Cavalier 32 keel bolt backing plates

[Arion1234]

I recently purchased a Cavalier 32 built in 1974. She raced in the 1974 Sydney Hobart race under the name, Cavalier 1, but has seen better days. The backing plates for the stainless steel keelbolts are made from mild steel and are severely corroded. I am not sure why mild steel was used - I have seen some Cavaliers, with a later build date, that have stainless steel backing plates. I've read some posts about other models of boats with similar issues but am wondering if there are any members with specific knowledge of early Cavalier 32s. It seems such a shabby installation for a builder of high repute. I believe the keelbolts are cast into the keel with a tee-section at the bottom suggesting to me they cannot be replaced either. I am not ready to go cruising again but would be reluctant to go to sea without remedying this problem.

[neilpride]

The ones with SS keel bolts backing plates must be the same ones that had your problem in the past.

I paste a thread here about a Cav32 with a similar problem.

https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...ts-247833.html

[nuku34]

Hello to the OP, I'm the person who posted a reply in the tread mentioned by neilpride. Your Cav must also be NZ built since it was built in '74. Mine is from '73

NZ Cav 32's were built really well and there is no way the factory would have put mild steel backing plates on the keel bolts. The originals were stainless, but after many years in a wet bilge, the SS will corrode. My plates are SS, but not original.

Since your boat has "seen better days" (which is a real shame since Cav's are fantastic yachts), it doesn't surprise me that some idiot substituted mild steel for the original ss plates to save a few bob.
The keel bolts are "J" shape, cast into the lead keel and cannot be removed without dropping the keel and doing some very nasty work with an angle grinder and chain saw.



I suggest you haul the yacht, take off the nuts and the plates, replace the plates with 8-10mm thick 50mm square 316 stainless plates and torque the nuts down with a big socket and a "cheater" bar. If you still have a wet bilge, you will have to drop the keel and re-bed it to the hull. There is no structural reason to have a wet bilge in a Cav32. It can only result from neglect.

[Arion1234]

Thanks for your reply. I had read your reply to the other post. That OPs photos certainly looked like the backing plates were rusty - same staining in the bilges. Maybe his were just discoloured stainless. Mine are corroded. The only water in the bilge comes from rain water that comes down the mast. When it is not raining, the bilges are dry. It is unfortunate that the builder used j bolts. I have seen lead keels with apertures cast in to give access to nuts on the bottom, allowing keelbolts to be extracted. I have never heard of a Cavalier losing its keel though!

[Arion1234]

Thanks Neil. I had seen that post though unfortunately there was no following post. I would have liked to see how his project developed.

[neilpride]

I have already lowered some keels, a few times to replace everything, keel bolts, washers etc. others for damage to the structure, in my opinion,if your keel bolts are healthy, change the backing plates one by one with the boat on the hard, not big deal, if you can get the torque bolt from the builder much better.