Bronze NPT Flange Nut for a Seacock

[sheliadempsey]

I have a Wilcox Crittenden Seacock that the flange nut seized up on, when trying to get it removed, the nut portion is rounding off. Looking for a solution??? 3-D printing company that does bronze???? Possible having the nut ground down and a new nut welded on the end?? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. The flange nut fits a piece of 3/4" rod. Thanks

[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, Shelia.


85-5-5-5 bronze flanged nuts may be available from:

Apollo 704-841-6000
Page 8 ➥ https://assets.unilogcorp.com/2/ITEM...01_Catalog.pdf

Spartan Marine 800-325-3287
➥ https://www.spartanmarine.com/all-pr...thru-hull-nuts

Groco 410-604-3800
➥ https://www.groco.net/products/fitti...ings/th-series

[Calif.Ted]

That's something I'd expect to be able to find at Minney's Surplus.
Home

[Spot]

If it is fitting on 3/4" threaded rod, would that mean it's straight threads versus NPT?

[wingless]

Welcome to the forum.

The NPT threads have a taper.

A seacock should have NPS threads w/o a taper.

[Joli]

That's a tapered cone valve that's frozen. You need to disassemble, lap it, then grease it and resemble. Or replace with new. They're good valves but require maintenance.

https://marinehowto.com/servicing-ta...cone-seacocks/

[sheliadempsey]

Originally Posted by GordMay

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, Shelia.


85-5-5-5 bronze flanged nuts may be available from:

Apollo 704-841-6000
Page 8 ➥ https://assets.unilogcorp.com/2/ITEM...01_Catalog.pdf

Spartan Marine 800-325-3287
➥ https://www.spartanmarine.com/all-pr...thru-hull-nuts

Groco 410-604-3800
➥ https://www.groco.net/products/fitti...ings/th-series

Thank you, I will reach out to them to see if they can help.

[sheliadempsey]

Originally Posted by wingless

Welcome to the forum.

The NPT threads have a taper.

A seacock should have NPS threads w/o a taper.

Thanks, I was told that the thru-hull flange nut was the NPS and that the flange nut on the side of the seacock that pulls the cone tight is NPT. Is that not correct?

[Spot]

Yes, welcome to the forum. Just wanted to make sure the point about threads being different was discussed before something got over-tightened to something else!

[chris95040]

Originally Posted by sheliadempsey

Thanks, I was told that the thru-hull flange nut was the NPS and that the flange nut on the side of the seacock that pulls the cone tight is NPT. Is that not correct?

I don't actually know, but I'd be surprised if that nut was NPT. There are a range of places the nut will want to sit along that stud as the cone wears away through its lifetime and NPT wouldn't really allow for that.

[Joli]

You do understand you've taken the flanged nut off the cone, that's what is in the picture. The flanged nut holds the cone in place but this cone is obviously frozen. Is the boat in the water? If it is, put the flanged nut back on the cone and replace the seacock when you haul again. By the looks of the square end of the tapered cone the seacock hasn't been exercised in some time and someone damaged the cone trying to free it.

[sheliadempsey]

Thanks everyone, I'm about to take the cone out to clean and lap. I'm learning as I go, this was my dad's boat, he passed away and I don't have the heart to get rid of it. There are a lot of memories attached and I'm not a quitter, but I don't want to screw anything up and nobody in my boat area seems to know how to fix it. The boat is a 1998 Trojan 12 meter and people seem to say its old and to replace it, the only thing wrong with this seacock is that the nut is rounded off and I can't see replacing the seacock due to a nut. Maybe once I have the cone out, I can determine if the thread is straight or tapered.

[sheliadempsey]

Originally Posted by Joli

You do understand you've taken the flanged nut off the cone, that's what is in the picture. The flanged nut holds the cone in place but this cone is obviously frozen. Is the boat in the water? If it is, put the flanged nut back on the cone and replace the seacock when you haul again. By the looks of the square end of the tapered cone the seacock hasn't been exercised in some time and someone damaged the cone trying to free it.

I'm still on the hard. I was recommissioning to go into the water when I wasn't able to get the port seacock flange nut to loosen. A gentleman in the marina took a pipe wrench to break the nut loose and rounded it and before I put the nut back on, I wanted to get a new nut due to being worried that when it comes time to pull it in the fall to winterize that I won't be able to loosen the nut to close the seacock. I'm trying to be proactive and fix it before it's too late. I thought if I could find the same seacock that I could take the nut off and replace it, when I failed to find a replacement. I started thinking 3d printing or grinding and welding a new nut so that it can be removed in the future. Thanks

[Bowdrie]

It seems as though we have perhaps a "failure to communicate" in regard to terminology.
Yes, you have a Wilcox-Crittenden seacock.
In one of the pictures, it shows where a wrench was used on the square protrusion.
That protrusion is not a separate/removable part, it's part of the tapered cone/barrel, along with the threaded stud at the other end.
The flanged nut holds the cone in place, the nut you show does not appear to be damaged and the square end of the cone, whilst showing some "rounding" of part of one edge is not un-serviceable.
Also, one of the pics shows the "retaining nut", that is used as a lock nut against the flange nut to prevent the flange nut from backing-off from the cone.
It appears that none of the nuts need replacing.
What needs to be done is to "un-freeze" the tapered cone from its tapered seat in the body.
Note: neither the threaded stud sticking out from the cone or either one of the nuts are pipe threads, they are both standard thread sizes like you would find on a bolt.
Put some rags around the seacock and give it a good bath in PB Blaster around the circumferences where the tapered cone meets the seacock body.
Give it some time, (not minutes, some real time).
Now, that nut, (the lock nut,) that's shown partially threaded on the stud, remove it.
Replace the flange nut on its shaft, add the lock nut.
Jam the two nuts together such that none of the threaded stud is sticking out beyond the jammed-together nuts.
Give the nuts a whack with a brass hammer, start light.
You want to push the tapered cone back out of its tapered seat, (crack loose the frozen joint).
If successful, great. If not, then there are still other options that do not require beating things into destruction, or worse, breaking the seacock loose from the boat/thru hull fitting, (noticing that there is no backing plate nor thru bolts securing the seacock).

[sheliadempsey]

Thank you, I'm going down tomorrow after work and will try what you said, thanks again.