Can you replace a section of jib track...?

[Rol1964]

Currently working on jib tracks and chainplates... the port jib track is quite eroded on the bottom in 3 places. t looks like it would be difficult / impossible to seal under it as it sits on the deck. Unfortunately it's 10' long and to buy a replacement is a bit out of the budget for now. Is it possible to salvage some of it and butt join it to new piece to get the full 10'? Simple logic tells me it's a bad idea...comments appreciated.

[Apollo19.5]

Simple logic is correct. It is possible, however needs near perfect alignment and for that allignment to remain in place to alow smooth transistion of the car between the two sections. Depending of the set up, the degree of perfect allignment varies. I have done it on a previous boat, but it didnt need adjustment to remain trouble free. If you do go ahead, ensure the most used section is your longest continous section and it is well secured at both sides of the joint to avoid movement. Alternative is to possibly source a secondhand section the right full length that falls within your budget. Good luck.

[rognvald]

Yes, no problem and . . . how often do you move your jib sheet leads when you sail? Most sailors I know never move them despite the necessity to do so for optimum sailing. The most important concern is that the deck is sealed properly after the installation with no chance of leaks.
Rognvald

[Jim Cate]

Perhaps you should consider re-habing the corroded tracks. The missing material on the bottom could be replaced by epoxy with high density filler, carefully filed to shape once set up. The corroded countersinks could similarly be rebuilt and use of the plastic countersink inserts offered with some tracks could be used as well.

This process would likely work for some while, for the loads on the tracks on a 26 foot sloop are not terribly high... and no alignment issues would plague your installation.

Jim

[Rol1964]

I’m actually working on my Pearson 34…(I will have to adjust my profile as this keeps coming up and causing confusion). Coincidentally I was thinking about rehabbing the original track…might be most practical approach. There are 3 x nasty pockets of corrosion and dust on the underside. All of the countersinks on top are fine.

[rognvald]

One last thought, Rol,
If I were going to remove a section of my sheet track, I would opt taking it from forward rather than aft since the sheet leads to depower a sail and produce a more effective sail shape are really necessary aft. Even flying a 130% genoa downwind, you'd never use the track to the end forward. Good luck.
Rognvald

[Rol1964]

Originally Posted by rognvald

One last thought, Rol,
If I were going to remove a section of my sheet track, I would opt taking it from forward rather than aft since the sheet leads to depower a sail and produce a more effective sail shape are really necessary aft. Even flying a 130% genoa downwind, you'd never use the track to the end forward. Good luck.
Rognvald

Good suggestion Rod, thanks. However, it was also suggested to restore the track rail as another option so before I start hacking up pieces I will attempt this. I will post pics if it turns out ok.
Cheers, Rol

[Cheechako]

Do you actually use the 10 ft of track? If not, maybe just replace the length you use . Save the cost of replacing the portion you dont use. But yes you can butt them up if you want. As mentioned alignment is key, but you could taper the ends a bit to get a car to slide through.
Is track that expensive now?
The labor is often the big part of track replacement... as the back side is often inacessible...

[Rol1964]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Do you actually use the 10 ft of track? If not, maybe just replace the length you use . Save the cost of replacing the portion you dont use. But yes you can butt them up if you want. As mentioned alignment is key, but you could taper the ends a bit to get a car to slide through.
Is track that expensive now?
The labor is often the big part of track replacement... as the back side is often inacessible...

I went straight to the Schaefer site and I found a piece of track that was long enough. It was over US $400...
This is a new to me and recent purchase (a bit of a project not gonna lie). I'm starting by getting her cleaned up, weathertite and functional. Not trying to make her new again. Doing the work myself...learning as I go.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Rol1964

I went straight to the Schaefer site and I found a piece of track that was long enough. It was over US $400...
This is a new to me and recent purchase (a bit of a project not gonna lie). I'm starting by getting her cleaned up, weathertite and functional. Not trying to make her new again. Doing the work myself...learning as I go.

Wowser! Ridiculous.
Any boat salvage places around your area? They used to be a good source. Some of my boats had SS track in lieu of aluminum.
Are they actually leaking at the corrosion? Or just a worry?

[Rol1964]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Wowser! Ridiculous.
Any boat salvage places around your area? They used to be a good source. Some of my boats had SS track in lieu of aluminum.
Are they actually leaking at the corrosion? Or just a worry?

They were definitely leaking but not anymore. No boat junkyards close to me. I'll restore what I have and see how it goes.

[Rol1964]

I said I'd post snaps but I didn't cause I got busy and got at it to get it done...(wife losing patience with boat jobs!). But I did rehab the underside of the original 9 ft track with high density epoxy filler then I redrilled the holes which were collaterally filled. Lightly sanded to make flat then rebedded with butyl. Seems like a good short term - permanent fix.

[donradcliffe]

Having ripped the jib track out of the deck on an older Pearson when the skipper told me to give it the last angry inch, I know there are significant loads on jib tracks. If you had cut the track and replaced with a series of shorter sections, the fastener loads are higher at the end of each section.

Many older boats are going to the excavator these days--find the guys that are doing it, and ask if you can have an hour to take the track of one of these boats.

[areddon]

I tried it on Cheoy Lee Robb 35. It is nearly impossible to get the butt joint perfect and then it is not likely to stay perfectly aligned over long haul. If you think about the loading of the tracks, it seems that the epoxy filler solution as a permanent spacer on the bottom would be best if the countersinks are still good and too much material is gone. Wish I had done that.

[areddon]

… not too much material is gone …