Carvel refit.

[samfreeland]

some more pictures. IL keep chipping away the amount of galvanised rusty fittings I've managed to get out has been quite good a big pile of rust gone including stations pushpit ect most came out OK but a few snapped off and will have to be entombed in the timber with epoxy.

[samfreeland]

And on and on.

[samfreeland]

The coaching isn't very solid I'm going to try and fit this one in it is much stronger. I also have the kauri bulk head out of the same boat that will fit this one.

[Hesti]

Nice boat, solidly built hull. A lot of work but can be very rewarding. I wish you all the very very best. You probably know these guys The WoodenBoat Forum ? Sometimes good knowledge there.

There is a chandler in Germany specializing in traditional gear, I believe they deliver worldwide. Might be worth knowing they exist at times https://www.toplicht.de/en/

It is a lifestyle. Few people outside of wooden boating understand the special aspects of stockholm tar and why it is important to talk a butcher into providing you with unsalted tallow.

[samfreeland]

Thank you I will certainly have a look. I really need to put my foot down and get a bit of way on here. We are getting a lot of hot weather coming across from Australia and although I probably have the coolest shed in the yard it's still too warm. I have to polish every rivet in the bildge and I have four litres of red led to soak it in. I'm thinking the deck after that. Then tighten most of the caulking and reputty. Then start throwing sea water around. get my wood man to do the planks. Then recaulk what I have to. And splash. If it goes that we'll IL eat my hat. I will check that site out. You can't get white lead here anymore so my seams will be red. I'm thinking that's how it will go but if anyone has a better idea I will take that information on board I'm open to advice from people who have been in this position and may no better than me. Thanks .

[Hesti]

Quite a to do list. Respect!

Against drying out: Often done: Moisten the floor under the boat. One guy I knew fixed blankets to the boat (outside or was it outside and inside?) and kept them moist with I believe salt water. He then had plastic cover over that to reduce moisture loss into the air. He worked on that boat for several years - when he worked, he removed the blankets where he worked and when he didn't work on the boat, the blankets were in place and he just had to keep them moist. As long as the bilge still holds the water, you can also throw a few buckets of salt water into the bilge and refill whenever needed. It has to be salt water.

As for the caulking - ideally, a hull should be caulked when it is swollen up, unless you are talking a new boat. When a hull has dried, and you caulk, you can easily hammer more caulking into the seams than is good for the seams. With the result, that when the hull swells up, the now overcaulked seam crushes wood fibres and the result is, that the seam now is bigger than it was. So - to avoid water coming through the seams on a dried out boat, you do not use caulking but you use slickseam (or similar stuff). Traditionally, wooden boats were often lowered very slowly into the water (stayed a few days in the slings with the bilge already in the water) to swell up.

It is a lifestyle ... A wooden boat demands a very high priority in life.

I have to say, that our then wooden boat had a well built double layer for and aft carvel glued together hull. Although it did leak a bit through the seams at the plank ends and the seam at the keel, caulking remained pure theorie for us. On the other hand, if that hull had dried, we would have had to deal with many splits in the planking.

[samfreeland]

I thinking I may need some sauce to go with my hat.
:

[Hesti]

Now you lost me ... What does that mean?

[samfreeland]

I mentioned in one of the previous replys if it went that we'll I would eat my hat looking at the job at hand I think I will have to get some sauce to go with it so it tastes better. My attempt at humor.

[samfreeland]

This seams to work well for cleaning the roves and rivets up nicely. Now I just need an unsuspecting guest to turn up to hold the old scraper because the drill gets away on me.
Note my friend is very suspecting when he visits I rope him in to all kinds of work which I am very thankful for.

[samfreeland]

Well after doing a half dozen that brush is a bit harsh and scratching them a bit to much. I will shop around for a softer wire.
Another thing I have to watch for when I paint the bildge is paint running between the gaps in the planks so I will mask them paint and then cut each plank in. Otherwise it will never take up and always leak. Another tip I have got off the Internet.

[samfreeland]

The belting the head sail tracks bolt to are passed it as well. I'm thinking of cutting this piece down the centre and using it the piece leaning on its side . It's the back bone out of a different boat it won't be long enough but will do for the tracks. Any readers will have to forgive my bad boat terminology.

[samfreeland]

I have only taken this much of the deck off. When I finish replacing it I will take a bit more off. My wood man says the timbers will start to move if it all came off and sat to long. You can sea a couple of planks need replacing to. I have the old ones as templates.

[Hesti]

You will get there. She will look very good in the end, with shiny rivets and all.

You have the boat in a shed, out of the sun and out of the warm winds, that is worth something already wrt. to taking action against drying, it is certainly slowng it down

I have to appologize for giving unasked for advice, so, please do not eat your hat, it might not be good for you and you might still need it.

I had a slightly frustrating day on our new to us older f-glas boat yesterday, I am also going through learning curves.

[samfreeland]

I appreciate any advice and have taken a few ideas on board from the comments. I am also hoping wooden boat enthusiasts like the pictures. the people who built these kind of boats certainly had Tallent and are getting harder to find these days. I'm sure you will get on top of any learning curve on your boat. their is nothing as good as messing around on boats.
it always suprises me that under the engine is the filthiest place on the boat but the timbers there always seem to be ok.