convince me to roll and tip, instead of spray

[theller]

Fully tented boat - all 42' of it. Ability to control environment through the winter w/ a 200k btu kerosene heater. Using AlexSeal

My favorite old head painter in the yard keeps telling me to roll and tip. Says that the low time involved compensates for all the blocking and wet sanding to get a glass finish after roll and tip. Talks about the cost of time to setup for spraying being high.

My deep core tells me that I'm gonna get the best finish with the least amount of post paint work (wet sanding) with a spray finish. Also, I've got a lotta hours behind a gun, so I'm not afraid of it.

Talk me out of spraying?

[BCCLover]

We rolled 2-part Interlux Perfection (only rolled, no tipping on the white) onto Calypso this winter. No wet sanding needed between coats, though obviously if that's required with Alex Seal then you need to do that.

We've had too many people to count come by and comment on the job. "Oh, where did you get it sprayed?" "Is that a new boat?" (It's a 1976 hull we've had since 1992.) "You're hired anytime you want to come work for me." (2 separate yards who do acclaimed paint work.)

You've got to mask and tape regardless of which method you use. I think there's more prep in the, well, prep - the sanding and filling and priming.

You can get an excellent finish with rolling and tipping. We're proof of it.

[Chotu]

I didn’t even know what you were talking about with wet sanding after applying paint.

That’s because I sprayed my boat.

We got the boat right, fair, ready for paint. Then we sprayed a high build primer coat. Sanded that down so it was nice. Then I sprayed the final coat. All done.

I wouldn’t talk you out of spraying.

[Fore and Aft]

Theller how much moisture is that Kero heater pumping into the tent? I have had good results using electric heaters inside boats during winter while spraying.
I am all for spraying. There's a 50-foot alloy yacht near us that has been rolled, tipped and buffed to a spray like finish but what a job. Way too much effort for the same result a few hours on the gun will give you. The hardest part of any painting is the masking and tenting up, the application of the paint is the easy bit.
Having watched the alloy yacht being hand painted I wondered about the evenness of the topcoat paint thickness on the hull. Having measured countless paint coatings on gas pipelines I know how hard it is to get an even finish coat. Then sanding it after application must put a whole new dimension into the coating thickness.
Cheer

[Bill O]

Spray it, much less work.

[catalystcat]

You already have it taped, you have it tented, you have it prepped, you have spray experience... that's like 90% of the work (other than post-application sanding and buffing).

As long as you aren't working with some finicky paint that will give your gun fits and as long as you don't mind the post-spray cleanup work and the likely higher paint consumption, I can't see why you wouldn't spray.

You're probably still gonna have to do good amount of post application finish polishing and buffing. But, unless you are exceptional at managing your mix and have great tipping technique, the post-spray work will be less.

The only other reason I can think of to go with roll and tip is predictability. Not orange peel, no powdering overspray, almost no clouding. But, if you have the experience and are using a predictable paint, this should be a low risk.

On the other hand, either way can produce an excellent finish... So, I wouldn't overthink it.

Then again, if you want to show off your sanding skills and endurance, a thick application of roll and tip set you up really well....

[Benz]

I use roll-and-tip only when spray is not possible. Far prefer a good spray finish.

[Jammer]

Two part paint?


Got an SCBA? Using it?


Like your lungs and body the way it is?

[psk125]

Like Jammer, I was going to suggest a positive pressure air breathing system

[S/V Illusion]

10 foot rule -

If you only look at the finish from 10 feet or more away, spraying isn’t necessary. Otherwise, ….

[JPA Cate]

The long hours work done in prep to get a really good surface took days (8-5), four guys working and four days. The painter came and sprayed, and on this 46 ft boat, it took about 2/3 of his day to do all the topsides, but not the deck and cabin.

I have seen some very good roll and tip jobs; and some not so good ones, too. If it were me, I would not like the commitment to hours of wet sanding in winter, even if the heater could keep it warm. And, if the heater is a type that puts out water with its heat, then it could give the paint itself issues.

Make sure the prep is as close to perfect as you can make it, then use your spraying skills to good advantage, mate, is my advice; and wait for a rain-free day when the air is less humid.

Ann

[MicHughV]

I've done roll and tip several times and was surprised at how well the finish was. Looked like a spray job to me. Surface prep is mandatory though, but this holds true for a spray job as well.

I painted over an epoxy painted hull with a two-part polyurethane paint. Ironically, epoxy paint makes for a good primer/base coat for the finish coat.

The trick is to keep a "wet edge" at all times.

Prior to painting, I had a "pro" give me some tips, so this is what I did.

I would roll in a horizontal layer from top to bottom in about a 4' section, using a smooth foam roller, then start right back at the top. After the second 4' was done, I'd tip it, then continue on down the hull. A really good high quality tipping brush is required. Spend the money to avoid brush hairs in your paint job.

Don't stop for any reason until you have one entire side done. Do the side in the morning or afternoon shade. You can do one side in the morning shade and the other side in the afternoon shade.
If you are mixing a two part paint and you are on your own, mix enough to do one side.
You will likely have to go up and down a ladder or scaffold many times. It will be quite the workout. Then prepare for the other side. Do the transom last.

Prior to starting, I'd prepare everything beforehand,....paint, brushes, rollers, drill mixer, thinner, etc, etc and have it close at hand, in the shade next to the keel or some other convenient shady spot.

I wore plastic gloves, a mask and goggles, a hat and some old work clothes.

It will be a workout, this is a given, but you'll be pleased at the end result.

[donradcliffe]

I did one roll and tip job, and was disappointed with the results. The prep work was the same, but the finish wasn't near as good.

[flee27]

IMO if you have all the proper spray equipment/knowledge and a good environment you will never beat a good spray job so why not spray.

If any of the above are not obtainable the roll/tip? Have you watched the

BoatworksToday

video regarding painting with AlexSeal and their additive that eliminates the tipping. The results were pretty impressive.

Good luck with you paint job. Share your experience and some pictures when you done.

Foster

[capt jgw]

30 or so years ago I painted my 30 footer with Interlux Interthane Plus. That's the forerunner of Perfection, I don't know if they changed the paint any or just the name. I've use Perfection too and can't see a difference. Per the instructions no tipping was required for any of the whites or off white colors, which was what used. That saved a lot of work, no scaffolding required and I used a roller on an eight foot handle to do it all from the ground. Deck height was about ten feet so that was a huge advantage. I put on three coats in three days, no sanding in between also per the instructions. Finish came out very good, the only flaw I could find was a six or eight inch spot where I got the film on a little too thick and got a slight lace curtain. Hardly noticable, I only saw it cause I knew it was there. There's no over spray with rolling, you only need one run of tape for the edges. Spraying you need to mask of a couple feet all around. Again more work. Plus I had never used a spray gun, still haven't and don't want to try and learn on a project that size. Current boat has very badly oxidized gelcoat, I'm going to try wet sand and polish first, if that doesn't bring it back I'll roll and probably not tip again. Alexseal with it's no tip additive looks promising, but in white you can get an acceptable finish without tipping with other brands as well. Alexseal just let's you do it in any color. This boat isn't as high so I can do it all from the ground, tipping or not. For someone with a lot of spray experience and the proper safety gear, that's probably a no brainier. But that's not me.