann T. Cate

You've made lots of progress, so far, good on you.

Ann

Thanks, Ann! To give full due, the reason for the great progress is a 26-year-old kid of a friend of mine who has been able to spend a few days working on the boat. I think he's been working on boats since a wee tot and really knows his stuff; plus, he's a fast worker! He spent an hour in the cockpit locker this morning unbolting everything connected to the rudder so we could drop it today. It was the only way to remove the prop shaft. I, on the other hand, can only lift the sander for a short time before my arms start to burn, then I have to rest a few seconds before sanding again for a short bit -- rest, sand, repeat. It takes me forever to get a small patch done!
Rudder dropped_4-4-16.jpg Views: 147 Size: 405.1 KB ID: 122021" style="margin: 2px" />

[Doublewammy]

Have just completed the same job, we used paint stripper to scrape the 14 years of antifoul off to the primer coat, it was judged to be fine, applied 2 coats of epoxy, then started on the primers, one for epoxy and one for antifoul, then the new antifoul, it looks and feels great. Long process, 2 weeks for a 43 foot cat, get some help and just get it over with.