Clever solutions for mounting hardware onto an inaccessible space?

[wholybee]

It is difficult to come up with a plan without actually seeing the space(s). If you have any access at all to these spaces, just not enough to get something there.

Drill a hole where you want the bolt. Insert a string. Use a vacuum to pull the string to where you can get it. Attach a bolt, washers etc. to the string. Pull it back through the hole.

[Franziska]

Originally Posted by wholybee

It is difficult to come up with a plan without actually seeing the space(s). If you have any access at all to these spaces, just not enough to get something there.

Drill a hole where you want the bolt. Insert a string. Use a vacuum to pull the string to where you can get it. Attach a bolt, washers etc. to the string. Pull it back through the hole.

That's some clever lateral thinking. Cool idea!!

[stormalong]

Any type of line, including dyneema will be weaker if glued in place. The individual strands need to stretch to share the load.

For the foredeck fittings you definitely need a backer board to spread the load. Without it you will pull the fittings out and damage the deck. There are ways to add the board even if you cannot reach it directly. As long as you can get the board through the hole you can glue it with thickened epoxy and pull it into place with some cheap rope.

[Franziska]

Originally Posted by stormalong

Any type of line, including dyneema will be weaker if glued in place. The individual strands need to stretch to share the load.

For the foredeck fittings you definitely need a backer board to spread the load. Without it you will pull the fittings out and damage the deck. There are ways to add the board even if you cannot reach it directly. As long as you can get the board through the hole you can glue it with thickened epoxy and pull it into place with some cheap rope.

Thank you & all the others.

The metal fitting is L shaped and goes on the stem and on the deck. The stem is very solid hardwood with heavy fiberglass.
I'd glue the bolts in there following Gugeons method.
On the deck I would screw into the deck though & yes the idea to drill the holes and catch a string fed through with a vaccum cleaner is superb.
Works for the backing plate, and, the bolts.
Still, if I use a thick enough backing plate I might even have a chance to cast those bolts in too.

But 90% of the load would be on the stem.

If I do it with Dyneema, I'll probably glass in a loop or a tube and put the loop through it.
In this case it's only on the stem.
Final decision pending..

[Franziska]

OK, here is what I do.
I'll get two strong stainlesd D rings.
Put some washing up liquid on the straight side as release agent.
Grind off paint at the bow to laminate (200mm diameter).
Laminate one heavy layer of glass, add a layer of Kevlar underneath the D-ring. Thread a number of wide Kevlar bands through the D ring (spread their angles).
Thread a heavy layer of glass through the D-Ring and add two big patches of glass on top, followed by peelply.

All with epoxy.

Kevlar takes the load and reduces wear.

Esentially a metal composite padeye. Avoids any potential problems with glued in bolts, allows D ring to rotate longitudinaly and avoids the problem of needing to replace everything due to a worn out Dyneema line.

The D-ring can sit at the very end of the bow this way and allows the laminate to go onto deck and stem.

[ggray]

Originally Posted by Franziska

That looks great! Nice find. Thank you.
But, I just noted it's not metric, which is an issue over here in Europe...

These do work well.

If this is the best solution for you, and you can't find them locally (metric), order from this place along with some bolts. We won't rat on you!