CDI Roller Furling 4/6 Problem

[captnsassy]

Hello friends!

Help needed. I have an 1976 Oday 27, with a CDI roller furling headsail. Per the faded instruction manual, it says CDI reefer 4/6. My problem is this is that the roller furling seems to have a problem with the furling line wrapping around the "drum" externally of the lineguards and drum halfs. This is not working! Not to mention, a storm and strong waves caused the line guard and the lineguard which has the hole for the furling line to feed thru, was also bent somewhat and the drum itself was cracked/chipped.

This rig worked fine before, but now, it makes it impossible almost to furl and unfurl the headsails smoothly.
Is this furling system, too old to repair or get parts on? Shall i consider a new one or do i have simple options? Anyone have experience with this darn blasted CDI?
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..help...
Mark

[FrankZ]

You can contact CDI and see what they have to say. If it is the older version I think you can't get those parts any more. The newer style has been in use for a while and you may be able to get the parts to fix it. If not this is not a real expensive replacement.

[captnsassy]

did my pics show up in this thread? I did attach some.
grrrrr

[FrankZ]

They did not.

[captnsassy]

got the pics added

[knothead]

There is a little part inside your drum that is supposed to be clamped on the t-bolt of the turnbuckle. In your case, this clamp is not holding and is allowing the entire drum to turn.
You need to disassemble the drum and tighten up the clamp. There are a lot of little screws and nuts so be careful not to drop them, but it's a simple fix.
It will make sense to you when you take it apart.

[captnsassy]

Knothead - you've used this system before huh? The biggest problem I see is that the drum turns, but so does the line guards with it. I think that, along with the cracked drum half is just also adding to the problem.

So a part is clamped on the T-bolt of the turnbuckle hm? Will definitely check into it.
This roller furling did work before nicely when i first bought the boat (typical huh?)

Mark

[knothead]

Originally Posted by captnsassy

Knothead - you've used this system before huh?

I've never owned one, but I've repaired many of them.
I've had a rigging business for some time.

[tartan27]

I have an older CDI 4/6 reefer that is missing most of the torque links.
Does anyone know of a source for these since CDI no longer has access to them.
barring that I will have to offer the system up for parts...
Perhaps someone has an older system somewhere?
I did cut some of them in half but am still short 4 or 5 links.
Thanks!
Rich

[CA Dude]

I recently made 3 successful torque links from a furler extrusion piece and have detailed below the procedure I created to make them.

Materials Needed:
Furler extrusion rod
JB Weld SteelStik (one entire tube makes 3 torque links)
Grinder with a metal cutting disc
Long #2 Phillips screwdriver
File
Wire brush
SOS pad
Cooking oil
Plastic wrap
Pencil

Optional:
At least one original torque link

Step 1: Cut a 4" section of the furler extrusion and place the original torque link (TL) into the corresponding hole in the rod. Mark the end of the TL on the outside of the extrusion rod in pencil.
Step 2: Cut the extrusion horizontally down the side, resulting in two equal halves. From here, you will only need the half holding the torque link. Clean up the rough edges at both ends using the file. Make sure that the TL slides freely through the extrusion.
Step 3: Throughly clean the inside of the extrusion using a wire brush and a SOS pad. Once dry, oil the inside of the extrusion using the cooking oil and place a piece of plastic wrap over the extrusion, making sure to cover each groove and leave excess plastic wrap hanging over the sides.
Step 4: Dispense 1/3 of the tube of JB Weld SteelStik and prepare it appropriately according to the package. Place it evenly into the plastic wrapped extrusion cavity and press it firmly with your fingers to create the molded link. Place the long #2 Phillips screwdriver down the center of the horizontal link to create the clearance for the forestay. As the SteelStik presses out from the middle, flatten out the sides.
Step 5: Let the SteelStik cure for 4 minutes and gently pull the extra plastic around the edges at one end to slide out the molded piece.
Step 6: Allow the newly formed TL to continue to dry and set for 2 hours. Once completely dry, clean up and rough edges using the file.

If you have any questions or need any additional information, please email me at vandbross@verizon.net.

[Jmstee]

Hello

We recently bought a boat with this ridiculous furler on it. also has chunks missing from the drum which causes the line to fall off get jammed and never furl well. I worked on that with some improvement but really i think its time to upgrade when the budget allows.

For anyone that has this especially captnsassy with a very rare owners manual is the tack of the sail just supposed to be tied to the cleat? I couldn't find much info but the tack and halyard were tied to the two cleats when we bought the boat but I am wondering if there should be a shackle in one of the plastic drum loops. I can't find any info. any help is much appreciated, I am ordering a new genoa and they want measurements for the design.