Cotter keys or retaining rings?

[GadgetGeek]

I have been checking out a 38' blue-water cutter-rigged cruising sailboat to buy and noticed most of the standing rigging is missing either ring pins or cotter keys.

The rigging is new but it seems the owners just didn't finish with tuning it and so there are no pins or rings in anything at the deck level. The turnbuckles are beefy. I have no clue what the tensions should be on anything yet.

On < 30' racing boats, we'd often tune the rig between races so rings were helpful but that would not the case with this boat.

As it relates to pins vs. rings, is there a rule of thumb for what to use where?

[billknny]

I use rings only where I want to remove them by hand regularly, and never any place where a loss of the ring would be a potential disaster, such as standing rigging. They DO have a way of undoing themselves, somehow!

Cotter pins suck, but they are reliable.

On my boat I use 3mm machine screws and nylock nuts instead of cotter pins. No pointy ends to snag sails and skin. There are a lot of other alternatives. Brion Toss has recommended welding rod bent to fit from top to bottom of a turnbuckle. Looks sharp, works. More effort to install.

When you get ready to do your own tuning, this book "Sail and Rig Tuning" has the best description of how to do it I have seen.

[dfelsent]

And you need a keeper. I’ve seen turnbuckles without rings or pins back out and disconnect!

[CassidyNZ]

To avoid the sharp tips of the split pins tearing sails, I have fitted lock nuts top and bottom on each turnbuckle. LH threaded nuts are freely available. In the unlikely event one comes loose, the chances of two coming loose on the same turnbuckle is remote.

Using nuts also has the advantage that when it becomes necessary to slack off a stay wire for any reason, by cracking off the nut and leaving it where it is one always has an accurate record of how to tension the wire when refitting.

Edit: When I say locking nuts, I don’t mean nylocs, just standard thin profile stainless nuts.

[FabioC]

I would say both pins and rings can work well and reliably, as long as you tape over them diligently. If you do not need to remove them ever, pins require marginally less tape...

[Wulf]

My preference is a bit of tape over cotter pins. A lot of people spread/bend cotter pins way too much making subsequent removal difficult. You only need to spread them 10 or 15 degrees to prevent accidental loss and will pat yourself on the back next time you pull them. Especially in an emergency.

[Brewgyver]

Originally Posted by CassidyNZ

Edit: When I say locking nuts, I don’t mean nylocs, just standard thin profile stainless nuts.

In the U.S., at least, they are referred to as Jam Nuts, they're specifically made for turnbuckles.

[waterman46]

Originally Posted by Wulf

My preference is a bit of tape over cotter pins. A lot of people spread/bend cotter pins way too much making subsequent removal difficult. You only need to spread them 10 or 15 degrees to prevent accidental loss and will pat yourself on the back next time you p wiull them. Especially in an emergency.

In an emergency, you want to cut the wire, not play with hammers and pliers on deck in rough conditions. Use the right tool: a big wire cutter sized for your rigging. Even if you can quickly remove a cotter pin in what are likely to be very rough conditions, you may still have to pound out the clevis pin since it will probably be in a lot of tension (otherwise no need to remove it, right?) In fact it may be impossible to remove under tension, and that is why offshore rules require a wire cutter, as far as I know.

I always carry the appropriate wire cutter and I always bend each half of a cotter pin around in a tight circle back on itself so nothing can catch on them. No need for tape, which will come off when you are not looking.

It is every bit as important for running rigging to be just as secure at all times as standing rigging. Otherwise accidents may happen. So I don't use cotter rings in anything that might cause harm if it could come loose. On my boat, that is everything!

[Cheechako]

I found by trying rings on a cruising boat that sometimes the turnbuckles would turn and twist the rings into a mess. This was probably because the holes in the turnbuckles were small enough I had to use rings that weren't of very thick material. It really surprised me that the turnbuckles would twist with that much force though.
I never used rings again.

[S/V Adeline]

As it relates to taping of cotter pins, I have seen some use tape solely on the ends of the pin, which allows the clevis pin to rotate, while others (most I have seen) tape the cotter pin firmly against the turnbuckle, which prevents the clevis pin from rotating.
Is there a preferred method depending on application or just personal preference?

[deblen]

Velcro pins-really slick. Have been using the same ones for 5 summers.
You can also make them yourself. / Len


https://www.westmarine.com/buy/c-she...20--P010071934

[ramblinrod]

I like cotter rings.

Used properly they won’t snag on sails, lines, or clothing.

They don’t have to be uncovered to check their condition.

They can be removed and replaced without tools.

They can be re-used many times without weakening and requiring replacement.

[Disailor]

Easy on the tape, stainless needs oxygen to prevent corrosion

[RaymondR]

These are available in SS and numerous sizes and dont have the sharp ends of split or cotter pins.

[ramblinrod]

Originally Posted by RaymondR

These are available in SS and numerous sizes and dont have the sharp ends of split or cotter pins.

But no method of positive retention; just reliant on compression and friction fit.

I wouldn't use them to secure standing rigging.