Chainplate Bedding

[theonecalledtom]

Its amazing how much of a mess 4200 makes when you put WAY too much on and tighten down the bolts....

Now I've done two CPs it looks like it'll take about 1 -> 1.5 hours apiece to remove, cleanup and replace the others, depending on the amount of rust trying to bond with the fiberglass and provided I don't put as much sealant on as that first one when an extra hour is needed to undo the gooey mess!

[s/v Jedi]

If you really really want a liquid gasket, then lifecaulk or 3M 101 is the best product (these are poly-sulphates).

That said, nothing beats a 1/8" or 1/16" thick neoprene gasket. Search this forum for it, I've posted info and pics.

ciao!
Nick.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by theonecalledtom

Its amazing how much of a mess 4200 makes when you put WAY too much on and tighten down the bolts....

Now I've done two CPs it looks like it'll take about 1 -> 1.5 hours apiece to remove, cleanup and replace the others, depending on the amount of rust trying to bond with the fiberglass and provided I don't put as much sealant on as that first one when an extra hour is needed to undo the gooey mess!

Congrats! Better too much than too little. Have fun with the rest 1 1/2 each isn't bad.
You might think about a roloc grinder disc setup on a die grinder or even a cordless to scratch up the glass for some tooth...

[Mark Johnson]

5200 would be fine, as you should never have to remove them again. 4200 UV would also be fine, and would resist crumbling on the edges longer. I would not paint them, but instead, polish them out like chrome! Also, be sure to use 316 SS bolts to match the chainplates, or they become the "anode". (Fastenall) IF you can't fit backing plates, or they wouldn't lay flat with uniform contact, I'd use a stack of first a 1.5" and then a 1" fender washer under each nut. Torque down the bolts like it was the head on an engine... "opposing corners". Once snug, you can leave it alone, but IF you prefer to have a "loose snug" and put another 1/4 turn on them a week later, be SURE that the bolts do NOT turn at all, or you break the seal at their heads.

Good luck with it!
M.

[Patrick_DeepPlaya]

Here's a writeup on my chainplate refinish and rebedding. We used Butyl AND Sika flex.
S/V Deep Playa – Pearson 424 - Chainplates : Before and After

Hope it helps...

-p

[CaptainBW]

Island Packet recommends a GE product called Silpruf for bedding/rebedding chainplates on IPs. When cured, Silpruf adheres well to stainless steel and will withstand the flex that occurs in the chainplate areas. Most IP owners (including me) swear by it.

Most people also recommend cleaning out the old bedding first, tension the rig second and then replace the bedding.

You can get good information on using it at Island Packet Owners web site iphomeport.com

I second the comments that it is a less than desireable job!

[Patrick_DeepPlaya]

The product is silicone based manufactured by GE
Weatherseal - Silicone Product Guide - GE Sealants

-p