Can you replace a section of jib track...?

[Rol1964]

Currently working on jib tracks and chainplates... the port jib track is quite eroded on the bottom in 3 places. t looks like it would be difficult / impossible to seal under it as it sits on the deck. Unfortunately it's 10' long and to buy a replacement is a bit out of the budget for now. Is it possible to salvage some of it and butt join it to new piece to get the full 10'? Simple logic tells me it's a bad idea...comments appreciated.

[Apollo19.5]

Simple logic is correct. It is possible, however needs near perfect alignment and for that allignment to remain in place to alow smooth transistion of the car between the two sections. Depending of the set up, the degree of perfect allignment varies. I have done it on a previous boat, but it didnt need adjustment to remain trouble free. If you do go ahead, ensure the most used section is your longest continous section and it is well secured at both sides of the joint to avoid movement. Alternative is to possibly source a secondhand section the right full length that falls within your budget. Good luck.

[rognvald]

Yes, no problem and . . . how often do you move your jib sheet leads when you sail? Most sailors I know never move them despite the necessity to do so for optimum sailing. The most important concern is that the deck is sealed properly after the installation with no chance of leaks.
Rognvald

[Jim Cate]

Perhaps you should consider re-habing the corroded tracks. The missing material on the bottom could be replaced by epoxy with high density filler, carefully filed to shape once set up. The corroded countersinks could similarly be rebuilt and use of the plastic countersink inserts offered with some tracks could be used as well.

This process would likely work for some while, for the loads on the tracks on a 26 foot sloop are not terribly high... and no alignment issues would plague your installation.

Jim

[Rol1964]

I’m actually working on my Pearson 34…(I will have to adjust my profile as this keeps coming up and causing confusion). Coincidentally I was thinking about rehabbing the original track…might be most practical approach. There are 3 x nasty pockets of corrosion and dust on the underside. All of the countersinks on top are fine.

[rognvald]

One last thought, Rol,
If I were going to remove a section of my sheet track, I would opt taking it from forward rather than aft since the sheet leads to depower a sail and produce a more effective sail shape are really necessary aft. Even flying a 130% genoa downwind, you'd never use the track to the end forward. Good luck.
Rognvald

[Rol1964]

Originally Posted by rognvald

One last thought, Rol,
If I were going to remove a section of my sheet track, I would opt taking it from forward rather than aft since the sheet leads to depower a sail and produce a more effective sail shape are really necessary aft. Even flying a 130% genoa downwind, you'd never use the track to the end forward. Good luck.
Rognvald

Good suggestion Rod, thanks. However, it was also suggested to restore the track rail as another option so before I start hacking up pieces I will attempt this. I will post pics if it turns out ok.
Cheers, Rol

[Cheechako]

Do you actually use the 10 ft of track? If not, maybe just replace the length you use . Save the cost of replacing the portion you dont use. But yes you can butt them up if you want. As mentioned alignment is key, but you could taper the ends a bit to get a car to slide through.
Is track that expensive now?
The labor is often the big part of track replacement... as the back side is often inacessible...